Mat 23, 1W4- 



Tlie HoeisteVReview 



19 



two gallons of water and one-half ounce 

 of whale-oil soap. The soap should be 

 shaved fine and dissolved in hot water. 

 .Mixtures of this character should be 

 applied as a fine, penetrating spray by 

 means of a compressed air sprayer or 

 bucket pump. Such a pump costs from 

 $3.50 to $15. If no pump is to be had, 

 however, the infested twigs should be 

 dipped in a pail of the. solution. Care 

 should be taken to use these solutions 

 at strengths no greater than those 

 mentioned above, since injury to the 

 foliage may result through the use of 

 too much soap, or mildew be favored by 

 two strong a nicotine solution. 



Application of insecticides should be 

 made on the first appearance of the 

 pest, which varies from the time that 

 the leaves are put forth until the buds 

 begin to form. Applications should be 

 repeated as found necessary. 



THE DEFIANCE ROSE. 



The accompanying illustration is re- 

 produced from a photograph made at 

 the establishment of Edward Kress, 

 2506 East North avenue, Baltimore. It 

 shows the new red rose. Defiance, with 

 its originator, Mr. Kress, in the back- 

 ground. The photograph was made May 

 7. The plan is to disseminate the rose 

 next season. 



Vegetable Forcing 



TOMATOES FOR FOBCINO. 



I should like to have C. W. write an 

 article on tomato forcing. Also, please 

 have him tell me what is wrong with 

 my tomato plants. The upper leaves 

 twist and roll up into strings, sometimes 

 keeping a good green color but some- 

 times turning slightly yellow. When 

 about three feet high these plants wilt 

 and never recover. Bordeaux mixture 

 has no effect; neither has sulphur. The 

 roots are clean. The plants are grown 

 in rotation with lettuce. The soil is 

 sterilized with formaldehyde. Some- 

 times the leaves show little green blis- 

 ters, arranged in rows like the spore 

 cases on ferns. The Globe variety of 

 tomatoes is more subject to this trouble 

 than any other. My location is north- 

 eastern Ohio. W. W. 



If you want ripe tomatoes early in 

 November, start the seeds on or about 

 July 15. Transplant the seedlings into 

 flats; then pot off singly into 3-inch or 

 3%-inch pots. Plant out into benches 

 before the pots become too matted with 

 roots. For midwinter fruiting you must 

 allow the plants only a limited root- 

 run. You may get a fairly decent crop 

 to ripen in October and November even 

 in solid beds, but as the days grow 

 shorter the flowers will fall off in- 

 stead of setting fi-uit, and the crop will 

 be a scanty one. On the other hand, if 

 you will restrict the rooting surface to 

 four inches in depth and not over 

 eighteen inches in width and feed this 

 well as fruits set, you are certain of an 

 excellent set, provided. other conditions 

 are suitable. 



The plants should be eighteen inches 

 apart and should be trained to single 

 stems. Top the branches after five 

 bunches, or six at most, are formed. 

 Remgve all other laterals carefully; also 

 shorten back some of the leaves to let 



Hooae of the New Red Roee, DeHancet Raised by Edward Kress, Baltimore. 



the fruit get all possible light. Toma- 

 toes, especially in winter, sueee«d bet- 

 ter if grown a little on the dry side. 

 Once the fruit is set on two or three 

 bvnches, you can feed freely and a good 

 plan, is to give a mulching of cow 

 manure. After April a good plan is to 

 increase the rooting area and water 

 somewhat more freely. 



A dry atmosphere is needed by toma- 

 toes; in a moist one mildew will soon 

 develop. A winter minimum of 60 de- 

 grees is about right. If you have heat- 

 ing pipes below the benches, all the bet- 

 ter; a little bottom heat is good for 

 winter tomatoes. Keep white fly down 

 by using hydrocyanic acid gas. Only a 

 W'Cak dose is necessary. It should be 

 applied in the evening ; always select 

 as cool a night as possible for the op- 

 eration. 



A good soil for tomatoes consists of 

 three-fourths fibrous loam and one- 

 fourth well rotted cow or horse manure. 

 For midwinter fruiting the rows should 

 be spaced fully four feet apart. For 

 planting out in solid beds to follow vio- 

 lets or sweet peas in March or April, 

 the plants can be sixteen to eighteen 

 inches apart, with twenty -four inches 

 between the rows. Allow a 30-inch path 

 lengthways of the house, in order to 

 care for the plants more conveniently. 

 Allow only one stem to these spring- 

 planted ones, carefully removing all 

 laterals. 



Lister's Prolific I find to be the best 

 midwinter fruiter; it is a little ahead 

 of Comet, which is a popular sort for 

 both winter and spring planting. Car- 

 ter's Sunrise and Sutton's Best of All 

 are other good sorts. These are all 

 British varieties and are better for 



forcing than Chalk 's Early Jewel, Earli- 

 aaa, or any of our American sorts, fine 

 though they are for outdoor culture. 



Perhaps in the foregoing suggestions 

 you may find some reasons why your 

 plants are not doing better. 



C. W. 



GOOD TOMATO AND CUCUMBER. 



What is the best tomato and cucum- 

 ber for forcing! We are using Comet 

 and White Spine. A. S. E. 



Comet is a fine forcing tomato. How- 

 ever, I have found Lister's Prolific 

 somewhat better for winter and spring 

 crops. There are a number of first-class 

 strains of White Spine cucumber on 

 the market. Of these I consider Ar- 

 lington White Spine the best. C. W. 



NAME OF PLANT. 



Will you. please give us the name of 

 the plant to which the enclosed leaves 

 belong! We shall be glad if you will 

 also tell us how to propagate the plant. 

 We purchased it from a Cleveland florist 

 and requested him to give us the name, 

 but he could not; neither can we identify 

 the plant from the catalogues. It grows 

 somewhat like the dracaena and pan- 

 danus. 0. A. K. 



The leaves in question are those of 

 one of the cordylines, probably C. nigri- 

 cans, which is one of the forms of C. 

 terminalis. This plant is propagated by 

 cuttings in the same manner as C. 

 terminalis, the latter being the plant 

 generally known to the trade as Dra- 

 ca?na terminalis. W. H. T. 



