.iiT'^.V-^. 



Mabcb 23, 1905. 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



100 



spinosiBsima or Scotch rose, which is very 

 hardy, and by again crossing with any 

 hardy H. P., always using the native 

 rose as seed bearer. A hybrid may be 

 raised that would not require protection 

 in winter. But this subject would have 

 to be taken up and worked out by men 

 with means and time, which the florists 

 and gardeners have not to spare for it. 

 I will now pass on to the hybrids with 

 which we are familiar. First in point of 

 numbers come the hybrid perpetual flow- 

 ering, but I should not put that first in 

 importance, as I consider that the new 

 hybrid teas are the roses of the future, 

 for freedom of flowering and beauty of 

 flower. They combine the H. P. and teas 

 , and I consider them an improvement on 

 both, having the broad petals of the H. 

 P. and the long bud of the tea, and they 

 open out well in water when cut in the 

 bud state in the morning. This is much 

 in their favor, as roses do not stand the 

 burning heat of a clear Canadian sum- 

 mer day very well. In addition to the 

 H. P. and H. T. there are hybrid China, 

 hybrid Bourbon, hybrid polyantha, hy- 

 brid rugosa and, last but not least, the 

 hybrid sweet brier, handed down to us 

 by Lord Penzance. 



Of the hybrid perpetuals I consider 

 the following the best for this place, hav- 

 ing proved them for two years, and some 

 have been here for ten years and are 

 strong and healthy now and throw oflf 

 some very fine flowers: Alfred Colomb, 

 Augustine Guinoisseau, Duke of Edin- 

 burgh, Gen. Jacqueminot, Henrich 

 Schultheis, Jules Margottin, John Hop- 

 per, La France, La France de '89, Frau 

 Karl Druschki, Margaret Dickson, Marie 

 Baumann, Marquis de Castellane, Mrs. 

 John Laing, Prince Camille de Bohan, 

 ■Reynolds Hole, Ulrich Brunner and Vic- 

 tor Hugo. 



Among hybrid teas I choose: Belle 

 Siebrecht, Bessie Brown, Kaiserin Au- 

 gusta Victoria, Mme. Chatenay, Caroline 

 Testout, Sov. du Pres. Carnot, Duchess 

 of Portland, Mildred Grant, Lady Moyra 

 Beauclerc, Antoine Eivoire, Lady Bat- 

 tersea and Marquise Litta. 



Of hardy teas and Noisettes I select 

 Anna Ollivier, Catherine Mermet, Fran- 

 cisca Kruger, Hon. Edith Giflford, Jean 

 Ducher, Mme. Hoste, Maman Cochet, L. 

 Ideale and Mme. Pierre Cochet. 



The best hybrid Bourbon is Mme. 

 Isaac Pierre and the best hybrid China 

 fiorts are Laurette, Messimy and Mme. 

 Eugene Besal. The best polyantha Ram- 

 blers are Thalia, Helene, Euphrosne 

 Crimson, Aglaia and Dorothy Perkins. 

 The best polyanthas are Anne Marie de 

 Montravel, Cecile Brunner, Gloire des 

 Polyantha, Mignonette, Perle de Or and 

 Paquerette. The best moss roses are 

 Blanch Moreau, Crested moss and Rosa 

 rugosa. Among crimson and white are 

 Striped Provence and York and Lancas- 

 ter. 



The new single tea roses of Messrs. 

 Dickson are a class by themselves and are 

 very free flowering; some of them are 

 Irish Beauty, Irish Modesty, Irish Pride, 

 Brightness, Star and Glory. They are 

 also' the beautiful sweet briers of Lord 

 Penzance. 



I know I have omitted a great many 

 good things but the foregoing varieties 

 would make up a very choice selection. 

 As regards culture, I consider roses 

 should have a garden to themselves m 

 any place, large or small. They want a 

 sheltered spot, but not under trees. Any 

 situation that has a wind-break will suit 

 them. They like plenty of air bu^jwiU 



The Late Charles T. Siebert. 



not stand the full force of a west wind 

 blowing them and bruising their young 

 shoots. The soil is a very important 

 item in rose culture. If the natural soil 

 is very light I would advise that some 

 very heavy clay loam be well mixed with 

 it. If the light soil can be removed al- 

 together, BO much the better, and a com- 

 post of loam and rotted manure made to 

 take its place. The ground should be 

 trenched two and a half feet deep and 

 cow manure mixed with the subsoil and 

 then eighteen inches of the compost put 

 over the surface. The autumn is the 

 best time to prepare the ground — and 

 the spring to plant. 



While planting have at hand a barrow- 

 ful of soil well pulverized, make a hole 

 for each plant and use the soil to plant 

 in, taking care the roots do not come in 

 contact with any manure. Many failures 

 result from this cause, as when the plant 

 throws out young roots they strike the 

 manure instead of soil and, the manure 

 being too strong for them, they just die 

 away again. Deep planting should be 

 avoided. This often causes failure. It 

 is better too light than too deep. As 

 far as I have been able to judge, the 

 union of the plant should be about an 

 inch below the surface of the soil. Of 

 course I am speaking of roses on seed- 

 ling briers or brier cuttings, stock 

 which I consider the best to use. The 

 roots should be cut back with a sharp 

 knife to about nine inches and bruised 

 or broke;n roots removed altogether. 

 After planting, the ground rouiid the 

 plants should be made as firm as possible 

 by treading. 



Now for pruning. This again requires 

 care, and judgment. If the plant is 

 pruned too hard there will be too many 

 blind shoots robbing the plant and do- 

 ing no good. If the plant be at all weak- 

 ly it will require harder pruning, but a 

 vigorous strong plant would possibly do 

 best with lighter treatment. I think 

 pruning should^be^done^as^arly as pos- 



sible; that is, as soon as they can possi- 

 bly be uncovered. If the sap is flowing 

 freely the plant will bleed badly and 

 weaken itself. It is impossible to say 

 exactly when to uncover the roses, but 

 the end of March, a fortnight earlier or 

 later, according to season, is about right. 

 I will not deal with insect pests, as 

 you are all familiar with them, and the 

 remedies. Our mode of covering for the 

 winter has been to first bank up the 

 plants with six or eight inches of soil, 

 taken from between the rows, then peg 

 down the shoots in a row, or tie the first 

 one to a stake and tie each rose to its 

 neighbor. Then put on a heavy mulch 

 of strawy manure, with the droppings 

 well shaken out of it. This is to pre- 

 vent heating should the weather turn 

 mild. It is better to uncover as early 

 as possible after the snow goes. Soses 

 will bear 15 to 20 degrees of frost. 



THE LATE CHAS. T. SIEBERT. 



Charles T. Siebert was bom in Pitts- 

 burg, June 28, 1852. and died March 7, 

 1905. Mr. Siebert, after leaving college, 

 tried the jewelry business, but having a 

 great love for plants and flowers, soon 

 went with Peter Henderson to learn the 

 florists ' business. He started in the busi- 

 ness for himself early in the seventies on 

 Stanton avenue, Pittsburg, and continued 

 in the same location until his death. 

 While he made a specialty of carnations, 

 he took great pride in a finely construct- 

 ed greenhouse and introduced many orig- 

 inal ideas, among others the Siebert 

 glazing point, which has been on the 

 market for some years. He had been ail- 

 ing with a nervous complaint for several 

 years, but probably owing to his bright, 

 cheery disposition, his death was never 

 thought of and came as a shock to his 

 many friends. He left a wife, two sons 

 and one daughter. He left behind him 

 the reputation of a man who never did 

 another an injury, and who was alway»- 



