596 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



Febbuabt 2, 1905. 



mulch proper. A top-dressing of bone 

 meal would now be welcomed and this 

 also should be applied sparingly for the 

 first application and especially if the 

 plants are weak or the foliage slightly 

 off color and should be entirely avoided 

 if the plants are sickly. 



This material contains ammonia and 

 phosphorus in the proper proportions 

 and in a very assimilable form and can 

 be applied to the surface of the soil with 

 proper effect without in any way disturb- 

 ing it, the subsequent waterings convey- 

 ing the element within reach of the feed- 

 ing roots. 



"Where roses show a softness of wood 

 or foliage it is advisable to give them a 

 top dressing of lime or wood ashes. 

 These also should at this season be ap- 

 plied carefully and in small doses until 

 the season is more advanced and as no 

 stirring of the surface is required to de- 

 rive the full benefit, the operation is 

 easily and quickly performed. 



When the weather is bright and clear 

 an application of liquid food will now 

 be of great benefit and this, if applied 

 at the right stage of growth, will by 

 reason of its readily assimilable form be 

 more immediate in its action and bring 

 quicker results. Ribes. 



SOIL FOR ROSES. 



Will you kindly tell me what kind of 

 soil 18 good for roses? I was advised 

 by one grower to use black soil and an- 

 other to use some clay in it. T. H. 



The most suitable soil for rose culture 

 under glass is the top spit from old pas- 

 ture land where the soil is a rather 

 heavy, friable loam, with at least fifty 

 per cent of clay in its composition. The 

 black soils which prevail in some quar- 

 ters, while not the ideal rose soil, are 

 capable of producing first-class roses. 

 A slight mixture of a good friable clay, 

 say m the proportion of one part to 

 three would no doubt be beneficial if 

 properly composted and thoroughly in- 

 eorporated. K^-^jg^ 



TROUBLE WITH ROSES. 



I send you samples of rose plants, 

 lliey have been standing still and drop- 

 ping leaves for some time, I do not 

 think they have been over watered. I 

 have been keeping the house at 56 to 

 58 degrees at night. A few times the 

 house has been as low as 52 degrees, but 

 not often. I have some Ivory in the 

 same house that are doing nicely I 

 have about 600 plants in all, about 'half 

 of which were carried over from last 

 year. The latter look the worse. I 

 notice in the sample of soil a small in- 

 sect resembling thrips, but it seems to 

 be about the roots of the plants. I have 

 been particular about ventilation, giv- 

 ing them air whenever possible. What 

 do you think of the soil for growing 

 roses f The separate sample is the kind 

 of soil near the greenhouse. L. E. A. 



These plants are infested with eel 

 worms and I can hold out little hope of 

 their ever doing any good. The Perles 

 are not so badly affected as the other 

 specimen, and may weather through till 

 spring growth commences, and as they 

 are rank growers, they may outlive it. 



The little insects in the soU are the 

 larvae of thrips, which ^ill soon develop 

 into the perfect insect. 



The sample of soil is altogether too 



light to suit roses, and, indeed, I would 

 like it even heavier for carnations. 



•The soil in which the roses were plant- 

 ed is also too light. I would advise using 

 the clay part of it without mixture of any 

 other soil, simply adding one-fifth of 

 decomposed cow manure. Chop the whole 

 compost up and turn over a few times 

 before using. It would be unsafe to 

 propagate from such stock. Bibes. 



OLD PLANTS OUTDOORS 



What is the proper temperature for 

 American Beauty f I notice that in 

 the spring some growers advertise old 

 plants of Beauty for sale. What are 

 they used forf Could they be used out- 

 doors in Missouri for cutting during 

 summer f Could old plants of Bride and 

 Bridesmaid be used for this purpose? 



B. 



Beauties do well at a temperature of 

 58 degrees but some growers are equal- 

 ly successful using 60 degrees. The 

 old stock which is advertised in May 

 and June is used for outdoor planting 

 and if properly handled and cared for 

 they can be made a source of pleasure 

 and profit and are good for years. They 

 are much superior to young plants, as 

 they are ready to go to work at once. 

 Brides and Maids are also useful for 

 this purpose but in some of the north- 

 ern states they are liable to suffer se- 

 verely during a hard winter. I should 



think they would do well with you. 

 Kaiserin and Meteor would no doubt 

 also do well. BiBXS. 



BLIND WOOD 



Our Brides, Maids and Beauties are 

 all sending up more blind wood than 

 blooming wood; also both varieties of 

 Cochets. The growth on the Beauties 

 is very strong, canes five to eight feet 

 long, and still growing, but no buds. 

