,-T, 



14 



The Florists' Review 



July 15, 1915. 



plants ar.e suffering from dryness at 

 the roots. As long as the plants are in 

 good growing condition and receive 

 plenty of water they will not burn, no 

 matter how hot it is. To prevent mil- 

 dew, keep air on the house at all times; 

 see that the foliage is dry at night 

 whenever possible; on cool nights have 

 a little fire going, and keep some sul- 

 phur painted on the heating pipes. If 

 there are signs of mildew around, dust 

 some sulphur on the leaves on sunnv 

 days. W. J. K. " 



CARRYING OVER ROSE PLANTS. 



What is the best way to handle bench 

 roses which are to be carried over for 

 next spring's bedding? Would it be 

 better to keep them in ci»ld storage? 

 If so, how should they be prepared for 

 storage? M. F. C.— Tenn. 



The inquiry does not state\for what 

 length of time the bench roses\are to be 

 kept. I do not think rose plants could 

 be kept successfully for any length of 

 time in cold storage. If the plants are 

 taken out of the benches at this time 

 of the year, the best treatment for 

 them would be to plant them outdoors 

 and keep them growing till frost, when 

 they can be taken up and set close to- 

 gether either in a coldframe or any 

 ether sheltered place, where they will 

 winter with little protection. 



FOR A BEGINNER IN ROSES. 



As a beginner in roses, I should like 

 to obtain some information through 

 The Review. Is 214-inch a good size 

 for benching? How soon could blooms 

 be cut from plants this size? Are two 

 eyes enough to leave when cutting 

 flowers? I should also like some infor- 

 mation in regard to feeding. Is top- 

 dressing or liquid manure the better? 



A. J. P.— Iowa. 



While it is the practice to grow 

 young roses in pots to 3-inch or 4-inch 

 before planting them in the bench, to 

 save time and utilize the growing space 

 as long as possible before replanting, 

 it is not at all necessary to do so; 21/:..- 

 inch rose plants will do just as well 

 planted in benches as larger plants, 

 only it will be a longer time before 

 they will be large enough to cut flowers 

 from. It usually takes from three to 

 four months from the time of planting 

 before the plants will produce good 

 flowers on stems long enough to pay to 

 cut for the market, though for home 

 use flowers can be cut sooner, provided 

 they are cut with short stems, leaving 

 as much foliage as possible to support 

 the plants. 



In cutting- the ^first crop of flowers 

 from youn^ plants*, it is good policy to 

 leave three or four eyes on all strong 

 shoots and at least two full, perfect 

 leaves of five petals. After the first 

 crop, all flowers may be cut to the 

 first fviU leaf, which is usually the sec- 

 ond eye. About the time the first crop 

 of blooms is developing, a light feeding 

 should be given, which in hot weather 



should consist of half decayed stable 

 manure, which will cover the so^ and 

 prevent it from baking in the hoi sun. 

 Later in the season, when the days are 

 shorter, it is a good thing to give the 

 plants liquid manure every two or three 

 weeks, provided the plants are making 

 good growth. The mpre the plants grow, 

 the more food they will require and 

 should accordingly be given. 



VENTILATING A ROSE HOUSE. 



Please inform me as fully as possible 

 in regard to ventilating a rose house, 

 22x80 feet, with three side windows. 

 Is it possible for the house to become 

 too hot, and so crisp the leaves and- 

 stiffen them? Should the side venti- 

 lators be open as much as possible, 

 according to the wedther, in a house of 

 this size? Please state the best way 

 to ward off mildew, which is easy to 

 get in so small a hohse. The ridge 

 pole is about twenty feet high, and the 

 ventilators are on the south side. 



V. B. W.— Iowa. 



Roses should be ventilated as much 

 as possible from the ridge of the house. 

 In extremely hot weather side ventila- 

 tion tp^y be used, but it is not prac- 

 ticed much, as it seems to cause mildew. 

 Burning of the leaves in hot weather 

 is usually caused by syringing the 

 plants on bright, sunny days while the 



THE BAGATELLE ROSE TRIALS! 



Despite the war, the annual judgment 

 of new roses, planted in the grounds of 

 Chateau de Bagatelle, in the Bois de 

 Boulogne, near Paris, was given June 18. 

 Owing to the circumstances of the war, 

 foreign members of the jury sent their 

 excuses, and the judges were all French- 

 men. AH roses of German and Austrian, 

 origin had been discarded. 



The following awards were distrib- 

 uted : 



Gold medal, to a rose from a French 

 raiser : Mme. Raymond Poincare, H. T., 

 a superb rose, described as a glorified 

 Mrs. Aaron Ward, raised by Jules Gra- 

 vereaux, an amateur of I'Hay. 



Gold medal, to a rose of foreign 

 raiser : Mme. Marcel Delauney, H. T.,. 

 of strong build and growth, a blush-col- 

 ored, large rose, presented by Messrs. 

 Leendors, of Steil Tegoloii, Holland. 



First certificate of Bagatelle: Queen 

 Maty, H. T., from A. Dickson & Sons. 



Second certificate of Hngntelle: Etin- 

 celante, H. T., an improved Gruss an 

 Teplitz, presented by M. Chambard, of 

 Lyon. 



The rules also specify that one or two 

 certificates may be distributed to climb- 

 ers. Two were distributed as follows: 



First: Louis Sauvage, a dark garnet 

 red multiflora climber, from E. Turbat 

 & Co.', of Orleans. 



Second: Gustavo Bienvetu, a nice red 

 Wichuraiana hybrid, from Auguste No- 

 nin, of Chatillon. 



The number of varieties competing 

 was sixty. 



Jllllllllllllllllllllillllllllllllllliilllillllllililllllllllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllilll^ 



I SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS I 

 j FOR SOUTHERN FLORISTS | 



TlllMllliliiiiliiiiiiiiiillllllllllllllllllllllllllllIllllinillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllJT 



way the roots invariably find their way 

 into the ground, where they develop 

 enormously. 



Although the pandanus is a stove 

 plant, yet, when fully established in 

 pots, it will stand greenhouse tempera- 

 tures if kept well on the dry side. How- 

 ever, a night temperature a little over 

 60 degrees is always safe. In watering, 

 care must be taken not to break down 

 any of the leaves. Scale will give little 

 trouble if the plants are not over- 

 crowded and if they are sprayed prop- 

 erly. An occasional dipping in whale 

 or seal oil soap is a good preventive. 



In shipping these plants out of pots, 

 I find it always necessary to keep them 

 well on the dry side, even if for a long- 

 distance shipment. If packed wet, they 

 are almost certain to rot in transit. A 

 nice cutting rooted in March, if prop- 

 erly cared for, will make a good stand- 

 ard 6-inch pot specimen for the holi- 

 days. L. 



PANDANUS IN THE SOUTH. 



This decorative plant does exceed- 

 ingly well in the south and grows rap- 

 idly. Old plants make lots of cuttings 

 along their stems, but not all are good 

 for making the kind of plant the trade 

 requires. Reject all the rank, green 

 cuttings, which never make nice plants, 

 and select the short, nicely variegated 

 ones, of which there are always plenty, 

 and you will have the kind of plants 

 that sell. The cuttings root readily at 

 any time of the year, in a warm propa- 

 gating bed in winter and in a shady 

 house in summer. The leaves of strong 

 cuttings will need to be loosely tied up 

 before inserting in the propagating bed. 



The potting soil should be good, with 

 a third of rotten manure; if the soil is 

 clayey, add a little clean sand. The 

 best place for them in summer is on a 

 table in a lath house. They can also 

 be plunged out in a coldframe in the 

 open, but if they are handled in this 



