October 26, 1916. 



The Florists^ Review 15 



fourth dressing, and set the plants 

 about 12x12 or 12x14, remembering 

 that a seedling plant of Silver Pink 

 does big business and requires room. 

 If the walks are narrow, set the first 

 row six or more inches from the side 

 of the bed, to allow for spread of 



Slants. Avoid setting the plants deep, 

 leep them growing by cultivation and 

 moisture, giving all the air possible at 

 all times. During the flowering season 

 use light feeds of well-rotted or liquid 

 manure, but be careful not to overdo. 

 The temperature should be run at 50 

 degrees. When the plants have made 

 six inches of growth, put up support- 

 ers. We prefer wires at each side of 

 the row, eight, eighteen and thirty 

 inches high, with cross strings every 

 four inches. Whatever method is used, 

 attend to it at once. Straight stems 

 are wanted; besides, supports let in air 

 and light. 



"Eegarding the kind of bench, there 

 is no difference between solid and 

 raised benches, providing the solid 

 beds have drainage. Allow four feet 

 or more of head room, to avoid draw- 

 ing the plants. Attend to fumigating 

 or spraying at least once every three 

 weeks. Green fly is the worst enemy. 

 If tobacco dust is used for fumigating, 

 go lightly to avoid scorching. 



When to Sow. 



"The following dates are taken 

 from our records; they may vary in 

 different latitudes: For fall blossoms 

 sow the seed in April and May. For 

 late winter sow the seed in July and 

 August, and continue until Christmas 

 for crops until Memorial day. For a 

 special Memorial crop we sow the seed 

 the flrst week in September. Plants 

 beginning to flower in February or 

 later will continue in profitable crop 

 until July. Blossoms at Christmas are 

 hard to get from any variety, due to 

 dull weather and short days. You can 

 come nearest to it by experimenting 

 with the temperature and the date of 

 sowing the seed. Additional profit can 

 be had by letting one flower spike on 

 each plant remain until several seed 

 pods form. Then cut the head down 

 above the side shoots and in a short 

 time the spike will carry a dozen or 

 more nice flowers on short, wiry stems, 

 which are fine for bouquet or spray 

 work. A little experimenting will 

 greatly increase your profits. 



Germination of the Seed. 



"Regarding the number of plants to 

 be had from a packet of seed, much 

 will depend upon the success of the 

 grower. We have had reports of as 

 many as 800 plants from a packet, 

 while others have had poor results. 

 Seed of Silver Pink should be saved 

 from plants of the original stock, prop- 

 agated from cuttings. The seed from 

 seedling plants would be worthless. 

 Make a careful test of the seed by 

 placing a few between the folds of 

 damp cotton or a cloth and note the 

 germination. In the event of failure 

 when sowing the seed, this will help 

 you to find the cause. 



"There are two chief reasons for 

 failure in starting small seeds; namely, 

 covering too deeply and insufficient 

 moisture. The covering of soil on the 

 seed should be extremely light. Should 

 you fail from too deep covering of the 

 seed, scratch the soil, keeping it moist, 

 and some results may yet be obtained. 

 We beg to cite one instance occurring 



G. S. Ramsbtirg. 



on our place. A new man was directed 

 to sow seed in four large flats. No 

 plants came, and upon examination the 

 seeds were found to be covered one- 

 eighth of an inch deep. The soil was 

 scratched and good results followed. 

 In the next lot, properly sowed, one 

 flat gave us over 5,000 plants. The 

 matter of covering is most important. 

 ' Depth of seed, ' is a safe rule. 



' ' After May 1, blossoming plants 

 should be kept shaded. This is im- 

 portant, as are also a cool, airy temper- 

 ature and plenty of moisture at the 

 roots. ' ' 



THE NIMBODS. 



For several years Wallace R. Pier- 

 son, of Cromwell, Conn., and Roman J. 

 Irwin, of New York, have been mak- 

 ing pilgrimages to the north during the 

 hunting season. This year they went 

 to New Brunswick and have just re- 

 turned with many evidences of their 

 prowess with the gun and rod, includ- 

 ing the two photographs reproduced 



herewith, showing that each got hia 

 moose. The stuffed heads soon will 

 adorn their office walls. 



SOIL FOB DUTCH BULBS. 



On page 12 of The Review of August 

 31 there is an article on "How to Care 

 for Bulbs." There is one point not 

 taken up, on which I would like to be 

 informed. What kind of soil is best 

 for potting Dutch bulbs and how should 

 the soil be prepared. B. V. N. — Cal. 



Use two-thirds well decayed fibrous 

 loam, one-third well rotted and dried 

 cow or horse manure and some sharp 

 sand. The sand is of the most benefit 

 if your soil is heavy. Fine charcoal 

 also will help such soil. If rotted ma- 

 nure is unprocurable, use spent hotbed 

 or mushroom manure, or even pulver- 

 ized sheep manure, but do not use chem- 

 ical manures in any form. Mix the 

 compost at once for Dutch bulbs. 



C. W. 



The Trade's Nimrods, R. J. Irwin and W. R. Pierson, with Their Trophies. 





