••^•^;! / 



Jui-Y 20, 1922 



The Florists^ Review 



23 



ROSE CHAFERS. 



I am sending you a few bugs that are 

 destroying the rose foliage and other 

 shrubbery in the cemetery. Would like 

 to know of some remedy as soon as pos- 

 sible. E. A. B.— Mich. 



The box contained a number of rose 

 chafers, commonly called rose bugs. A 

 special article on these appeared on 

 page 89 of The Review for June 15, 

 which please peruse carefully. These 

 destructive insects have a marked par- 

 tiality for white flowers and are espe- 

 cially harmful to white roses, white 

 peonies, hydrangeas, tree lilac, Syringa 

 japonica and grape vine foliage, but 

 also attacks some other plants. While 

 they can be killed by poison sprays, the 

 use of arsenate of lead makes foliage 

 white for a long period, and the rose 

 bugs will leave the poisoned part and 

 attack any of the new, unsprayed por- 

 tion or opening flowers, rendering addi- 

 tional spraying necessary. I should sug- 

 gest that you get a can of Melrosine, 

 a comparatively new preparation on the 

 market, which I find kills all rose bugs 

 which it hits and disfigures foliage 

 hardly at all. If you cannot readily 

 procure this, I would spray with ar- 

 senate of lead, although it will some- 

 what disfigure foliage more or less. 

 C. W. 



TEMPERATURES FOR ROSES. 



Can roses be made to bloom in a night 

 perature of 50 degrees at night and 65 

 grees during the day? Will the garden 

 varieties be more apt to do so than the 

 varieties generally used for forcing? 

 M. P. F. C— Wash. 



Roses can be made to bloom in a tem- 

 perature of 50 degrees at nights and 65 

 degrees during the day, but the plants 

 will not throw nearly so many flowers, 

 though what flowers arc produced will 

 be of a much finer quality than those 

 produced in a higher temperature. The 

 reason that the average rose grower 

 holds his house at 58 degrees to 60 de- 

 grees at night and 75 degrees during the 

 day is to keep the plants alive and active 

 ami producing at all times to their ut- 

 most capacity. Whether the superior 

 crop produced will bring a sufficiently 

 enlianced jirice to offset the difference. I 

 am not in a position to determine. Of 

 course the overhead cliarges on grow- 

 ing the plants in this cooler atmosjiherc 

 will be considerably less, as every de- 

 gree over 50 degrees means additional 

 coal. Varieties that should do well un- 



For mildew, flowers of sulpliur blown 

 on the affected parts, preferably early 

 in the morning when there is a little 

 dew on the plants, will act as a deter- 

 rent. You can also spray with Bor- 

 deaux mixture, Sulco V. B. and other 

 proprietary fungoid remedies. Cold 

 nights following hot days will cause 

 mildew, as will also artificial watering 

 at night. C. W. 



AMERICAN^ ROSE SOCIETY. 



der tlie cooler conditions would be 

 Ophelia, flesh color; Columbia, bright 

 pink; Hoosier Beauty, red, and Angelus, 

 white. Some of the finest roses I have 

 ever seen were Hoosier Beauty grown 

 in a cool house, somewhat on the order 

 of vour idea. C. H. T. 



ON OUTDOOR ROSES. 



What is the best remedy for red 

 spider and mildew on outdoor roses? 



M. P. G.— Ind. 



For red spider, a force of water well 

 directed through a spray nozzle from 

 the hose is the best remedy. 



Registration. 



The following rose has been offered 



for registration by the Stuppy Floral 



Co., St. Joseph, Mo., and passed upon 



by the registration committee of the 



American Rose Society. 



Annip Laurie: ClasH, hybrid tea; parentage, 

 sport of Ophelia, grown under close observation 

 since 1918; habit, vigorous and good; character 

 of foliage, good and not susceptible to spot or 

 mildew; freedom of growth, branching erect with 

 good stem; flower, almost perfectly erect and on 

 a good neck; color, flesh pink with gold base, 

 looks good in bud as well as open flower; petal- 

 age, Arm and lasting, nearly double Ophelia, runs 

 from forty-one to flfty-six. It is a free bloomer 

 with lasting qualities and a wonderful keeper, 

 with practically no blind wood. It develops 

 well in the winter, making a large rose. 



If no objection to such registration is 

 filed with the secretary of the society 

 within three weeks after this publica- 

 tion, the registration will become per- 

 manent. .John C. Wister, Sec 'v. 



. PLANTING FOR NEXT SEASON. 



Time to Transfer. 



July and August are the months fa- 

 vored by most carnation growers for 

 transferring their carnations from the 

 field to the benches. In fact, the earlier 

 they are transferred in that period tlie 

 better, think the expert growers of the 

 divine flower. Occasionally we hear 

 of a case of unusual success with plants 

 lifted as late as September. That suc- 

 cess, however, is along the line of small 

 loss in reestablishment and in heavy 

 crops, but seldom in superfine quality. 

 We have never, to our knowledge, seen 

 blooms cut from September-planted 

 stock exhibited at our American Carna- 

 tion Society exhibition in January. 

 The argument that you do not need top- 

 grade carnations in your trade, that the 

 shorter-stemmed blooms will answer 

 your purpose and that if you can save 

 a month's care inside and cut a lot of 

 blooms you are better off, does not hold 

 good. You need the best carnation 

 blooms you are able to grow. Further- 

 more, you owe it to the carnation to 

 grow it to the top grade and thereby in- 

 crease the public's estim.-ition of the 

 flower. A great deal of injury has been 

 done the carnation in recent years by 

 the marketing of inferior stock, the re- 

 sult of careless growing and marketing. 

 The same is true of keeping the old 

 ])lants in the benches and cutting infe- 

 rior, sleepy blooms from them. There is 

 no beauty and little value in them. It 

 would be better to get tl" beds cleared 



at once and get the young plants 

 benched early enough to give them a 

 chance to produce blooms that will be 

 .'I credit to you. 



Beds or Benches? 



It makes little difference whether 

 larnations are grown on raised benches 

 or solid beds. High-grade stock can 

 be and is grown on both. We grow all 

 our carnations on solid beds, but I 

 would not tear out a good raised bench 

 to replace it with one of the other type. 

 At the time when the bench needs re- 

 building will be the proper time to do 

 that. Each season we see growers 

 changing from one type to the other, 

 thinking to eliminate the trouble or 

 failure they have experienced with the 

 type in use. In most instances a proper 

 diagnosis would disclose the fact that 

 the type of bench was not at all re- 

 sponsible for the failure. We growers 

 are pretty much like sheep. We are 

 prone to imitate and to follow the meth- 

 ods of those who have shown unusual 

 success. To adopt the methods of those 

 who are achieving success is good pol- 

 icy, provided we inform ourselves thor- 

 oughly on the real causes of the success. 

 Frequently we find these causes are not 

 in the more noticeable differences be- 

 tween their methods and ours, but rather 

 in the apparently minor matters in cul- 

 ture. The grower who is able to antici- 

 pate the wants of his plants will always 

 fare better th.in the grower who does 

 not see the need until the plants begin 

 to show suffering. The grower who can 

 see trouble in the ()ffing has ,a chance to 

 ward it off, wjiich' brings us to the old 



