30 



The Florists^ Review 



Febhuaky 16. 1922 



exhibition and many more trade exhibits 

 than are now booked. Wo urge every 

 prospective exhibitor to bring here 

 everything he intended to show at 

 Cleveland, as we have fully as much 

 room here as would have been available 

 there and in a building which is as 

 well adapted to the purpose. We will 

 not be able to reproduce the gardens 

 that were distinctly local in character, 

 due to the shortness of the time for pre- 

 paring the necessary stock. That we 

 cannot help. 



Prospective exhibitors in the trades 

 display are reminded of the central lo- 

 cation of this city, which should mean 

 a large attendance of trade visitors. 

 The committee has made a lower rate, 

 for space, on account of the great 

 amount of space available. The oppor- 

 tunity for business here will be unlim- 

 ited and we urge you to make reserva- 

 tion of space with Secretary Young at 

 once. Unloading facilities for carload 

 shipments are unexcelled. Railroad 

 switching is within 500 feet of the 

 building. 



Your Hoosier craftsmen invite and 

 urge you to come. Remember the orig- 

 inal dates, March 25 to April 1. 



A. F. J. Baur. 



been infested so badly that not a per- 

 fect flower came on them; we started 

 the growing again in September and 

 the photograph on this page shows that 

 they are certainly not infested. Of 

 course, the flowers are much smaller on 

 kept-over plants, but the quantity helps 

 to make up for the loss in size. 



I have visited many places in this 

 country where cyclamens are grown and 

 have yet to find a place that has not 

 suffered loss through the mite. But i 

 visited places in England last summer 

 and, strange to say, the English grow- 

 ers do not know what it is. 



Why cannot our government experts 

 at Washington do a little experimenting 

 with the mite for the florists? 



S. F. Purllant. 



CYCLAMENS A SECOND YEAR. 



I have been much interested in all 

 the items that have appeared in The 

 Review of late in regard to cyclamen 

 mite; we ourselves have had consider- 

 able experience with the mite. I have 

 come to the conclusion that no one 

 knows about the pest. 



Wc have been bothered with it for 

 the last ten years. Some years it has 

 completely ruined our entire stock. We 

 have tried almost everything that is 

 known to kill bugs and have come to the 

 conclusion that the less one does the 

 better — within reason, of course. 



C. W. says that he would advise not 

 to keep over old bulbs, or corms, that 

 have been infested, as they would cer- 

 tainly be infested another year. For 

 our own knowledge and satisfaction, we 

 kept over about eighteen corms that had 



PLANTING DAHLIA 9BEIt. 



It should be borne in mind that dahl- 

 ias from seed flower the first season and 

 have as long a blooming period as those 

 from bulbs, provided the seeds are plant- 

 ed early; that is, March 1 in the house 

 and March 20 in the greenhouse. In 

 the latitude of New York they will 

 bloom before frost, even when planted 

 in the open about May 1, but the period 

 of blooms will be much shorter. 



My method is to plant the seeds in 

 flats in the greenhouse about March 25; 

 then I transplant them to the open 

 about May 10 to 15. I set the plants 

 about fourteen inches apart and thin 

 out any culls as they bloom, giving the 

 finest ones the room. The object of this 

 note is to correct the idea many people 

 have that it takes dahlias two or three 

 years to bloom from seed. 



George L. Stillman. 



COLORED LABELS. 



At the meeting of the American Car- 

 nation Society at Hartford, James 

 Wheeler, of Natick, Mass., offered a sug- 

 gestion regarding labels that will inter- 

 est a good many florists, particularly 

 those who employ foreigners who have 

 difficulty in reading English. His sug- 

 gestion was that wood labels, instead of 



being inscribed with the name of a va- 

 riety, be painted a certain color. A 

 chart on the wall of the packing shed 

 would tell what variety each color stood 

 for. If there were more varieties than 

 there were colors of paint, a bar of an- 

 other color could be painted on a certain 

 colored background, making the num- 

 ber of combinations almost infinite. He 

 had tried dipping the labels in dye in- 

 stead of painting them, but had found 

 that no two batches of dye of a certain 

 color came out the same shade. He be- 

 lieved, -therefore, that painting was 

 much the better way. The same system 

 might be applied to stakes in the field. 



TRANSPLANTINO ARDISIAS. 



We have some Ardisia crenulata in 

 4-inch pots. These plants are 2 years 

 old and are well potbound, but they have 

 not bloomed yet. What is the best time 

 to shift these plants in order to have 

 them ready by next Christmas? 



M. N.— N. C. 



Pot the ardisias at once and add some 

 fibrous peat, if you have it, to the com- 

 post, making the mixture about two- 

 thirds loam and one-third peat, with a 

 good dash of coarse sand and a little 

 old, well dried cow or sheep manure. 

 Pot firmly and place the plants in a 

 warm house. Spray them well until flow- 

 ers appear, after which this practice 

 should be discontinued or the fruit will 

 not set well. C. W. 



Cyclamea Plant Carrying Second Year's Growth. 



TROUBLE WITH HELIOTROPES. 



What is the best treatment for blight 



on heliotrope? On my plants the edges 



of the leaves turn brown and black. 



In some cases I find holes in the leaves. 



H. E. C— O. 



Probably you are keeping your helio- 

 tropes too cool. They need in winter 

 and spring a temperature of 55 to 60 

 degrees at night, for best results. 

 If the temperature is below 50 degrees 

 at night, you are sure to have trouble 

 at this season. Later on, as we get 

 warm weather, the trouble will disap- 

 pear. Also do not fumigate heliotropes 

 heavily. They are especially suscepti- 

 ble to injury when tobacco stems are 

 burned. Use one of the tobacco pa- 

 pers. c. W. 



PROPAGATING HYDRANGEAS. 



What is the correct temperature for 

 a propagating house where young hy- 

 drangeas are growing? I am a begin- 

 ner and have been given conflicting in- 

 formation on this subject. G. B. — O. 



In estimating the temperature re- 

 quired in a propagating house, much de- 

 pends upon the class of plants you in- 

 tend to grow there. Geraniums, fuch- 

 sias, chrysanthemums, hydrangeas, petu- 

 nias, alyssum, ageratum, lobelias, genis- 

 tas, ericas, English ivies and many other 

 plants would do best when a tempera- 

 ture of 50 degrees at night is applied, 

 with the sand kept at about 60 degrees. 

 On the other hand, alternantheras, cro- 

 tons, achryanthes, dracanas, acalyphas 

 and other warmth-loving subjects would 

 prefer a top heat of 60 degrees and a 

 bottom heat of from 10 to 15 degrees 

 higher. On the whole, I think the latter 

 tigure would suit most of your propa- 

 gating needs best. Could you not put a 

 division in the house and keep a small 

 section warmer for those cuttings >vhich 

 need more heat? q \ 



