July 19, 1906. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



5J5 



CARNATION NOTES.-EAST. 



Advance Preparation. 



In reality there is no dull season for 

 the carnation grower, unless it is in 

 the matter of returns, and that is at 

 about this time, when all attention can 

 be given to future stock. Do not forget, 

 however,' to prepare a suitable place in 

 which to grow next year's batch of 

 young stock. 



For many reasons this is an excellent 

 time for this work. The carnation is 

 not over-fond of fresh manure, nor is 

 a young plant capable of doing its best 

 on recently turned sod. Corn or some 

 other strong growing farm crop can 

 manage very well under this treatment, 

 but the divine flower is of finer grain; 

 so if the land you have in mind is in 

 sod, by all means spread the manure and 

 plow this summer. Frequent cultiva- 

 tion with a disc or cutaway harrow will 

 put the soil in fine condition to receive 

 a sowing of crimson clover or other 

 cover crop, for under no circumstances 

 leave the suriace bare over winter. 



Summer plowing and cultivation will 

 destroy many cutworms, pests that have 

 caused us much trouble in times past. 

 The best remedy seems to be a mixture 

 of bran, molasses and Paris green, in 

 the proportion of 100 pounds bran, one 

 pint molasses, one pound Paris green 

 and enough water to moisten. Spread 

 this mixture evenly over an acre of 

 ground. 



Perhaps you are growing some other 

 crop on the location in question; if so, 

 contrive to get in the seed of a cover 

 <Top at the last cultivation. We prefer 

 erimson clover, as it grows fast in early 

 spring, decays quickly when plowed 

 under, and gives us nitrogen at low 

 cost; if used on land having no crop the 

 seed can be sown later than if the 

 ground is occupied. The middle of July 

 to the first part of August has given 

 us the best results, the point being to 

 sow at such time as will allow sufficient 

 development for the clover to withstand 

 winter but not to bloom in the fall. 



Some growers are obliged to use the 

 same piece of ground another year, and 

 while this practice cannot be recom- 

 mended, with extra care we need have 

 little fear of results; this is more es- 

 pecially true since the plan of early 

 housing has come into practice, the 

 fhance is offered to restore the soil more 

 nearly to its original condition. Much 

 depends on the health of the plants 

 grown there this year, but in any event 

 '>e extremely particular when through 

 Hfting to clear the field of all plants 

 <^r parts thereof, healthy or otherwise, 

 for if left to decay they only invite 

 disease. 



Plow as soon as the land is clear, 

 ^PPly a generous coat of air-slaked or 

 pulverized lime, allowing the surface to 

 remain rough; in a week or ten days 

 ^Pply manure, cross plow and treat as 

 you would land in sod. 



As before stated, this using the same 



piece of ground two years in succession 

 is not in line with up-to-date carnation 

 culture, but having been up against this 

 proposition myself, the result of ex- 

 perience is passed along. 



At the present time we are having 

 ideal conditions for the growth of plants 

 in the field— warm days and cool nights. 

 If thorough cultivation has been kept up 

 you ought to have a grand lot of plants 

 to lift and that very soon. 



Geo. S. Osbobn. 



CYANIDE FUMIGATION. 



Please state the amount of cyanide 

 of potassium to use to safely fumigate 

 a house of carnations for thrips, that is, 

 state the quantity for 1,000 cubic feet 

 of space. Should the cyanide be dropped 

 into the sulphuric acid full strength or 

 should the acid be diluted with water! 

 Also please state the strength of a com- 

 mon salt solution in water, to use for 

 spraying carnations for red spider. 



H. F. C. 



On page 461 in the issue of the Ke- 

 viEW dated July 12, Mr. Scott (W. S.) 

 gives a complete plan for fumigating 

 with hydrocyanic acid gas. In it you 

 will find the proper quantity to use and 

 the proper way to mix it. I do want 

 to caution you to be careful that you 

 do not breathe any of the gas. Arrange 

 to let the cyanide into the jar from out- 

 side with a string run through a hole 

 in the roof. 



For syringing carnations with salt 

 water dissolve a 6-inch pot of the com- 

 mon salt in ten gallons of water. I think 

 you will find the soap solution more ef- 

 fective than salt, however. Don't spray 

 too often with the salt water. Once in 

 a week to ten days is often enough. 



