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The Florists^ Review J'^""*! i»i« 



will ripen their wood much earlier, as 

 in the case of pot-grown rambler roses. 

 Give the hydrangeas rich soil, keep 

 them constantly cultivated and pot or 

 tub them before the fall frosts are suf- 

 ficiently severe to blacken the leaves. 

 Any unsold plants, if cut back and 

 planted out, will make strong plants fit 

 for large pots or tubs before fall. 



Tuberous-Booted Begonias. 



For bedding out, tuberous-rooted be- 

 gonias are good when they can have a 

 fair portion of shade. It is, however, 

 of no use to plant them in the full 

 sun. If you are bound to have be- 

 gonias, be sure to use the fibrous-rooted 

 section, such varieties as Vernon, 

 Erfordii and Gloire de Chatelaine. Ee- 

 markably fine tuberous begonias may 

 be had outdoors if they have the needed 

 shade and are given a mulch of old 

 hotbed or mushroom manure and an 

 occasional soaking of water. It is, 

 however, as pot plants that these be- 

 gonias are of special value for the next 

 three or four months. 



They need an ordinary, well ven- 

 tilated greenhouse where they have 

 sufficient shade to prevent burning. 

 They will keep green and fresh under 

 heavy shade, but will be much weaker 

 and the flowers will lack substance. 

 Use a light but rich compost for them 

 and apply liquid manure freely when 



they become potbound. Seedlings 

 started in February, if kept potted 

 along, will make useful plants in 5-inch 

 or 6-inch pots by the end of July. 



Hardy Boses. 



Attend to the necessary disbudding 

 of hardy roses in good season. It means 

 much finer flowers. Green aphis will 

 make its appearance along with th6 

 flower buds and must be fought with a 

 soap or nicotine spray. For rose slugs 

 it is best' not to use arsenate of lead, 

 as it whitens and disfigures the foliage. 

 White hellebore, applied by means of a 

 powder bellows, while dew is on the 

 plants, serves well, and on dry foliage 

 it can be applied in liquid form. Look 

 out for any Manetti and briar stocks 

 starting from below the ground, or they 

 will soon cripple the plants. Ii you use 

 own-root roses you are all right. Un- 

 fortunately for those in the colder 

 states, own-root roses are lacking in 

 both vigor and hardiness compared with 

 budded stock. A top-dressing of^ dried 

 blood hoed in at this time will be 

 found beneficial. 



Amaryllis. 



The flowering season for amaryllis 

 passed some time ago. That too often 

 means that the plants will get little 

 attention during the remainder of the 

 season. Some growers even lay them 



on their sides immediately after flow- 

 ering. This is absolutely wrong. The 

 plants should now be growing vigor- 

 ously in a greenhouse and should be 

 encouraged by a top-dressing of Clay's 

 or a soaking of liquid manure. After 

 June 1, if you need the greenhouse for 

 some other purpose, plunge the amaryl- 

 lis in an old coldframe, packing half 

 decayed leaves about them, and keep 

 the sashes elevated at the top and bot- 

 tom all the time. They will need a 

 hosing each day, but if the plants are 

 well plunged and the sashes are shaded 

 water will not be necessary nearly so 

 often as when in the greenhouse. Keep 

 the seedlings growing along; they 

 should have no rest until they flower. 



Nerines. 



The foliage on tl 

 Guernsey lilies, is now turning yellow 

 and the plants need not have any more 

 water until fall. Keep ijae plants under 

 sashes and do not alloliF^hem to have 

 any water whatsoever. What they 

 need in order to make them flower sat- 

 isfactorily is a thorough baking in the 

 sun all summer long. This may be 

 done on a greenhouse shelf, in a cold- 

 frame or, if preferred, outdoors, lay- 

 ing the plants on their sides on boards 

 in a hot, sunny location. They need 

 no further attention until spikes ap- 

 pear next September or October. 



