OF THE SOUTH SEAS 277 



ing. They are small at the top, but roomy below. One 

 cannot see these holes through ruffled water. Once lo- 

 cated, grapnels, or spools fitted with a dozen hooks, are 

 lowered into them. A pair inhabits the same den. If 

 the male is at home, he seizes the grapnel, and is raised 

 and captured, and the female follows. But if the 

 female emerges first, it is a sure sign that the male is 

 absent in search of food. I have pondered as to this 

 habit of the varo, and have tried to persuade me that the 

 male, being a courteous shrimp, — he is a kind of mantis- 

 shrimp, — combats the intruding hooks first in order to 

 protect his loved one ; but the grapnel is baited with fish, 

 and though masculine pride would insist that chivalry 

 urges varo hormne to defend his domestic shrine, fishers 

 for the tidbit say that he is after the bait, and holds to it 

 so tightly that he sacrifices his life. Nevertheless, the 

 lady embraces the same opportunity to rise, and their 

 deserted tenement is soon filled by the sands. 



Trapping varos calls for patience and much dexterity. 

 The mere finding of the holes is possible only to natives 

 trained from childhood. Six varos make a good meal, 

 with bread and wine, and they are most enjoyable hot — 

 also most indigestible. 



"Begin their eating by sucking a cold one," once said 

 a bon vivant to me. "Only when accustomed to them 

 should you dare them hot and in numbers." 



Flying-fish are sold, many of them delicate in taste 

 and shapely. 



One may buy favorite sauces for fish, and some of 

 the women offered them to me. One is taiaro, made of 

 the hard meat of the cocoanut, with pounded shrimp, 

 and allowed to ferment slightly. It is put up in bamboo 



