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10 



The Florists^ Review 



Jolt 15, 1915. 



A Trained Chrysanthemum Plant en Route to a New York Show. 



our plant on all sides, tying the longer 

 growths to the frame evenly all around. 

 The shorter ones we tie up a little 

 higher toward the center on strings 

 from the center stake to the frame 

 wire, finishing each plant in a partly 

 pyramidal fashion. 



As each plant is finished and turns its 

 growth upward again, we give it its 

 second pinching, removing the tip of 

 each shoot, except on those plants that 

 heretofore have thrown terminal buds. 



Soon we notice more growth, and tak- 

 ing the three strongest growths on each 

 former one, we discard all others. We 

 repeat our former method of tying down 

 when about fifteen inches of new 

 growth has been made, adding a larger 

 circular wire and building a little 

 higher near the center each time. 



This method we repeat during the 

 summer, pinching for the third time 

 about July 15 to 30. This gives us suf- 

 ficient wood to fill our specimens, and 

 they now continue to finish their growth 

 without more pinQhing, except when we 

 find here and there a long growth. We 



never pinch later than the second week 

 in August. The continued growth of 

 our plants may require us to extend 

 our foundation rods in order to carry 

 a larger ring. 



Our terminal buds begin to show from 

 September 1 to 15, according to the 

 variety. We then commence disbud- 

 ding, and prepare to make up our frame 

 of wire upon whicn to tie the buds. 



Building th9 Wire Frame. 



We first find the point on our founda- 

 tion wire that the last growth of our 

 plants will reach, and then cut a length 

 of No. 8 wire that when bent into a 

 perfect circular shape will form an out- 

 side ring at this point. This ring we 

 tie to our foundation rods at each point 

 of contact. This finished, we cut off 

 all the ends of our foundation wires 

 close to our circular wire. 



Measuring the height at which we 

 wish to train our plant in the center, 

 we cut the stake at this point. We 

 measure the approximate distance from 

 the top of the stake to the outside point 



of the boundary ring, and cut four 

 lengths of No. 8 wire double this meas- 

 urement in length, allowing a little 

 more for working with. These wires 

 are then bent into a curving form and 

 are placed over the plant, crossing the 

 top of the" utake at right angles, and 

 their ends are tied to the ends of the 

 foundation wire at both sidea, We 

 drill a small hole through the stak^near 

 the top, and pass a small wire through 

 this hole for tying all wires at the top 

 securely to the stake. 



We also use smaller stakes placed 

 equidistant from our center stake and 

 the edge of the plant. These stakes are 

 placed under the four longitudinal 

 wires and driven into the soil. The 

 wires are secured to these stakes with 

 small staples. At this point we place 

 another circular wire, tying at the point 

 of contact with the smaller stakes. We 

 next use No. 10 wire, starting at the 

 bottom of the frame and placing every 

 eight inches latitudinal wires over the 

 whole frame. Again we run other 

 smaller wires longitudinally, and fill in 

 the intervals with longitudinal strings 

 of silkaline. We have, when finished, 

 a frame resembling a hemisphere, and 

 now paint the whole foliage-green and 

 prepare to tie. 



The tying is done in the bud stage, 

 the work being done from the outside 

 inward, and the buds best adapted for 

 different positions are used, attempting 

 to keep them evenly distributed 

 throughout, with the top of the buds 

 two inches above the frame. After the 

 tying is finished the buds will all turn 

 up evenly to the light, and again we 

 straighten any that require it. When 

 they are about fully open, we again go 

 over them with stemming wire, and in- 

 serting this in the base of the flowers, 

 we are able, by twisting this about 

 the stems, to place each flower in its 

 proper position and thus gain a uniform 

 effect. 



OHICAOO FLOBISTS' CLUB. 



Trained Plant too Large for the Working Entrance to the Show. 



Flower Show Plans. 



The meeting of the Chicago Florists' 

 Club, July 8, was well attended by all 

 branches of the trade, and everyone had 

 some bit of valuable information to 

 carry home with him and apply later 

 in his every-day affairs. The first busi- 

 ness of the evening was to hear George 

 Asmus' report of the progress being 

 made by the flower show committee. 

 The result of the meeting of the joint 

 executive committee of the Horticul- 

 tural Society and the Florists' Club has 

 already been reported in The Review. 

 Mr. Asmus, who at that meeting was 

 appointed chairman of the premium 

 committee, selected as his aids August 

 Poehlmann, Carl Cropp, C. W. Johnson, 

 Frank Oechslin and W. E. Tricker. To- 

 gether they have prepared a premium 

 list that only awaits the sanction of 

 the executive committee before publica- 

 tion. 



The Geneva Horticultural Society, of 

 Lake Geneva, Wis., has mailed its 

 schedule to George Asmus with the sug- 

 gestion that if it be accepted without 

 alteration by the Chicago flower show 

 committee, the society will cancel its 

 show and exhibit here. The matter was 

 put to vote and carried unanimously 

 that the schedule be adopted as sub- 

 mitted. Mr. Asmus said that it would 

 be possible to secure an option on the 

 Coliseum for a spring show in 1917 



