Apbil 28, 1921 



The Florists^ Review 



41 



d 



BOSES FOB NEW ENGI^AND. 



The following list of roses suitable 

 for growing in New England was given 

 by W. N. Craig in his lecture before the 

 American Eose Society at Boston, April 

 9. Those with the greatest number of 

 stars have proved the most reliable and 

 those with a circle need more protection 

 than the others. 



Hybrid Ferpetuals or Remontants. 

 • ••Frau Karl Druschki. 

 •♦•Mrs. K. G. Sharman-Crawford. 

 •George Arends. 

 ••Prince CamlUe de Rohan. 

 ••Mme. Gabriel Luizet. 

 ••Alfred Colomb. 

 •Baroness Rotbscliild. 

 •••Mrs. John Laing. 

 ••John Hopper. 

 ••Paul Neyron. 

 •••Magna Charta. 

 •••Ulrich Brunner. 

 •Coronation. 

 •Baron de Bonstetten. 



Hybrid Tea*. White. 

 •••Double White Klllamey. 

 ••Kaiserln Augusta Victoria. 

 •Bessie Brown. 



Yellow, Saffron or Copper. 

 ••Lady Pirrie. 

 •••Mrs. Aaron Ward. 

 ••*Ix>e Angeles. 

 ••Mme. Edouard Herriot. 

 ••Duchess of Wellington. 

 ••Sunburst. 

 •Lyon Hose. 



Pink and Bose Shade*. 

 •••Kadlance. 

 ••Jonkheer J. L. Mock. 

 ••Wlllowmere. 



•Pharlsaer. 

 •••Ophelia. 

 •Mme. Segond Weber. 

 •Lady Ashtown. 

 •••Lady Alice Stanley. 



•Cynthia Forde. 

 •••Mme. Le<» Pain. 

 •••Klllamey. 



•Dorothy Page Roberts. 

 ••Mme. Abel Chatenay. 



Hybrid Teas, Beda, 

 •••Grass an Tepllti. 

 ••General MacArthur. 

 •Chateau de Clos Vongeot. 

 •••Red Radiance. 

 ••Richmond. 



Folyanthas and Baby Bamblen. 

 ••Clothilde Soupert. 



"George Blger. 

 •••Yvonne Rablcr. 

 •••Brna Teschendorff. 

 ••Mrs. Cutbush. 

 °Mme. Cecile Brtinner. 

 •••Dwarf Tausendschoen. 



Bamblers and Climbers. 

 •••Dorothy Perkins. 

 •••White Dorothy Perkins. 

 •••Silver Moon. 

 •Leuchtstern. 

 ••American Pillar. 

 •°GIoire de Dijon. 

 ••Carmine Pillar. 

 ••Lady Gay. 

 •••°P. W. Van Fleet. 

 ••"Paul's Scarlet Climber. 

 ••Hiawatha. 

 • • ♦Tausendschoen. 

 •Excelsa 

 •"Christine Wright. 



Species of Boses, 

 ••Rosa damascena, the damask rose. 

 ••Rosa cinnamomea, cinnamon rose. 

 •••Rosa spinosissima, var. altaica, Scotch rose. 

 •••Rosa Hngonis, Father Hugo's rose. 



••Kosa Wlchuraiana, memorial rose. 



••Rosa moschata, musk rose. 



••Rosa arvensis, var. capreolata, Ayreshlre 



rose. 

 •••Rosa setlgera, prairie rose. 

 ••Rosa rubiginosa, sweet briar. 

 •••Rosa multiflora. 



Miscellaneous Boses. 

 •••Persian Yellow. 

 •Austrian Copper. 

 •••Conrad Ferdinand Meyer. 

 •Rugosa Alba. 

 ••Blanche Monsau. 

 •••Mme. Plantier. 

 •JuUet. 



Many good roses, including Columbia, 

 Premier and others which are popular 

 for forcing, said Mr. Craig, have still to 

 prove their hardiness in New England. 

