22 



The Florists' Review 



Fbbruauv 8, 1917. 



Assuming our pots or benches are well 

 filled with roots, let us consider how we 

 should nourish our plants. We are all 

 aware that the chrysanthemum is a 

 gross feeder and yet we realize this can 

 be overdone. It is not of so great im- 

 portance what kind of material we use 

 in supplying nutriment, as is the knowl- 

 edge to use what we have at our dis- 

 posal to the best advantage, provided, 

 of course, it is a well balanced food; 

 that is to say, it contains the three im- 

 portant elements, namely, nitrogen, pot- 

 ash and phosphoric acid. It is rational 

 to confine our acts within certain limits 

 when dealing with plants, the same as 

 are applied in promoting health in ani- 

 mal life. 



Superabundance of nutrition is not 

 usually manifest until a breakdown oc- 

 curs, or until the change is so radical 

 as to cause apprehension. It is easy to 

 overdo; in fact, it is difficult to let well 

 enough alone, when ardent desires to ex- 

 cel pervade the minds of all devoted 

 growers. With this in mind, let us be 

 careful, and whatever we apply, see to 

 it that it is sufficiently diluted, as it is 

 much safer to give nourishment at 

 shorter intervals, if they appear in need, 

 than to give too much at one time, par- 

 ticularly during the period of growth. 



The rankest growing plants do not 

 usually produce the most perfect blooms. 

 Our object should be a good, healthy 

 growth, with firm wood and with foliage 

 that is tough and leathery, rather than 

 brittle. Soft growth is to be guarded 

 against, as they must have well ripened 

 wood to receive the maximum benefit. 

 Our products are not wrought mechan- 

 ically; hence we cannot turn them out 

 to any exact size by a precise rule. The 

 only index we have is the plants' ap- 

 pearance, so that our knowledge of their 

 requirements is only gained by close ob- 

 servation through years of experience 

 and such experience cannot be imparted 

 literally to others, but must be gained 

 by diligence. 



Effects of Climatic Conditions. 



The quality of the 1917 crops is veiled 

 with uncertainty. They may surpass 

 those of former years, or be inferior to 

 those of the last season. Climatic con- 

 ditions have wonderful effects, and the 

 grower may not fully realize the conse- 

 quences when the weather is unusual 

 and severe — be it drought, rain, heat or 

 cold. These conditions, either favorable 

 or adverse, we must accept as nature 

 dictates, if not to our liking. At best, 

 we can do no more than to try to modify 

 them, as far as possible, by considering 

 the relation of temperature, air and 

 moisture to the radical state confronting 

 us. It is not simply because it is the 

 month of August that our plants pro- 

 duce buds, but the budding is also due 

 to the change which takes place in them, 

 contingent with the condition of the 

 atmosphere. Cool nights early in the 

 season are conducive to early buds, and 

 the reverse to late maturity, or buds. 



No allusion has been made to speci- 

 men plants, inasmuch as most growers 

 do not attempt this specific branch of 

 chrysanthemum culture. Those who are 

 interested, and who are members of the 

 Chrysanthemum Society of America, will 

 find in the 3914 report an exhaustive 

 paper on this subject by J. Canning. 



Where Bench Space Is Limited. 



There may be some of you who would 

 like to take a hand in growing exhibi- 



tion blooms, either for the coming show 

 or for window displays, and have only 

 limited space to devote. To such, I 

 would recommend the varieties that per- 

 fect good blooms from the later buds; 

 for example, such kinds as Odessa, 

 Elberon, Adonis, Calumet, Nerissa, 

 Nakota, Wm. Turner and its yellow 

 sport. These will all come good from 

 buds selected August 25 to September 

 5, producing a much higher percentage 

 of perfect flowers than it is possible to 

 grow from kinds requiring buds August 

 1, and the undertaking is less hazardous 

 and perplexing. 



In conclusion I wish it understood 



that these deductions, especially those 

 referring to dates of buds, are intended 

 for the middle west, and in no way are 

 applicable to those located at a high 

 altitude, or on the Atlantic and Pacific 

 coasts, where conditions are nearer nor- 

 mal than with us. Buds may appear in 

 Cleveland earlier than 200 miles distant, 

 depending upon the conditions existing 

 where they are grown. 