 The growth on the others is not vigor- 

 ous. Temperature ranges from 55 to 60 

 degrees at night and higher in the day. 



xL. H. B. 



There are many causes for Brides and 

 Maids producing a surplus of blind 

 wood, chief among which is defective 

 ventilation. Another very common cause 

 is allowing the branches to trail over 

 the bench instead of being tied up neat- 

 ly. Brides and Maids will also have a 

 tendency to run to blind wood if the 

 temperature frequently reaches 60 de- 

 grees at night; 56 degrees is the proper 

 temperature for these varieties. 



Beauties will sometimes run to blind 

 wood during a protracted spell of dark 

 weather, but each and every shoot will 

 produce a bloom if you wait. Run them 

 a little on the dry side and keep the 

 night temperature about 58 degrees, 

 giving them 75 or 80 degrees when the 

 sun shines, but always with good ven- 

 tilation. Ribes. 



mmmmmmmmmmmmmimmmmmmmmmu^ 



PRONOUNCING DICTIONARY 



COPYRIGHT, 1904, BY FLORISTS' PUBLISHINO COMPANY, CHICAGO. 



iMinmiiiMiiiMii^^ 



Frequent inquiry as to the correct pro- 

 nunciation of plant names has lea us 

 to compile the following list of names, 

 selecting those in most common use in 

 the trade, and including botanical terms 

 most frequently met with in articles upon 

 plant culture. 



In our list we have used the following 



KEY TO PRONUNCIATION, 

 a as in fat e as in met 5 as In note 



a as In fate e as in mete o as in movc 



a as in far e as in her 6 as in nor 



& as in fall i as in pin u as in tub 



a as in fare i as in pine u as in mute 



& as in Persia o as in not u as in pull 



The syllables to be accented are marked 

 thus'. 



P 



(CONTINUID 7BOU LAST WIKK.) 



Poeticus — (p6-et'i-kus) . 

 Poinciana — (poin-si-a'nfl,) . 

 Poinsettia — (poiii-set'i-&) . 

 Polemonium — (pol-e-mo'ni-um) . 

 Polianthes — (pol-i-an'thez) . 

 Poa— (p6'&). 



Polyantha — (pol-i-a;n'th&) . 

 Polyanthes — (pol-i-an'thez) . 

 Polyanthus— (pol-i-an'thus) . 

 Polygala— (p6-lig'a-l&) . 

 Polygonum — (po-lig'o-num) . 

 Polypodium — (pol-i-po'di-um) . 

 Poljrpody— (pol'i-p6-di) . 

 Pomelo— (pom'e-l6) . 

 Pomology— (pO-mol'o-ji) . 

 Pontederia — (pon-te-de'ri-a) . 

 Popiilua— (pop'u-lus) . 

 Portulaca— (por-tQ-la'kA) . 

 Potentilla— (p6-ten-til'&) . 



PothoB — (pO'thos) . 

 Preecoz — (prg'koks) . 

 Pratensis — (pra-ten'sis) . 

 Primula — (prim'tt-lS,) . 

 Princeps — (prin'seps) . 

 Pritchardia— (pri-chftr'di-&) . 

 Privet — (pri'vet). 

 Procnmbens — (pr6-kum'ben z) . 

 Prothallium — (pro-thal'i-um) . 

 Prunus — (prb'nus) . 

 Pseudobulb— (sti'd6-bulb) . 

 Psidium — (sid'i-um) . 

 Psittacina — (8it-a-8l'n&) . 

 Ptarmica — (tar'mi-k&) . 

 Ptelea^(te'le-&). 

 Pteria— (te'ris). 



Ptychosperma — (ti-k5-sper'mi) . 

 Pubescens — (pii-bes'enz). 

 Puccinia — (puk-sin'i-&) . 

 Pudica — (pud'i-k&) . 

 Ptmctata — (pungk-ta'ti) . 

 Pongens — (pun' jenz) . 

 Pupa — (pu'p&). 

 PupsB — (pti pe). 

 Purpurea — (per-pti're-&) 

 P3rracantha — (pir-a-kan'th&) 

 Psrramidalis — (pi-ram-i-da'lis) 

 Pyrethrum — (pir'e-thrum) . 

 PjrruB — (pl'rus). 



Quercus — (kwer'kus) . 

 Quinquef olia — (k win -kwe- f 6' . 



Raceme — (ra-sem') . 

 Racemoga — (ras-e-mS'sa) 

 Bachis— (r&'kis). 

 Baflia— (raf'i-&). 



