184 



The Weekly Florists'^ Review.^ 



JUNB 15. 1005. 



the old plants in. oQe Aat; and the next 

 size in another flat and bo on. This is 

 economy of space. . We noticed , this 

 spring that ovir park department win- 

 tered many thousands of secunda glauca 

 in deep cold frames, protected with mats. 

 They received no water at all during 

 winter and came through in fine shape. 

 To get up a stock of these bedding 

 echeverias buy what strong plants you 

 can and plant out at once. You will get 

 a lot of shoots in the fall and, if de- 

 sirous of getting up a large stock, you 

 can propagate by the leaves. Lift the 

 plants in October and box in dry, sandy 

 soil. A month or two later carefully 

 twist the leaves from the stems, a few 



from each. There is a latent bud at the 

 axle of the leaf and if that is not re- 

 moved with the leaf you will get no 

 plant. Put two inches of sand in a 4- 

 ineh pot and place the leaves around the 

 edge of the pot, each with the base only 

 deep enough to keep it upright. Give no 

 water until the roots appear. When the 

 little plants are formed and large enough 

 to handle, place them in flats of sandy 

 soil and be careful not to over-water. 

 These little plants can be kept warmer 

 during winter than the larger and older 

 plants, because you wjadt them to in- 

 crease in size, while with the older bed- 

 ding size you only want to keep them 

 dormant. W. S. 



IMPORTANCE OF VENTILATION. 



Now that firing has practically to b« 

 abandoned and we are liable to have 

 many sudden fluctuations of tempera- 

 tures, accompanied by cold rains, great 

 care should be taken that mildew does 

 not get a foothold among the young 

 stock, as the effect of a dose of this 

 pest on newly planted stock is very 

 debilitating and diflicult to get rid of 

 without causing injury to the plants. 



As a preventive there is nothing to 

 equal a plentiful supply of fresh air 

 judiciously administered, and if the art 

 of ventilation is properly understood 

 and carefully attended to, there will be 

 less need of sulphur or any of the other 

 mixtures recommended for this purpose. 



To derive the full benefit from venti- 

 lation it must be carefully studied, tak- 

 ing all the attending conditions into 

 consideration and avoiding at all times 

 a sudden raising or lowering of tem- 

 perature, both of which are very in- 

 jurious at this season, as the foliage is 

 of such rapid growth and development 

 that it must of necessity be very soft 

 and susceptible to injury. 



Above all, pay particular attention 

 to night ventilation, as many crops 

 which are otherwise well handled are 

 Rimply ruined by carelessness or igno- 

 •ance in this respect. 



During I the summer there should al- 

 ways H^from four to six inches of ven- 

 tilation during the night (unless when 

 wind or rain compels shutting down) 

 even if it requires some firing to keep 

 up the temperature, and it will pay 

 to have a man in charge who thorough- 

 ly understands this and has energy 

 enough to apply it. During the day 

 ventilation is not so liable to be neg- 

 lected, but even then care and judg- 

 ment are required to carry it out judi- 

 ciously. 



During the early hours, when cutting 

 is being attended to, the temperature is 

 liable to take a run up. This should 

 be guarded against, as any abnormal 

 heat during the early part of the day, 

 when the plants have just emerged 

 from their rest, has the effect of soften- 

 ing growth, bud and foliage, and if this 

 is continued morning after morning, as 

 I have frequently observed it, the most 

 careful treatment during the rest of 

 the day will not overcome the injury 

 done and this sort of treatment will be 

 certain to bring its troubles when cold 

 weather commences and firing has 

 again to be resorted to. 



In order to guard against accidents 



it is advisable, however, to use the sul- 

 phur blower at least once a week and 

 have the sulphur paint put on the pipes 

 on every occasion when there is need 

 of a fire. Then by shutting down for 

 half an hour or so, even though the 

 temperature runs up to 100 degrees, the 

 liberated fumes will kill any germs that 

 may have got a start. 



By careful and persistent use of these 

 methods the danger from mildew will 

 be in a great measure restricted, and, 

 as all growers know what a trouble- 

 some pest, it is, especially ■ during the 

 summer months, every sort of precau- 

 tion should be adopted to suppress it. 



ElBES. 



ROSE RUST. 



Enclosed please find foliage which was 

 cut from an outdoor rose bush. There is 

 a scale or bug on it and we would like 

 to know what this scale or bug is, and a 

 remedy for it. R. L. 



After a careful examination I fail to 

 detect any scale or bug on the specimen 

 sent, but find that it is thickly infested 

 with rose rust (Phragenedium subcorti- 

 cum) in the aecidia form. This fungus 

 very rarely attacks indoor roses, but in 

 some districts is very prevalent on hardy 

 hybrids. It also infests wild roses and 

 these are often the cause of infection. 



This form of the fungus usually ap- 

 pears late in spring or early summer and 

 is distinguished oy forming orange yel- 

 low powdery spots on the young twigs, 

 leaves and leaf stalks. These spots be- 

 come darker in color and larger as the 

 summer advances and at this stage the 

 mycelium, by feeding on the inner tis- 

 sues of the plant, causes malformation 

 of the shoots and leaves. 



The best remedy is to cut off all af- 

 fected leaves and twigs and burn them. 

 In early spring, and before the buus ex- 

 pand, the plants should be tnoroughly 

 washed with a solution of copper in 

 water. For immediate use try Bordeaux 

 mixture and syringe thoroughly. 



ElBES. 



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THE RETAIL 



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FLORIST. 



A WORD FOR DOROTHY PERKINS 



Dorothy Perkins, the light pink Ram- 

 bler, the craft generally seems to have 

 been rather slow about taking up as a 

 forcing rose. I have ured it as an 

 Easter pot plant five seasons with uni- 

 formly satisfactory results. I have al- 

 ways found it a very good seller and 

 niLich more satisfactory in every way 

 than the Crimson Rambler, as much 

 smaller plants may be had to bloom well 

 in small pots, which makes it much 

 more useful in many ways. 



Always having had a high opinion of 

 it as a cut flower for decorative pur- 

 poses, last fall I benched a number of 

 plants in an old pit or lean-to, where 

 they have been grown with very little 

 artificial heat. That bench has been 

 simply glorious. It furnished a tre- 

 mendous lot of splendid flowers and we 



have cut from this bench in quantity for 

 thirty days, commencing May 5, and we 

 have a few hundred clusters still left. 



The value of this rose for decorative 

 purposes lies first in its exquisite color, 

 a clear shell pink, which is good at all 

 times and in all lights. A secondary con- 

 sideration is its gracefulness and light- 

 ness, which makes it very easy to arrange 

 and put up in almost any place. Third, 

 you never need be afraid of its shed- 

 ding its flowers, which the Crimson 

 Kambler does. 



We have used it for most varied pur- 

 poses. The most beautiful bridesmaids' 

 bouquets I ever saw, the most exquisite 

 wreaths for funeral purposes, or the most 

 elaborate table decorations were made 

 of it. It can be used in garland fash- 

 ion for windows, etc., always with the 

 most satisfactory results. 



