

Fbbbuart 2, 1905. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



595 



oflf, generally the last growth that has 

 been made being sufficient, if it has 

 been properly ripened. Only the very 

 lightest wood or useless brush should 

 be cut out completely, and, in fact, 

 unless the plants are good and strong 

 it would be safest for a beginner to cut 

 nothing but the tops, and then, after 

 the plants have made a good healthy 

 start, he may do a little thinning out. 



I must put special stress on this mat- 

 ter of cutting out, as it is the very 

 point on which there may be a great 

 variety of opinions as to what consti- 

 tutes useless wood. It is certainly true 

 that unless a person knows what he is 

 about he will do the least damage and 

 have the greatest chance of success by 

 letting the plants alone, with the excep- 

 tion of merely cutting off the tops. 



While it is the common practice to 

 leave Brides and Maids standing up- 

 right after pruning, there are occasions 

 when it is almost imperative to bend 

 them down. This is especially so in 

 the case of plants over two years old, 

 which often become so tall that, in 

 order to get them within a convenient 

 working distance, they would have to 

 be cut back too hard; consequently the 

 only alternative is to bend them down 

 and tie out in fan shape, taking care 

 not to cross the canes any more than 

 necessary. 



Qose Pruning. 



The second class, of which Liberty 

 has been cited as an example, requires 

 close prunii^g. Kaiserin and Carnot 

 also are familiar examples. They 

 should be cut back somewhat similar to 

 hybrid perpetuals. The general rule is 

 to cut one-year-old plants to four or 

 five good eyes, and the second and fol- 

 lowing years back on the first growth 

 made after starting up the plants dur- 

 ing that year. Of course, they will 

 grow all right if not cut back to the 

 limit, but the longest stems usually 

 come from the closest cut plants, allow- 

 ance being made for the different varie- 

 ties, as a strong growing sort will not 

 require as close pruning as a weak kind. 



Most of the present-day varieties, 

 then, can be placed under these two 

 classes, but I have no doubt that many 

 of the roses of the future will require 

 treatment which will be midway be- 

 tween these two extremes. 



Starting Into Growth. 



The method of starting the plants 

 into growth is about the same in all 

 cases. The beds should be thoroughly 

 cleaned off and given a good watering. 

 Some prefer to remove a little of the 

 old soil, but it is not at all necessary 

 and I doubt very much if there is 

 enough gain to pay for the trouble, 

 except, perhaps, in special cases. 



After the beds have had a good 

 watering, whatever manures or fertiliz- 

 ers one is accustomed to use may be 

 put on and thoroughly watered in. Now, 

 this is the important part; it may take 

 one watering and it may take three or 

 four, but at any rate do it thoroughly. 

 Then let the soil alone. This, also, is 

 important, as no more water is required 

 until the plants break into a good red, 

 healthy growth. 



Examine the soil and when little 

 white rootlets are found, it is a sign 

 that the plants will take more water if 

 carefully applied, but do not give too 

 much, as an overdose at this stage will 



The Garden Gate in the Show Window* 



cause the young shoots to turn yellow. 

 This is the danger point, but once over 

 this stage, the plants will be ready for 

 the regular treatment which is given to 

 any rose. 



From Benches to Bed*. 



Some growers prefer to grow their 

 plants on benches for the first year 

 and replant into solid beds the second 

 year. This gives very satisfactory re- 

 sults and can be recommended to any 

 who wish to run plants for two or three 

 years but do not care to star* in with 

 solid beds. 



The treatment is about the same as 

 though carried over without changing 

 the soil. The plants should be ripened 

 sufficiently so that they may be lifted 

 without danger of the wood shriveling. 

 When ready to transfer to the new soil 

 they should be watered enough so that 

 they may be lifted with a good ball 

 of soil on the roots. Now, while they 

 may be planted directly into the new 

 soil, the better way, and by long odds 

 the safest, is to put them outdoors in 

 the sun, throw in a little soil between 

 the plants and water well. In four or 

 five days the roots will begin to start, 

 when they should be brought in and 

 planted. Tramp the soil in firmly 

 about the roots, leaving a basin around 

 each plant, so that only the soil con- 

 taining roots will be wet, and water 

 thoroughly. 



The only danger points now are dry 

 air and wet soil. The first causes the 

 wood to shrivel; to prevent this, keep 

 the walks damp and the bushes sprayed 

 for a few days, with a very fine spray. 

 The second causes the new growth to 

 start yellow, or even, in some cases, the 



plants to die outright. The remedy 

 depends mostly on the skill and expe- 

 rience of the grower, but in general I 

 may say that the first watering often 

 proves sufficient to start the roots; at 

 any rate, the less water they receive 

 until the plants have begun to grow 

 well, the less will be the chances of 

 failure. 



FEEDING THE ROSE PLANTS. 



As we are now about to emerge from 

 the dark weather and the duration and 

 intensity of sunshine also are on the 

 increase we can afford to apply feeding 

 material in stronger doses and with more 

 frequency. But if we wish to supply 

 this food in the form of a mulch we 

 must not forget the danger of putting it 

 on too thickly; better to apply it thinly 

 and more frequently than take any risks 

 which are sure to accompany a heavy 

 application. 



The benefit to be derived from a heavy 

 dose will be more than counterbalanced 

 by the evil effects of excluding the light 

 and sun from the surface of the soil, 

 preventing proper evaporation and bring- 

 ing root action to a standstill. These 

 life-giving rays should rather be encour- 

 aged to find their way to the surface of 

 the soil and have no obstruction placed 

 in their way. While we may be very 

 anxious to supply the necessary food in 

 sufficient quantities, we must not lose 

 sight of the fact that light and sunshine 

 are as necessary to the roots and soil as 

 to the stems and foliage. 



A light, rich mulch will now greatly 

 benefit those roses which are healthy and 

 vigorous but this should be put on no 

 thicker than half an inch and should 

 more resemble a top-dressing than a 



