1050 



The Weekly Florists' Review^ 



8ui>ii::MUJ::ii 13, 1906. 



retreat for the Union depot to join our 

 party to go farther west, after spending 

 one of the most pleasant and profitable 

 of days. 



"Having always been in favor of our 

 national convention reaching out, I feel 

 now more than ever that one of the best 

 moves the society could make would be 

 to hold a convention in Denver in the 

 near future. 



"In the midst of the Kocky Moun- 



tains we were again impressed by the 

 clear color and wonderful beauty of the 

 columbine, which grows wild in great 

 profusiuii on the mountain tops, also the 

 forget-me-nots of vivid blue, growing in 

 the highest altitude, far above the tim- 

 ber line. At Colorado Springs and Mani- 

 tou, we also noticed that the western 

 people put forth more effort in produc- 

 ing beautiful lawns and gardens than do 

 our eastern people." 



but after that let them come. No cut- 

 ting back need be done when planting 

 from the pots into the bed, as the check 

 will be too slight to affect the bloom- 

 ing shoots any. Use a tolerably light 

 soil for the potting, so the roots will 

 work through it as quickly as possible. 



A. F. J. B. 



FALL TREATMENT. 



L have a greenhouse stocked with car- 

 nations, and I find that in the short 

 days of winter the dwelling house shades 

 the morning sun, and the barn shades 

 the evening sun, so that on clear days 

 the house only gets sun from 9 o'clock 

 till 4 o'clock. How should I treat these 

 plants? Should I top any after they 

 are planted in? I want a full crop for 

 Christmas. Last year I kept them 

 topped back about a month after bench- 

 ing, and they didn't flower much till 

 the last of January. Pink Lawson and 

 Enchantress are the kinds I have the 

 most of. How should I treat them un- 

 der the shaded conditions! D. & S. 



If your carnations get the full sun 

 from 9 until 4 o'clock during the short- 

 est days, you should have little trouble 

 in getting a fair crop of blooms from 

 them. Up to 9 a. m. the sun has but 

 little strength, and after 4 p. m. it 

 amounts to little during December, Jan- 

 uary and February. There are few if 

 any changes you can make in the treat- 

 ment beyond close attention in water- 

 ing and ventilating. Both of these re- 

 quire careful attention during midwin- 

 ter anyway. 



I do not advise you to top the plants 

 back now any more, if they are fairly 

 well branched. Your crop for Christ- 

 mas should be in full swing if you have 

 the plants established now, and starting 

 up a crop of blooming shoots. Let them 

 come right along. If any of the plants 

 are starting up a number of shoots, so 

 that no short shoots remain on the plants 

 to follow later, you can prolong the 

 crop by topping back a part of these 

 blooming shoots. Of course, the cut will 

 be lighter, but it will be steadier through 

 the season, which oftentimes is more de- 

 sirable than an extra heavy crop of 

 short duration. A. F. J. B. 



LATE PLANTING. 



We are going to build a carnation 

 house, but cannot get it finished until 

 October 1. Can we pot field-grown plants 

 BOW and transplant them to the benches 

 by October 10 successfully f What size 

 pots do you suggest? Any other infor- 

 mation will be thankfully received. 



E. D. 



Yes, you cau work the plan you sug- 

 gest to good advantage, only the pot- 

 ting should have been done a month ago 

 to get the best results. Then the plants 

 would become thoroughly established in 



the pots before being transplanted in 

 the beds, and the check would amount to 

 practically nothing. If potted now they 

 will hardly become pot-bound before 

 they will have to be replanted. But 

 in spite of that it will be far better 

 than to leave them in the field until 

 October. You will have a good crop of 

 blooms much earlier, although you may 

 not make it for Christmas. 



If potted by August 20 a good crop 

 could be had by the holidays. Use as 

 small a pot as will hold the roots com- 

 fortably. I suggest 4-inch and 5-inch 

 pots, according to the size of the plants 

 and roots. The 4-inch will hold any- 

 thing except the largest of plants. Take 

 off the shoots that have run up much, 



TIME FOR GLAZING. 



I planted some carnations in a new 

 house I am building about August 20. 

 The house is not yet glazed. Would it 

 be better to get the glass on as quickly 

 as possible, or will they do just as well 

 if I put the glazing off until later? 

 Should the buds that are on the plants 

 now bo pinched off? B. A. B. 



There is no special hurry about get- 

 ting the glass on your new house as long 

 as the weather remains warm, but you 

 will do well to get it on before any 

 frosts occur. If the plants are growing 

 well, they will be benefited by the cool 

 outside atmosphere. "While a few de- 

 grees of frost will not injure the growth 

 of a carnation plant, it will injure a 

 flower bud materially. In our cUmate 1 

 should consider the latter half of this 

 month a good time to put on the glass. 

 You will find that the stems will come 

 longer when the glass is on, and you 

 will want to give them a little time to 

 get accustomed to the changed condi- 

 tions before winter sets in. I don't 

 know how large your house is, or how 

 long it will take to glaze it, so I will 

 say, don't put it off too long. 



A. P. J. B. 



REQUIREMENTS OF ROSES. 



[A paper by John H. Danlop, of Toronto, read 

 l)efore the Canadian Horticnltaral Atsoclation at 

 Guelpb, Ont., August 80, 1906.] 



The subject assigned me, or that I am 

 asked to speak upon, is one of consider- 

 able magnitude, "A Beview of Koses to 

 Present Date, and Their Bequirements. " 

 At first glance it would seem an easy 

 task, but as one analyzes the subject, 

 the first question to confront you is, are 

 all soils alike? Are all conditions simi- 

 lar? Do all growers handle their plants 

 in a similar manner? The answer to 

 each of these questions is a positive 

 "No." Then in that case the paper 

 will deal entirely with the conditions, soil, 

 etc., as existing at my greenhouses, and 

 as far as I am able to learn through in- 

 tercourse with those growing the varie- 

 ties enumerated, and of the forcing va- 

 rieties now grown under glass for cut 

 flowers. 



Difficulties in Rose Colttire. 



The rose growers have not been fa- 

 vored, as other branches of the profes- 

 sion have, in the number of varieties 

 put upon the market or disseminated by 

 originators each season. Look at the 

 list of carnations and chrysanthemums; 

 in fact, the number of varieties that 

 have remained permanent or standard 

 forcing varieties have been compara- 

 tively few. 



There are so many points required in 

 a rose to make it profitable; probably 

 it is a good grower, but the color may 

 not be right; the flower may be too 

 single, or too double to open freely; in 

 winter it may have a tendency to be 

 weak-stemmed in dark weather, or a shy 

 bloomer at the same season. There are 

 so many points to be considered in a 

 forcing variety, that there" are few that 

 come up to the requirements of the ideal 

 flower. 



Look back for the last ten years, 

 which is a comparatively short time, and 

 note how many varieties have been in- 

 troduced, with glowing descriptions, and 

 how many are grown today. The major- 

 ity have been tested, found wanting and 



