NOVEAlBKll 22, 190G. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



PREPARATION FOR GRAFTING. 



Those who contemplate using grafted 

 stock for next season's planting should 

 now make arrangements for the requisite 

 supply of stocks, as it will soon be time 

 to begin preparing these for work. The 

 imported dormant stocks will soon be 

 arriving and these should be potted im- 

 mediately, so as to give them ample time 

 to form good roots without having to. 

 subject them to heat before being op- 

 erated on, as they are very impatient of 

 heat when first potted. 



A 2% -inch pot is usually large enough 

 for potting Manetti, but where the roots 

 are too large for this size a little judi- 

 cious root pruning does no harm. After 

 potting firmly after the usual manner of 

 potting any other rose, they should be 

 watered thoroughly and placed in a 

 house with a temperature not to exceed 

 35 degrees or 40 degrees, and where they 

 will not be exposed to the full rays of 

 the sun. 



The best success I ever had with Ma- 

 netti stocks was when I placed them for 

 a few weeks in an old, disused mushroom 

 house. This house seemed to possess 

 about the requisite amount of moisture 

 to keep the stocks in good condition till 

 root action had commenced. 



They require little watering between 

 the time they are potted and the time 

 they are required for use. Syringe them 

 overhead occasionally to keep the bark 

 in good condition. By this method they 

 will form nice, fibrous roots, ready to go 

 to work on the first application of heat, 

 while the eyes will remain unbroken. 



To the care bestowed on them during 

 this period can be ascribed a good part 

 of the success or failure of the grafting 

 operation, as it is obvious that a stock 

 having just the requisite flow of sap to 

 sustain the scion must be more suited to 

 its purpose than stocks with either too 

 much or too little. 



Grafting operations usually do not be- 

 gin until after the holidays, so I will re- 

 serve my remarks on this method of 

 propagation till that season. Eibes. 



CLIMBING ROSE TAUSENDSCHON. 



This beautiful climbing rose is the 

 result of several crosses between the 

 well-known Crimson Rambler with tea 

 and polyantha roses. It surpasses all 

 existing sorts of its section concerning 

 growth, foliage and beauty of blooms. 

 The stems are nearly (sometimes entire- 

 ly) thornless, of much stronger growth 

 than Crimson Rambler, with shining 

 green foliage. The flowers appear from 



the beginning of June till the end of 

 July, in large, loose clusters. Each in- 

 dividual flower is in shape like a balsam 

 flower, measuring more than one inch in 

 diameter. When beginning to bloom they 

 show a lovely soft pink color; later on 

 the somewhat curled petals assume a car- 

 mine rose color, when in full bloom giv- 

 ing the appearance of two different va- 

 rieties. Tor floral work Tausendschon 

 is very useful. Further important is its 

 hardiness and its being almost impervi- 

 ous to mildew. It was raised by J. C. 

 Schmidt, Erfurt, Germany. 



PLACE FOR THERMOMETER. 



Will you kindly inform me whether it 

 is proper to hang a thermometer in the 

 sun or shade to go by in a rose-house? 

 Also what temperature is needed to grow 

 Bride and Bridesmaid roses. I. R. 



The main object to be attained in 

 hanging a thermometer in a house is that 

 it shall act as an indicator of the true 

 temperature oH the body of air contained 

 therein, and consequently it should be so 

 placed where it will best effect the pur- 

 pose. Placing an instrument in a shady 

 corner would only show the temperature 

 of that particular place and not the tem- 

 perature of the house which is desired. 



By hanging an instrument where it 

 would be exposed to the direct rays of 

 the sun would also make it no true indi- 

 cntor, as the tube and metal would be 

 heated far above the house temperature. 

 The instrument should be hung in an 

 open-faced box with its back towards the 

 sun. 



The temperature best suited for Brides 

 and Bridesmaids is 56 degrees to 58 de- 

 grees at night, allowing it to run up to 

 75 degrees or 80 degrees in the day, ac- 

 cording to intensity of sunshine. During 

 cloudy weather the day temperature 

 should range from 60 degrees to 65 de- 

 grees under ordinary conditions. 



