August 14, 1010. 



The Rorists^ Review 



21 



preciate any information you can give 

 us to help us get rid of this trouble. 

 W. H. H.— Minn. 



BEETLES ON BOSE BXTDS. 



In a small receptacle I am sending 

 specimens of a beetle or bug infesting 

 our roses, and doing much damage to 

 buds and tender foliage. Can you in- 

 form us what it is, and what is the best 

 method of combating it? 



G. A. K.— Mo. 



The best means of fighting the beetles 

 is spraying with arsenate of lead solu- 

 tion. This insecticide may be obtained 

 as a paste, which is the most convenient 

 form of using it. Dissolve the paste ac- 

 cording to directions, stir well, then add 

 enough granulated sugar or syrup to 

 make it sweet to the beetles' taste and 

 cause the solution to stick to the stem 

 and foliage of the plants. The best 

 time to spray the plants is in the cool 

 of the evening. Bepeat every day or 

 two until the beetles disappear. 



The beetle sent is identically the same 

 as one received from a grower in an 

 eastern state who is having trouble with 

 it on his pansy plants. It is evident 

 that this is another addition to the pests 

 with which growers have to contend, 

 and it would be a good plan for you to 

 send a few specimens to the S. A. F, 

 entomoV)gist, Prof. H. C. Irish, St. Louis, 

 'Mo., and get his opinion regarding it. 



As a further means of getting rid of 

 the beetles, I would advise that you go 

 over the surface of your rose beds, and 

 if there are any rough or uneven places 

 in the soil, level them off, being partic- 

 ular to remove any loose material from 

 around the stem of each plant. Then 

 take a brick or pounder of some kind, 

 and pound down the soil, taking care to 

 see that it is thoroughly done at the 

 edge of the bed, where the soil is liable 

 to crack away from the side bench 

 boards. Then take some bait made of 

 ground oats, granulated sugar and Paris 

 green, and lay a small portion on cab- 

 bage leaves, and place one about every 

 six feet about the bed. M. P. 



BOSE PLANTS DYING. 



We are sending you by parcel post 

 several of our rose plants. These are 

 from a section from which we took out 

 only part of the soil, leaving in the rose 

 plants, and refilled with new soil and a 

 coat of well rotted sheep manure. This 

 was done about two. weeks ago and at 

 the present time a number of our rose 

 plants are dying. They seem to decay 

 right at the surface. The roots are ap- 

 parently in good condition. We shall ap- 



From the appearance of the rose 

 plants it seems that these plants were 

 rested too long, causing the stems to 

 become hard and dry, or the water was 

 held off too suddenly. In either case, 

 if watering is not watched closely, the 

 plants, after starting again, are apt to 

 turn black at the bottom and the sap 

 will stop flowing, causing the plants to 

 die. Using sheep manure at the time 

 of starting the dormant plants may have 

 made matters worse, as the manure con- 

 tains much ammonia and releases it 

 faster than the plants can absorb it. 

 This will also cause the stems to turn 

 black. Last summer, when florists were 

 restricted to a fifty per cent coal supply, 

 we had several houses that were dry and 

 intended to let them stand idle. After 

 the fuel restriction was rescinded, we 

 started up these houses as fast as possi- 

 ble, but in one house of Wards, where 

 the plants had become exceedingly dry, 

 we found the same conditions as those 

 shown on your plants. We kept our 

 plants thoroughly wet and saved most of 

 them, aside from one row under the ven- 

 tilators. The plants in that row re- 

 ceived the dry wind directly and so 

 hard that we lost nearly all of them. 



I suggest that these plants be given 

 extra watering to keep the sap flowing 

 and to prevent them from absorbing too 

 much of the ammonia contained in the 

 sheep manure. As the roots seem in 

 good condition, the plants should pull 

 through all right. W. J. K. 



STOBING BULBS AND BOOTS. 



What is the proper winter treatment 

 for gladioli, dahlias, cannas,, etc.t 



F. J. H.— Utah. 



As I understand the question, it is an 

 inquiry as to the best means of keeping 

 gladiolus bulbs and canna and dahlia 

 roots during the winter months. The 

 gladiolus bulbs should be lifted in the 

 early part of October, after the growth 

 has become well ripened. Do not re- 

 move any of the growth, but lift the 

 bulbs and place them in racks or flats 

 and store away in a place that is dry 

 and moderately cool. After a while 

 the growths will dry off and the bulbs 

 can be overhauled, sorted and returned 

 to the racks until time for spring plant- 

 ing. 



Not every greenhouse establishment 

 has a properly equipped cellar for stor- 

 ing the roots of cannas and dahlias; ao 

 use is made of one of the greenhouse 

 benches. Select a bench in a carnation 

 house where the steam does not have to 

 be turned on except in severe weather; 



lay some boards on the ground, upon 

 which to place the roots. After the first 

 showing of frost, late in September or 

 early in October, cut down the plants 

 to within four inches of the ground. 

 Then dig them up, leaving some soil on 

 the clumps to keep the roots from dry- 

 ing out too much while dormant. Setr- 

 them close together on the boards- bf" -**- 

 neath the bench. Scatter dry soil or—- 

 sand over them. Lift the roots befora-. 

 the ground outside becomes wet. 



The principal thing to watch out for 

 during the winter is to see that the roots 

 do not become too dry and shrivel np, 

 or get too wet from dripping when ths 

 bench above is watered. About Feb- 

 ruary 15 will be time enough to over- 

 haul the cannas, divide them up and 

 plant for another season. M. P. 



Mons Olsen. 



Mens Olsen, one of the oldest florists 

 of the city, died at his home, 5908 South 

 Green street, Chicago, 111., Monday, Au- 

 gust 11. Mr. Olsen was well known 

 throughout the city and came to this 

 country from Sweden about fifty years 

 ago. He was interested in flowers when 

 a child and it was only natural that he 

 should enter the business. 



The first Chicago firm that he worked 

 for was Beinberg Bros. He was there 

 for several years and then went with 

 E. H. Hunt. After many years' service 

 with that house he transferred to Poehl- 

 mann Bros. Co., remaining there for 

 seven years. He also was in the em- 

 ploy of J. A. Budlong for a short time. 

 Prior to his death he was not actively 

 in the business. 



Mr. Olsen was born April 9, 1859, and 

 so was 60 years old at the time of his 

 death. The funeral will be held at the 

 residence, at 2 p. m., August 15. 



John O. Thie& 



John C. Thies, who for many years' 

 did a large market gardening businesv 

 at Fredonia, N. Y., died July 31 at his 

 home on Terrace street. He had been. 

 failing in health for several months. He 

 was 67 years old. He had been a direc- 

 tor of the South Shore Growers' and 

 Shippers' Association and also served 

 for several terms as a village trustee. 



He is survived by his wife, one son, 

 two daughters, a sister and four broth- 

 ers. 



Michael Eischen. 



Michael Eischen, formerly in business 

 at Duluth, Minn., died at the Califor- 

 nia hospital, Los Angeles, July 31, at 2 

 a. m., following an operation. One op- 

 eration had been performed and it was 

 thought that Mr. Eischen would recover, 

 but complications set in which necessi- 

 tated another operation, which resulted 

 in his death. Mr. Eischen had been Hy- 

 ing in Montebello for a number of years, 

 where he conducted a grocery store and 

 a citrus ranch. 



George Eischen, his son, who has a 

 store at Ocean Park, Cal., has been tak- 

 ing care of his father's business since 

 he became ill several months ago. An- 

 otheifson, Oliver, is still Izi business at 

 Duluth, Minn. 



Michael Eischen was 70 years old.. 

 He was buried Saturday, August 2. 



