2.">0 



TO KOKM AND OKXAJIEN'I 



closely similar character to that reached by working tlie colors in 

 with warp and woof. In a very close fabric this method cannot lie 

 employed, bvxt like results are reached by passing the added filaments 

 beneath the protruding parts of the bindings and, stitch by stitch, 

 covering up the plain fabi'ic, working bright patterns. Fig. 330 is 

 intcndi'd to show Ikjw this is done. The foundation is of twined work 



embroidery up< 



northwest coast Indians. 



and the decorating fillets are passed under by lifting, witli or with- 

 out a needle. This process is extensively practiced by our west coast 

 tribes, and the results are extremely pleasing. The materials most 

 used are quills and bright colored straws, the foimdation fabric being 

 of bark or of inishes. Tlie results in such work are generally geo- 

 uictrii-. in a way corrcspdiiding more or less closely with the ground 

 wni'k combination. 



A largo class of embroideries are applied by 1 iki' ] ii'( <vi ^sses, but with- 

 niit rt'fcrfuce to the construction of the foundation lalnic as they are 

 also applied to felt and leather. Again, artificially pti-pared perfora- 

 tions are used, through which the fillets are passed. The results are 

 much less uniformly geometric than where the fabric is followed; 

 yet the men' adding of the figures, stitcli by stitch or part by part. 

 is siilliciciil to impart a large share of -vnmetricity, as may be seen 

 ill the buckskin bead work and in the deiitalium and quill work of 

 the Indians. 



Feather embroidery was carried to a high degree of perfection by 

 oTir ancient aborigines, and the results were perhaps the most brill- 

 iant of all these wonderful decorations. I have already shown how 

 feathers are woven in with the warp and woof, and may now give a 

 single illustration of the application of feather work to the surfaces of 

 fabrics. Among the beautiful articles recovered from the tombs of 

 Ancon, Peru, are some much decayed specimens of feather work. In 

 our example delicate feathers of red, blue, and yellow hues are ap- 

 plied to the surface of a coarse cotton fabric by first carefully tying 

 them together in rows at regular distances and afterwards stitching 

 them down, as shown in Fig. 337. 



The same method is practiced by modern peoples in many pai'ts of 

 the world. Other decorative materials are applied in similar ways 

 by attachment to cords or fillets which are afterwards stitched down. 

 Ill all this work the geometricity is entirely or nearly uniform with 