In thanking you for your attention, I 

 extend to those who take up this inter- 

 esting feature of chrysanthemum cul- 

 ture my desire that the fullest reward 

 be yours, and the results of 1917 surpass 

 your fondest hopes. 



SEASONABLE NOTES. 



Care of Cattleyas. 



During the cold winter months it 

 should be possible to find time to look 

 over many of the cattleya plants and 

 sponge them with a good insecticide, 

 such as fir tree oil, Aphine or some re- 

 liable soap spray. Use a stiff brush to 

 clean out scale which may be lurking 

 near the base of old flower sheaths. A 

 sponging makes the plants look much 

 more presentable, but, if time will not 

 permit this, use a force pump and spray 

 the plants which are not in flower or bud 

 with an insecticide, being sure to use 

 a nozzle which throws a fine, misty 

 spray. Cypripediums have less tough 

 leaves than cattleyas and sponging is 

 recommended for them. 



If Cattleya labiata has not yet been 

 potted over, lose no time in overhauling 

 the plants. It is too late once the roots 

 are being freely produced. Early plants 

 of C. Trianffi can also be repotted or re- 

 surfaced now, taking the later flowering 

 plants as time will permit. C. Perci- 

 valiana should be repotted at once. Of 

 course only a certain proportion will 

 need potting, but any with roots and 

 growths hanging over the sides of the 

 pots or baskets need attention. Some 

 growers think it a mighty fine thing to 

 see roots hanging over the sides of cat- 

 tleya pots. As a matter of fact, it is 

 just the reverse. If the roots are not in 

 the compost, where they can get some 

 food, the growths are sure to be weak 

 and puny. 



Compost for Repotting. 



Good fern fiber, with the finer par- 

 ticles shaken out, is the best compost 

 for cattleyas. Cut it up in square pieces 

 and when potting be sure to firm the 

 plants thoroughly. No loosely potted 

 cattleyas, or, for that matter, any other 

 orchids, will thrive. Use ample drainage 

 in all pots. For this purpose coarse 



pieces of fern fiber will answer almost 

 as well as crocks, I have used oyster 

 shells for cattleyas. There may be a lit- 

 tle food in them; at all events, the cat- 

 tleya roots fasten themselves upon them 

 in great shape. 



We shall still have a good deal of cold, 

 dark weather and watering must be 

 carefully done. Particularly is this true 

 of newly potted stock. An occasional 

 light spraying on clear days will be 

 found helpful, however, and will pro- 

 vide the plants with about all needed 

 moisture. At this season our plants are 

 watered once in five or six days on the 

 average. It is safer to run them on the 

 dry side rather than the reverse. Use 

 liquid manure sparingly at this sea- 

 son. It does no harm to give occasional 

 weak doses to plants in active growth, 

 but caution is necessary at this season. 



Shade and Temperature. 



Cattleyas need little or no shade in 

 midwinter. A good sunning is a benefit 

 to them. Never mind if it temporarily 

 turns the foliage a trifle yellow; it will 

 make them break more strongly. As 

 February advances, the sun will at times 

 become quite strong and a light shading 

 will become necessary. Happy are those 

 who Ci.n afford movable lath shading. 

 It is the ideal shade for orchids. They 

 can then have all possible light in dark 

 weather. 



Do not try to run a high night tem- 

 perature. I would much rather have the 

 cattleya house at 50 degrees than 60 

 degrees on cold mornings, and 55 degrees 

 is sufficient as a minimum on milder 

 nights. Even on extremely cold days 

 some top ventilation can be given for a 

 few hours, and where ventilation is pro- 

 vided below the side stages a little can 

 be left on during mild nights, even in 

 midwinter. Do not coddle cattleyas, or 

 they will resent it. They like plenty of 

 fresh air, and conditions favorable to 

 the growth of dendrobiums, calanthes, 

 cypripediums and phalsenopsis are far 

 from congenial to cattleyas. 



