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The Florists^ Review 



September 16, 1915. 



CONCERNING MILADY. 



I should like t;p hear from a grower 

 in regard to the cultivation of the Mi- 

 lady rose; also, how it ranks commer- 

 cially. W. R. W.— W. Va. 



some of the smaller, more tender, plants 

 turned black. We also lost hundreds 

 in our packing sheds from black mold. 

 Any suggestions you can oflfer on cold 

 storage of teas and hybrid teas will 

 be appreciated. P. W. C. — Utah. 



Milady is extensively and success- 

 fully grown by a large number of com- 

 mercial rose erowers, but, like most 

 of the red roses, it has its- shortcom- 

 ings as well as its good points. It is 

 highly susceptible to thripp in sum- 

 mer, and for that reason needs close 

 watching. It also is easily attacked 

 by black-spot. However, Milady is an 

 exceedingly free grower and producer, 

 and will more than repay one for all 

 the extra care it requires. Milady 

 should have a night temperature of 56 

 to 58 degrees in winter. It should be 

 kept 4 to 6 degrees warmer on cloudy 

 days and 10 degrees warmer on clear 

 days. It should have plenty of fresh 

 air at all times. As Milady produces 

 a large, full flower, it suffers quickly 

 from warm and close temperatures on 

 cloudy days. Considering all points. 

 Milady is about as profitable as any 

 other rose on the market today. 



W. J. K. 



STORING ROSE PLANTS. 



We have from 15,000 to 20,000 rose 

 plants, teas and hybrid teas, which we 

 ^ish to carry through the winter for 

 spring sales. Most of them are in pots 

 that vary in size from 2-inch to 5-inch, 

 but part of the stock is field-grown, not 

 in pots. Our previous methods have 

 not been successful, except with hybrid 

 perpetuals. Heretofore we have stored 

 them in cellars, stripping oflf the leaves, 

 covering the roots with clean sand and 

 not allowing much light. The wood on 



To winter tea and hybrid tea roses 

 successfully, the plants should have 

 considerable light and should also be 

 aired on every possible occasion. Dark- 

 ness and dampness soon cause mold to 

 spread and ruin a large part of the 

 plants. A winter storage house, to be 

 a success, should be provided with 

 ample ventilation. Only during severe 

 cold- or heavy snows should the ven- 

 tilators be closed. Your plants would 

 have kept well if more light and air 

 had been given them. 



The field-grown hybrid perpetuals 

 and hybrid teas should be lifted and 

 packed in damp earth, not in sand. It 

 is advisable to give some water, so 

 as to moisten the roots, for if these are 

 too dry, the plants will probably die. 

 Sand is a poor material in which to 

 pack roots of shrubs, trees or roses. 

 Plants may appear fresh in it, but 

 if exposed to sun and light will in 

 many cases turn black. It is surprising 

 that so many nurserymen persist in 

 using sand. 



The tea roses are more tender and 

 less damp-proof than the hybrid per- 

 petuals and hybrid teas and should be 

 given a fairly light place, where they 

 can get fresh air. Work some dry 

 leaves among them. These leaves will 

 absorb any moisture and you will find 

 your plants will come out in better 

 shape in the spring. Do not mind if 

 your plants get a little frost; it is 

 better than keeping them too close and 

 stuflfy. C. W. 



ROSES FOR DESIGNS IN SOUTH. 



We want to set out 400 or 500 rose 

 bushes this fall, with the intention of 



using the blooms for cut flowers and 

 designs. What pinks and whites would 

 you suggest? What age should the 

 bushes be to have flowers the first 

 year? When should they be set out 

 here? What shrubs should we set out 

 in order to get cut flowers for designs? 

 H. P. F. & C— N. C. 



For outdoor blooming in North Caro- 

 lina you can get nothing better than 

 Cochet roses, pink and white. Obtain 

 strong plants from 4-inch pots and set 

 them out at once. If you can arrange 

 to have these set out in beds with a 

 sash roof over them in spring and 

 summer, you will find them the most 

 profitable roses you can grow. They 

 will need much water, ' and you will 

 have to fight thrips in the spring, using 

 nicotine extract two or three times a 

 week from the time the buds form. 

 After the first crop you will have no 

 further trouble until fall. Kaiserin 

 is also fine for outdoors. 



For flowering shrubs you can use 

 snowballs, althaeas, oleanders (if hardy 

 in your section). Hydrangea arborescens 

 and H. paniculata grandiflora. Other 

 good plants for the purpose are snap- 

 dragons, feverfew, Vinca rosea and alba, 

 peonies and dahlias. A few plants of 

 Clematis paniculata grown on trellises or 

 posts give a fine lot of flowers in August 

 and September. They are suitable for 

 designs. L. 



HYDRANGEAS FOR FORCING. 



Being inexperience^ in the growing 

 of hydrangeas, I am coming to you for 

 advice. Last spring I took cuttings of 

 Otaksa and Mme. E. Mouillere, and 

 when the weather was suitable I plant- 

 ed them outdoors. They have grown 

 nicely all summer and now are about 

 eight inches high, with from two to 

 nine good, healthy stalks. I should like 

 to bloom these for Christmas and 

 Easter. What care should be given to 

 the plants now, to make them budf 

 How and when should they be potted 

 and what care should they receive in- 

 doors? The other day I took a few 

 plants from the field and potted them, 

 and found that they were quite heav- 

 ily rooted. E. C— N. Y. 



If you want hydrangeas for early 

 forcing, you should dig up your plants 

 now. They will lift with a large ball. 

 Reduce this so they can be placed in 

 pots of a suitable size. Pot firmly and 

 water well. Keep them outdoors for 

 some weeks, but do not expose them 

 to more than light freezings. The 

 French varieties, such as Mme. E. Mouil- 

 lere, are much more tender than H. 



Paooramic View of the Display of James Vick's Sons at the Rochester Industrial Exposition Flower Show. 



