OCTOBBK 9, 1913. 



The Florists' Review 



IS 



Btaud up the best; next to them, the 

 calycanthema or cup and saucer varie- 

 ties. Gentle forcing for an early crop 

 can commence about the middle of De- 

 cember. 



Freesias. 



The earliest batch of freesias should 

 have received some supports before this 

 time. Some growers use pieces of 

 birch brush among the growths; others 

 use thin bamboo and run tiers of 

 string around the plants. Q-reen string 

 only should be used. Whatever sup- 

 ports are used, they should be given 

 early, for if left too long the gr^Wiha 

 will lie down and the spikes are then 

 much more liable to come crooked. 



Freesifi flowers are always a welcome 

 addition at Christmas, and, given a 

 temperature of 55 degrees at night and 

 a light, sunny shelf from this time on, 

 a fair proportion of the early planted 

 ones should be on time. Good spikes 

 of Purity, which is far the best va- 

 riety, will make $6 to $8 per hundred 

 at wholesale in Christmas week with- 

 out any trouble. Only half these prices 

 are obtainable lat^r in the season, un- 

 less the stock is fancy. A last plant- 

 ing can now be made-; -this will fur- 

 nish flowers from the end of February 

 onward. * 



Bougalnvllleas. 



Bougainvilleas lifted from the open 

 ground, or carried over summer in pots 

 plunged outdoors, should not be given a 

 warm house for some considerable time 

 yet. A few may be started in heat and 

 will give a fairly good crop of flowers 

 for Christmas. The color of this plant, 

 however, is not of the shade that buy- 

 ers are especially looking for at the 

 holidays, and it pays much better to 

 time 'the plants for Easter, in which 

 case keep the plants with azaleas and 

 other hard-wooded subjects until New 

 Year's. Never mind if the temperature 

 gets down near the freezing point; it 

 will not hurt the bougainvilleas. Any 

 florist who has not yet grown bougain- 

 villeas would do well to give a few a 

 trial. They are profuse bloomers and 

 have wonderful lasting properties. 



Cinerarias and Calceolarias. 



The growth of cinerarias and calceo- 

 larias is now rapid. The calceolarias 

 hang fire decidedly during the hot 

 months, but are forging ahead satisfac- 

 torily now. The best place for either 

 of these two varieties of plants for 

 some time to come is in coldframes. 

 Keep them potted along before the roots 

 become cramped and make the soil a 

 little richer at each successive shift. 

 It is too late now to sow seeds of 

 either of these greenhouse annuals. 

 Any who have put off sowing until this 

 late date would better buy young plants 

 fron^ some of The Review's advertisers. 

 It is not yet too late to insert cuttings 

 of Calceolaria rugosa, or of that splen- 

 did variety, C. Stewarti. These will 

 root readily in any cool propagating 

 house and will make nice spring-flower- 

 ing plants. 



ScMzanthus. 



Sow a further batch of Schizanthus 

 Wisetonensis, or one of its many so- 

 called improvements, now. These will 

 make useful plants in spring. At Eas- 

 ter, when really nice plants are in de- 

 mand, schizanthus should make a wel- 

 come addition. The earliest batch 

 should now be in 5-inch pots, and will 

 require a shift later into 7-inch before 



"WHO'S WHO-AND WHY" 



LiiL. 



OEOBOE BUBTON. 



GEORGE BURTON, who was elected vice-president of the Philadelphia Florists ' 

 Club October 7, is one of the successful young men of the trade. A grower 

 of marked ability, he has specialized on the most difficult rose, securing crops just 

 when needed, the quality and quantity of which have surprised the eastern market. 

 He is a man of progressive ideas; the latest instance is his assumption of his 

 father's position and responsibilities, an act impossible to any one who lacked 

 confidence. A motor truck has just commenced taking the cut of Mr. Burton's 

 two places from Chestnut Hill to Philadelphia, ten miles away. 



they flower. They are gross feeders 

 and should have a tolerably rich soil; 

 they should also have liquid manure 

 regularly when once they are estab- 

 lished in their flowering pots. Grow 

 schizanthus cool all the time for best 

 results. It is sometimes advised to give 

 them 50 degrees at night. This is much 

 too warm; 40 to 45 degrees is much 

 better. 



CANTEEBUBY BELLS. 



Kindly inform me how to handle Can- 

 terbury bells. I have some in 4-inch 

 pots, plunged in the ground. They are 

 from last spring's sowing. Should they 

 be kept in the greenhouse or outdoors 

 over winter? F. H. 



Canterbury bolls, if sown last spring, 

 should now be fit for 8-inch or 9-inch 

 pots. You made a mistake in carrying 

 your plants over summer in pots. Had 

 they been planted out in good soil, they 

 would be fully quadruple their present 

 size. Of course, 4-inch pots are much 

 too small to flower them in, and you 

 should now shift them into 6-inch pots. 

 Stand them on a bed of coal ashes in 



a coldframe. Leave them exposed to 

 the weather for some weeks yet. A 

 few degrees of frost will do them no 

 harm, but cover with sashes when cold 

 becomes keener. They can be buried in 

 perfectly dry leaves and kept over win- 

 ter in frames if desired. They can be 

 started in gentle heat for spring flower- 

 ing any time after the middle of De- 

 cember. For Easter, start early in Jan- 

 uary. C. W. 



PBOBABLY THE SAME PBIMULA. 



"What is the difference between 

 gigantea and grandiflora primrosest 



D. W. D. 



There is probably no difference at all. 

 Both are supposed to indicate the large- 

 flowered types. Some seedsmen prefer 

 one adjective, some the other. The 

 buyer must not be too much carried 

 away by the terms grandiflora, gigantea, 

 superba, mammoth, gold medal strain, 

 extra selected, etc., when applied to 

 flower seeds, as frequently those with 

 the most awe-inspiring names and lauda- 

 tory adjectives prove disappointing. 



C. W. 



