CHAPTER IX 



The Arearea in the pavilion — Raw fish and baked feis — Llewellyn, the 

 Master of the Revel; Kelly, the I. W. W., and His Himene— The Upau- 

 pahura — Landers and Mamoe prove experts — The return to Papeete. 



THE company was assembled in the pavilion when 

 I walked through the streets of Faatoai again, 

 and the food was on the bamboo table. One 

 might have thought the feast would have been spread on 

 soft mats on the sward, as is the Tahitian custom, but 

 these whites are perverse and proud, and their legs un- 

 bending to such a position. 



We had raw fish cut up, with bowls of cocoanut sauce. 

 It was delicious in taste, but raw fish is tough and at first 

 hard to chew until one becomes accustomed to the tex- 

 ture. Whites learn to crave it. 



This fish was cut in small pieces thicker and bigger 

 than a domino, and steeped in fresh lime-juice for half a 

 day. The sauce was made by pouring a cup of sea- 

 water over grated cocoanuts and after several hours' 

 straining through the fiber of young cocoanut shoots. 

 It was thick, like rich cream. 



We had excellent raw oysters and raw clams on the 

 shell, crabs stewed with a wine sauce that was delicious, 

 fish, boiled chicken, and baked pig. I had not tasted 

 more appetizing food. It was all cooked in the native 

 fashion on hot stones above or under ground. We 

 saw the pig's disinterment. On the brink of the stream 

 which flowed past the bower the oven had been made. 



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