 Some of these will undoubtedly prove 

 hardy, but as yet sufficient time has not 

 elapsed to give them a proper tryout. 



COMSATINO BOSE MIDGE. 



The rose midge, Dasyneura rhodo- 

 phaga Coq., is a most destructive insect, 



which has caused heavy losses for some 

 rose growers. 



The midge is 2-winged and closely 

 related to the chrysanthemum midge. 

 The female deposits her minute yellow- 

 ish eggs between the folded leaves of 

 the leaf buds or beneath the sepals of 

 the flower buds. The maggots hatch 

 in about two days and at once feed 

 upon the tender tissues of shoots and 

 buds. They become mature in from 

 five to seven days and then leave the 

 plants, dropping to the soil, where they 

 change to the pupal state. EoUowing 

 his studies in Ontario greenhouses, W. 

 A. Eoss, of the Canadian department 

 of agriculture, states in an article pub- 

 lished recently in the Agricultural Ga- 

 zette of Canada that "the midge is 

 most abundant and destructive during 

 summer. With the coming of autumn 

 it declines in numbers and by Novem- 

 ber wholly disappears from the rose 

 plants. It remains dormant in the soil 

 throughout the cold winter months and 

 does not reappear until early March." 



The following method of control has 

 given, success in the United States: 

 Tobacco dust is distributed evenly over 

 the beds, from one-fourth inch to one- 

 half inch thick, to prevent the falling- 

 larvae from entering the soil, followed 

 by nightly fumigations with tobacco 

 paper, as long as adults are seen. As 

 an additional precaution all walks are 

 sprayed with a five per cent kerosene 

 emulsion to kill any larvae which might 

 have fallen from the plants to the 

 walks. 



SOIL FOB CABNATIONS. 



Please answer a question in regard 

 to some carnation soil which is to be 

 taken into the greenhouse next fall for 

 planting. I have some horse manure 

 that was used for a hotbed last spring. 

 This spring I placed it in one big pile. 

 About forty per cent of it is fine wood 

 shavings. The manure itself is well 

 rotted, but the shavings are not. Would 

 the shavings do any damage to the 

 growth of the carnations? I noticed 

 that this manure contains a great num- 

 ber of angleworms. What can I do to 

 get rid of the worms? My intention is 

 to turn this manure, putting air-slaked 

 lime with it and also adding bone and 

 blood. Would you advise doing this? 



H. C. A.— 111. 



The manure in question would be far 

 from ideal for the purpose mentioned. 

 If you can get stable manure that is 

 slightly rotted, it will prove far 

 superior. This hotbed manure would 

 be more valuable to mix with potting 

 soil, which for many kinds of plants 

 should be somewhat lighter than the 

 soil used for benching. There is prob- 

 ably little fertilizing value in it; it 

 would not be of much use except for 

 lightening purposes. If your soil is 



heavy, it might prove beneficial, but, 

 unless that is the case, it would be 

 advisable to procure the fresher ma- 

 nure. Straw manure is always prefer- 

 able to that in which shavings have 

 been used for bedding. The shavings 

 may not be particularly harmful, but 

 they have not the fertilizing value that 

 straw has. 



If you must use this manure, it would 

 be better merely to add the lime at 

 the time you turn it, to get rid of the 

 angleworms. Leave the other fer- 

 tilizers out until you mix it with the 

 soil. Before adding the bone and the 

 blood, send a liberal sample to the 

 experiment station at Urbana and ask 

 the experts there to advise you as to 

 what you should add to your soil for 

 best results. That is one of the things 

 the experts are there for and you will 

 always find them ready to assist you in 

 your problems. Send samples of both 

 the soil and the manure. Growers do 

 not avail themselves of the valuable 

 assistance offered by these institutions 

 as they should. They have the trained 

 men and the facilities for investigation 

 and are better able to give reliable 

 advice than anyone else. Furthermore, 

 you will find them just as anxious to 

 assist the smaller grower as they are 

 to help the big fqllow. A. F. J. B. 



