Adqost 10, 1916/- '-':«^^^"''''^-^^'^-"^ 



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The Fbtists' Review 



15 



been in commerce about thirty years, 

 I have not noticed any weakening in its 

 constitution. Possibly your Poitevine 

 plants were in a too rich soil. I would 

 advise you to hold your stock, if it is 

 healthy, and would suggest that you 

 use less rotted manure in the soil for 

 Poitevine than for other varieties, as 

 likely to make it flower more freely. 



The following varieties are good com- 

 mercially: Berthe de Presilly, light 

 rose-pink; Mme. Jaulin, peach-pink; 

 Mrs. Lawrence, bright salfiion-pink ; 

 Mme. Landry, salmon-apricot. If you 

 have not grown these varieties I would 

 suggest that you try one or two of each 

 in order to see which would fill your 

 requirements best. C. W. 



kerosene emulsion, Aphine or one of 

 the nioctine extracts. C. W. 



cutting back one-third and even one- 

 half may be desirable. This also ap- 

 plies to any tall, unbranched shoots, 

 which should be brought down to the 

 height of the other shoots. T. 



THBIPS ON ROSES. 



I am sending a few leaves from my 

 rose bushes and should like to have 

 you tell me what is discoloring them 

 and how to treat them. 



W. S. E.— Fla. 



The leaves have been badly attacked 

 by thrips. Keep the plants as well 

 watered as possible and use the hose on 

 them freely, or, if that is not at your 

 command, a force pump will answer. A 

 good remedy for thrips is as follows: 

 Mix thoroughly five pounds of brown 

 sugar and one pound of Paris green. 

 Use three ounces of the mixture in a 

 3-gallon can of water and use as a 

 spray late in the afternoon. To pre- 

 vent danger of burning the foliage, 

 spray well with cold water the next 

 morning. C. W. 



CUTTING BACK ROSE PLANTS. 



I have been trying to put my roses to 

 sleep, but they seem to be growing 

 faster than ever before. I keep the 

 buds pricked off as fast as they appear. 

 Now I wish to know how to cut Killar- 

 ney roses back after the resting process. 

 You will notice that I am located in 

 the extreme south of Georgia. I have 

 been in the florists' business only a lit- 

 tle over a year, but am succeeding fine- 

 ly on the whole and my success is due 

 largely to The Review. 



M. N. T. P.— Ga. 



So much depends upon the size and 

 condition of the plants that no really 

 definite advice can be given regarding 

 the pruning of roses without examining 

 the plants themselves. 



In a general way, I would advise cut- 

 ting away some of the weaker shoots 

 and heading back the branches upon the 

 others, leaving from two to four buds 

 upon each branch. In case there are 

 numerous branches, some of the weaker 

 ones might be removed. The shoots 

 themselves should also be headed back, 

 but to what extent cannot be definitely 

 stated. If the plants are quite high 

 and the lower branches are numerous, 



REMEDY FOR ROSE THRIPS 



I am enclosing a few leaves taken 

 from rose plants grown outdoors. The 

 plants have what commonly is called 

 "curly leaves." Please advise me of 

 the nature of the disease or insect that 

 produces this condition and what the 

 remedy is. G. D. — Fla. 



THRIPS ON OUTDOOR ROSES. 



Our outdoor rose plants are full of 

 thrips and I have sprayed them quite 

 often, but with no success. The roses 

 are planted in a field for summer cut. 

 The varieties are Maman Cochet and 

 Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. The thrips 

 seem to be getting worse. I have 

 sprayed them with sulphate of nicotine 

 and free nicotine, forty to sixty. W© 

 have the Skinner watering pipes over 

 them. Would it be advisable not to use 

 these on the days we spray? I would 

 appreciate any information that would 

 help me to get rid of the thrips. 



P. H.— O. 



Keep the roses well supplied with 

 water and freely syringed. On the days 

 you spray, it certainly would be much 

 better not to use the sprinkler system. 

 I would suggest that you try the fol- 

 lowing spray for thrips, whi;bh has 

 proven successful: Thoroughly mix five 

 pounds of brown sugar and one pound 

 of Paris green. Use two ounces of this 

 mixture in two gallons of water as a 

 spray, applying it in the evening. If 

 it is clear on the morning following 

 the spraying, syringe the roses with 

 cold water to prevent 'any danger of 

 burning. ' C. W. 



THIS LOBELIA WELL KNOWN. 



I have a dwarf white lobelia. Will 

 you kindly let me know if it is a new 

 plant? I have never seen it advertised. 



C. E. M.— Wash. 



The foliage had been attacked by 

 thrips. This occurs when rose plants 

 are too dry at the roots and when the 

 atmosphere also is dry. As a remedy 

 supply the- plants with water at the 

 roots. Use water from the hose at a 

 good pressure, directing it below the 

 leaves, and spray the plants with a 



A white form of Lobelia speciosa, 

 which is of dwarf habit, has been in 

 'cultivation for many years. The variety 

 is variously listed as speciosa alba. 

 White Gem, White Lady, White Perfec- 

 tion, etc., but all are practically the 

 same dwarf white lobelia. C. W. 



FERTILIZER FOR SWEET PEAS. 



Will you kindly tell us in what pro- 

 portion to use blood and bone in pre- 

 paring soil for sweet peas for winter 

 blooming in the greenhouse? 



H. J. V. & S.— 0. 



I never have used blood in preparing 

 soil for sweet peas, either under glass 

 or outdoors. One or two acquaintances 

 who have used it had unsatisfactory 

 results. If used at all, it should not be 

 mixed with the soil but applied in the 

 form of a light top-dressing when the 

 plants show the need of some stimulant. 

 I would greatly prefer, however, to use 

 cow or sheep manure, either in liquid 



form or as a top-dressing, as being 

 much safer and more certain to give 

 satisfactory results. 



Cow manure, well decayed, cannot be 

 beaten as a fertilizer to mix with sweet 

 pea soil. Where this is unobtainable, 

 sheep manure, applied at the rate of 

 100 pounds per 500 square feet of bench 

 or bed space, with twenty-five pounds 

 of fine bone, each thoroughly incor- 

 porated in the soil, will make a satis- 

 factory growing medium. Winter sweet 

 peas can be grown either in raised 

 benches or solid beds. The latter are 

 preferable and it is important that the 

 soil be worked over at least eighteen 

 inches deep and be well drained if you 

 want the best results. The plants will 



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