RiBES. 



SPIDER AND MILDEW. 



I am enclosing some rose foliage and 

 would like you to tell me what is wrong 

 with my plants. They seem quite green 

 and in good health, but as soon as I 

 touch a plant the foliage seems to drop 

 off, leaving the branches bare; and the 

 growths seem to die at the points. I 

 used the best of sod, piling it up early 

 in the spring, a layer of sod and then a 

 layer of cow manure, leaving it until it 

 was well rotted. Please tell me what to 

 do. M. E. A. 



This method of forwarding for exam- 

 ination flowers and leaves by mail is un- 

 satisfactory, as they usually arrive in 

 such a dried-up condition that they are 

 useless for the purpose, and this case is 

 no exception to the ruled! j .'•^^i ,'3' J 



The most probable cause of this trou- 

 ble is a sudden check, either to root ac- 

 tion or a heavy chill to the foliage, in 

 all probability the latter, from the evi- 

 dence to be obtained from the accompa- 

 nying letter. 



By a careful examination of the leaves 

 I cannot find any trace of disease, but 

 there are indisputable evidences of both 

 red spider and mildew. In order to re- 

 store these plants to health great care 

 must be taken in watering until good 

 root action is .igain established, running 

 them rather on the dry side for a week 

 or two, but keep the syringe going on 

 every bright forenoon. 



Keep a steady night temperature of 

 56 degrees or 58 degrees, with a day 

 temperature of from 60 degrees during 

 cloudy weather up to 80 degrees during 

 bright sun, giving ventilation whenever 

 possible. Do not attempt to feed until 

 the plants have recovered and be care- 

 ful not to fumigate heavily. Ribes. 



TROUBLE WITH KILLARNEY. 



Enclosed I send you some leaves of 

 Killarney rose. I would like to know 

 if this is a disease or natural with this 

 rose at this time of year. They are los- 

 ing all the leaves except the young 

 growth, which is rather weak. I had an 

 attack of black-spot on all the roses on 

 a bench planted with Beauty, Killarney, 

 General MacArthur, Bride and Golden 

 Gate. They all grew strong and healthy, 

 especially Killarney, until this disease 

 attacked them. The genuine black-spot, 

 as I know it, with a big, dark spot on 

 the leaves, soon disappeareu after 1 

 treated them according to your prescrip- 

 tion, but the Killarney keep losing their 

 leaves, some when green, but most turn 

 yellow. The root seems healthy and 

 thick netted in the grounu. Can a big 

 elm tree growing next to the house, which 

 seems to be full of black-spot, be the 

 cause of this disease? The leaves were 

 continually blowing onto the roses 

 through the ventilators. A week before 

 the roses went back on me I gave them 

 a half -inch mulching, half clay soil and 

 cow manure sifted, a little slaked lime 

 and wood ashes, about half gallon of 

 each to 300 square feet. The roses are 

 almost too willing to make flower buds 

 on the many weak sprouts. Would it be 

 best to pinch those off? My idea has 

 been to let them have it their own way 

 till some change for the better appears. 



J. N. 



When these leaves reached me they 

 were so dried up that it was impossible 

 to diagnose the case from any evidence 

 they could supply. 



Killarney has a habit of shedding the 

 ■older foliage during the late fall, and 

 especially is this the case when root ac- 

 tion is checked by any cause. The most 

 common cause of this is allowing the 

 temperature to get low during the night, 

 when the condensation settles on the 

 leaves. This variety seems even more 

 susceptible to trouble from this source 

 than any other variety I know. Mulch- 

 ing during dark weather, or when the 

 plants are not strong enough to have 

 filled the bench with roots, might also 

 arrest root action and bring about the 

 same results. 



I do not think the elm leaves would 

 have any injurious effects on the foliage, 

 but it is best to at all times keep the 

 surface of the soil clean. 



Wood ashes is a very concentrated 

 form of food and should be applied spar 



