32 MYSTIC ISLES 



shops of the merchants along the beach, the spire of a 

 church, a line of wharf, a hundred tiny homes all but 

 hidden in the foliage of the ferns. These gradually 

 came into view as the ship, after skirting along the reef, 

 steered through a break in the foam, a pass in the 

 treacherous coral, and glided through opalescent and 

 glassy shallows to a quay where all Papeete waited to 

 greet us. 



The quay was filled with women and men and chil- 

 dren and dogs. Carriages and automobiles by the score 

 attended just outside. Conspicuous above all were the 

 Tahitian and part-Tahitian girls. In their long, grace- 

 ful, waistless tunics of brilliant hues, their woven bam- 

 boo or pandanus hats, decorated with fresh flowers, their 

 feet bare or thrust into French slippers, their brown 

 eyes shining with yearning, they were so many Circes 

 to us from the sea. They smiled and looked with long- 

 ing at these strangers, who felt curious thrills at this 

 unknown openness of promise. 



Louis de Bougainville wrote in his diary at his first 

 coming to Tahiti a hundred and fifty years ago : 



The boats were now crowded with women, whose beauty of 

 face was equal to that of the ladies of Europe, and the sym- 

 metry of their forms much superior. 



Leboucher called to his mother. ^^Madre mia! 

 Como estas tu?" 



Cries rang out in French, in Tahitian and in English. 

 Islanders, returning, demanded information as to 

 health, business ventures, happenings. Merry laughter 

 echoed from the roof of the great shed, and I felt my 

 heart suddenly become joyous. 