HABDY CHBYSANTHEMUMS. 



fA paper by Chas. H. Totty, of Madison, N. J., 

 read at the first monthly fiower show held In 

 connection with the Country Life Permanent Ex- 

 poeltion, in the Grand Central Terminal build- 

 ing. New York City.] 



To the average lay mind, the term 

 * ' outdoor mums, ' ' until a recent period, 

 simply meant one thing, hardy pompons, 

 and while it is true that the pompons 

 are hardy enough, still the fact that 

 they do not bloom until so late mili- 

 tates considerably against their being 

 of much value to the cultivator, since 

 the foliage is often badly marked by 

 frost and cold winds before the flowers 

 develop. 



The type of pl£*nt called early-flower- 

 ing, which has been largely developed 

 by August Nonin, of Paris, France, is 

 by far the most satisfactory for grow- 

 ing outdoors, and unless the situation 

 in which they are growing is too low 

 or exposed, they will come through the 

 average winter safely enough. This 

 early-flowering type, on which Mr. No- 

 nin has spent the best years of his life, 

 is a result of a strain of seedlings from 

 the old, ragged, hardy mums of our 

 grandmothers' gardens. The latter did 

 not have much beauty, but everyone ad- 

 mired their sturdy independence and 

 the fact that from year to year their 

 blooms braved the heavy rains and not 

 infrequently the early winter snows. 

 Their period of flowering is from Sep- 

 tember 15 to October 30. 



Good Early-Flowering Varieties. 



The number of varieties today of this 

 early-flowering type is legion, but a 

 dozen or so that I would suggest as be- 

 ing the most likely to give satisfaction 

 outdoors would be about as follows: 



White — Cranf ord White, Dorothy, 

 Milka and Normandie. Normandie is 

 often classed as a delicate shade of 

 pink, but as a matter of fact the earlier 

 flowers are almost invariably white. 

 Normandie is the earliest variety we 

 have and, under average conditions, the 

 most satisfactory of this type. Yellow 

 — Cranf ordia, Etoile d'Or, Carrie and 

 October Gold. Pink — Beaurepaire, Eden, 

 Le Danube and Miss Burchfell. Bed 

 and bronze shades — Harvest Home, 

 Firelight, A. Barham and Billancourt. 



There are many more excellent vari- 

 eties, but, as before stated, I am mere- 

 ly mentioning the best and earliest for 

 those who want to trim their list down 

 to a few varieties. 



Hardy Pompons. 



Hardy pompons are the type most 

 largely grown for outdoor flowering and 

 are valuable if one secures the right 

 varieties. By the right varieties I 

 mean those that will flower early enough 

 outdoors to develop perfectly before 

 the weather gets too cold. 



The best of all the pompons is the 

 variety Lillian Doty, a large-flowered 



pink which we introduced to the trade 

 in 1912, and which will make stems four 

 feet long. The color is delightful, 

 whether it is grown under glass or out- 

 doors, being the clearest bright pink 

 imaginable. The individual flowers meas- 

 ure approxiriiately two inches across, 

 and every stem will carry four to eight 

 of these flowers. » 



A list of twelve or more of the best 

 varieties of pompons, in assorted colors, 

 would be about as follows: 



Pink — Lillian Doty, Donald and Min- 

 ta. White — Queen of the Whites, Wa- 

 co, Grace and Myers' Perfection. We 

 might also include in this white section 

 the variety Garza. This is really an 

 anemone-flowered sort, but I am assured 

 by one of my customers, who has a sum- 

 mer home along the Jersey coast, that 

 it is entirely hardy and has bloomed at 

 her place year after year until Decem- 

 ber 1. Yellow — Jeanette, Wm. Sabey, 

 Golden Climax and Zenobia. Crimson 

 and bronze sorts — Julia Lagravere, 

 Urith, Tiber, etc. 



Pompons That Bloom Too Late. 



In addition to the varieties men- 

 tioned, there are many others that are 

 exceedingly beautiful and are well 

 known, such as Baby Margaret, a love- 

 ly white, and Baby, the tiniest yellow, 

 variety known, but I have omitted them 

 from the foregoing list of outdoor chry- 



