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306 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



June 29. 1905. 



of stoke hole, etc., it would be impossi- 

 ble to give directions where the heating 

 pipes should be, so we can only give some 

 general principles. 



First, keep your heater down as low 

 as possible. If the top of the heater is 

 four or five feet below the heating pipes 

 in the houses, so much the better. Money 

 spent in excavating and draining a deep 

 stoke hole will save you tons of coal every 

 winter. 



Second, do not use any pipes, either 

 flow or return, less than 2 -inch. 



Third, put in enough pipes so that you 

 will have no need to fire hard except in 

 the very coldest weather, and in moder- 

 ately cold spells you will be comfortable 

 and save coal. This means a heater of 

 surplus capacity and sufficient radiation 

 so that the pipes do not have to be at 

 boiling heat. 



Fourth, do not let the flow pipes be 

 higher than the plate on the side wall. 

 Pipes put above the plants and near the 

 roof are pure waste. 



Fifth, rise with the flow and fall witB 

 the return as nearly perpendicular as pos- 

 sible to the level of the heating pipes in 

 the house. In the heating pipes rise at 

 the rate of three inches in 100 feet to the 

 end of the house and at the highest point 

 tap in a pet cock to let out any air, which 

 will always be found at the highest point. 

 Or here is another plan which is just as 

 good and does not need watching: In 

 place of a pet cock tap in a ^^-inch pipe 

 and let it run up a foot or so higher 

 than your feeding cistern in the boiler 

 shed. If you feed your heater from a 

 large tank overhead, or from your water 

 system, and it is constantly on, then of 

 course for air pipes you would use the pet 

 cock. We have one small system where 

 the city pressure (thirty-five pounds to 

 the square inch) is continually on the 

 heater, with pet cocks at the highest 

 points, and it is the most satisfactory and 



economical of all systems, but cast-iron 

 heaters won't generally stand that 

 amount of pressure. 



Sixth, do not let the returns be of more 

 than double the capacity of the flows; 

 that is, if you had two 2-inch flows on 

 each side of the house, then four 2-inch 

 pipes for returns on each side is enough. 

 Of course, if they are equal, none the 

 worse, but you can let the returns be 

 double the flows. 



Seventh, without knowing your houses 

 more than ground measure, we would 

 say for a house sixteen feet wide five 2- 

 inch pipes on each side would be suffi- 

 cient. For the house twenty-four feet 

 wide there should be nine 2-inch pipes on 

 each side, or the equal of this. Not that 

 the pipes need be all on the sides; the 

 more they are distributed through the 

 house, the better the results. Two heat- 

 ing pipes, no matter what size, two or 

 three feet apart, are equal to three of the 

 same size bunched close together. This 

 principle in heating, either with steam or 

 hot water, is not recognized as much as 

 it should be. 



I notice that W. S. L. asks for tem- 

 perature of roses. All rose specialists 

 agree that 55 to 58 degrees is the cor- 

 rect night winter temperature. One au- 

 thority says 55 degrees. Another pro- 

 duces grand roses and many of them at 

 56 degrees. If you are attentive enough 

 to keep your house at 56 degrees you 

 will be doing splendidly and must look 

 somewhere else for your failure. 



W. S. 



CANE CLIPS. 



Several seasons ago Bibes in his rose 

 notes in the Beview commented on the 

 fact that a certain wire cane clip which 

 he described was a great improvement 

 over twine for attaching rose stakes to 

 the overhead wires. During the present 



season this clip is being put on the mar- 

 ket by the manufacturers, B. Si Blake & 

 Son, Bochester, and is being widely 

 adopted by rose and chrysanthemum 

 growers. The clips are very inexpensive, 

 quickly attached and removed and hold 

 the stake just where you want it. 



CALLA BULBS. 



Please allow me to reply to your 

 correspondent, H. H., who writes as 

 follows: I have a lot of calla lilies 

 planted on benches and some in pots 

 from last winter. Where do you think 

 is the best place to keep the roots dur- 

 ing summer and when is the proper 

 time to plant them again in order to 

 get a good crop of lilies for Christmas? 

 Which variety do you advise as the 

 best for big flowering lilies? 



Having grown, cured and prepared 

 calla bulbs for eastern florists I have 

 often wondered why they do not cure 

 their old bulbs and use them over 

 again. I would like to have some one 

 pursue the following instructions. I 

 believe the old bulbs will multiply and 

 be as good as fresh ones: 



When the new bulbs arrive from Cali- 

 fornia, about August 1, select one of 

 the short, thick-crowned variety (not 

 the long bulb with a narrow^ crown), 

 with a new sprout about one and one- 

 half inches long. Plant in a 10-inch 

 pot, water profusely, sometimes adding 

 ammonia. In six weeks it will bloom. 

 Continue the forcing process until 

 Easter; it may send forth several 

 blooms from newly formed bulbs. When 

 they have bloomed allow the plant to 

 die down. When the leaves become 

 yellow cut all the top ofif to one inch 

 of the bulb. Set away in a perfectly 

 dry place until about August, when 

 you will notice new sprouts. Trans- 



Violet House, of the Second Type« Made of Sash 3x6; Side and End Boards Not Yet Nailed On. 