A. F. J. Baur. 



CARNATION NOTES.- VEST. 



Housing the Plants. 



If your houses are ready and the 

 plants are of fair size, it is not at all 

 too early to begin bringing them in, 

 providing conditions are favorable. The 

 plants should not only be of fair size, 

 but they should be in that semi-hardened 

 condition that they are apt to be in after 

 a week or two of dry, bright weather. 

 Some years ago we used to imagine that 

 if a plant stood up crisp and full of 

 sap, it was in proper condition to lift, 

 providing it had rained within a few 

 days. This is just the opposite of what 

 we now know to be the ideal condition. 

 Such a plant will wilt badly and suffer 

 severely, especially if a hot spell sets 

 in soon after lifting. If you have had 

 abundant rains lately, then don't be in 

 a hurry about housing the plants. Wait 

 for a dry spell, when the rapid growth 

 will be checked and the plants will 

 harden up some. Then the plants vnll 

 wilt but little, and when the roots get 

 into the moist soil they will take hold 

 eagerly, and the whole batch will start 

 to growing at once. Less foliage will 

 be lost, too. 



Supposing conditions are ideal and you 

 decide to plant; there are many details 

 you must be careful about in order to 

 have complete success. Put a good, 

 heavy shade on your house, of some ma- 

 terial that will wash off readily. We 

 have used a clay wash with good suc- 

 cess, but some kinds of clay will leave 

 a deposit on the glass which is hard to 

 get off, especially if it has to be put 

 on the second time in case of rain. We 

 have about come to the conclusion that 

 a wash made of air-slaked lime is about 

 as good as anything. A couple of rains 

 will take it off clean. Spray it on with 

 a hand syringe, such as I have described 

 repeatedly. 



Preparing the SoiL 



The day before you expect to plant see 

 that the soil is in proper condition in 

 regard to moisture. If too dry, water 

 it and see that it is wet clear to the 

 bottom. Nothing could be worse than 

 to plant in soil that is dry at the bot- 

 tom. The soil should not be wet, but 

 it should be moist enough to press to- 

 getlier firmly when you plant, about the 

 same as you want it when potting. If 

 it is too wet it will pack and 

 bake when it dries out; if it is 

 too dry it will draw the moisture 

 from the roots instead of supplying it 

 to them, and you will find it difficult to 

 water through it without making a mud 

 of the whole bench. Dampen the walks 

 and under the benches, so as to have 

 as much moisture in the atmosphere 

 as possible. If there is a high wind you 

 had better lower the ventilators some. 

 The plants stand a high temperature bet- 

 ter than they can draughts. 



Treatment in the House. 



When planting the broad benches 

 stretch a line down the middle of each 

 from end to end. For any man with 

 a straight eye this is enough to keep 

 all the rows straight lengthwise. Use 

 a pole with notches cut in it at proper 

 distance to guide the planter in spac- 

 ing the rows. When setting the plants 

 in the bed, set the larger ones in the 

 center rows and the smaller ones along 

 the edge. If any of them are extremely 

 small put two of them together. Make 

 a hole large enough so you can set the 

 ball of soil in and fill around with loose 

 soil; then press firmly all around, level- 

 ing off with loose soil. Leave a slight 

 depression close around the plant to 

 water in the first few times; not so deep 

 that the plant will set too deep when 

 the soil is stirred and leveled later on, 

 but just enough to hold what water you 

 give each plant. I don't like to water 

 the whole bed until the syringing can 

 be dispensed with, when the roots have 

 become active. If the soil and atmos- 

 phere are moist you don't need to water 

 every time a hundred plants are set in, 

 but water what you have planted about 

 once every hour or so. Spray lightly a 

 number of times during the middle of 

 the day. Do not drench the plants, but 

 let it be more like a mist. 



Treatment While Shifting. 



Out in the field have a careful man 

 to do the digging, and see that he forces 

 the spade down deep enough to get all 

 the roots. Every large root that is 

 broken off means additional suffering 

 for the plant. Have enough men to 

 follow him right up, gathering up the 

 plants in trays. Let them reduce the ball 

 of soil to about the size of your fist, if 

 the soil will stick together. If it all 



