The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



November 22, 1906. 



ingly, especially to young plants, and 

 could not have been necessary when ap- 

 plying a rich mulch of half an inch in 

 thickness. Feed rather more sparingly 

 until after the short days are over. 

 Light and frequent feeding is much safer 

 than big doses at long intervals. 



BiBES. 



HOV TO BUD ROSES. 



Assuming the bark is in good condi- 

 tion, it is essential to remove all thorns 

 from the stock around the point where 

 the new bud is to bo inserted. Standard 

 or half standard briars must be budded 

 as close to the base of the shoot as pos- 

 sible (B) and dwarfs about an inch be- 

 low the ground line (10). Having pre- 

 pared the stocks, select and trim a 

 branch of the rose you wish to propa- 

 gate (9), and with a sharp budding 

 knife (12) cut out a bud as shown at 

 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. The bit of wood attached 

 to the inside of the shield, or bark of 

 the cut-out bud must be removed. In 

 practice it is found best to hold the base 

 of the shoot away from you when remov- 

 ing the bud, and cut towards you, but 

 to remove the wood from the bud a 

 sharp pull is necessary in the opposite 

 direction to the cut, holding the shield 

 in the left hand and removing the wood 

 with the right. If in bringing away 



in the stock; the edges of the cut are 

 raised with the thin end of the knife 

 handle, the bud inserted (7) and tied 

 in with raffia (8). The process is sim- 

 ple enough, says the Gardeners' Maga- 

 zine, uut, like many other simple opera- 



tions, must be performed with care. Re- 

 member that practice makes perfect. 

 Allow the base of the leaf stalk to re- 

 main, as it serves as a handle for the 

 bud and materially facilitates the work, 

 in hand. 



MUMS OUTDOORS. 



Why do my chrysanthemums wilt the 

 second day after cutting? I cut late in 

 the afternoon, and plunge them in water 

 lor twelve hours. The next day they 

 wilt. These are outdoor grown single 

 stems. 



When is the best time to take the bud 

 on mums growing for exhibition? They 

 must be ready by the last of October. 



Please give me the best of directions 

 for growing single-stemmed mums in 

 pots for exhibition purposes, also to be 



Alg?6^ 





m- 





'^y^.i^J^ii-<: - '.--.M .. V,>-.v 



How to Bud Roses. 



this bit of wood a hole is left in the 

 shield, then the bud has been pulled out 

 and is useless. Having successfully re- 

 moved the wood, trim the upper part 

 of the shield, as shown at C. Then place 

 the bud in the mouth to keep it moist 

 vhile a T-shaped incision (6) is made 



ready by last of October. When should 

 I take the cuttings, and in what size pot 

 would they show off best in the exhi- 

 bition? F. S. 



water through the stem. The reason for 

 this 1 could not say unless I saw the 

 stems, but in all probability it is because 

 the stem has become too hard. This may 

 be helped by splitting up the stem and 

 then if the flowers are placed in water 

 in such a position that the stems are 

 standing straight up I see no reason why 

 the water should not be taken up. It 

 does happen sometimes that if flowers 

 are cut in a half developed state that 

 they wilt down, but I assume that F. S. 

 knows when his flowers are ready to 

 cut. 



The best time with us in the east for 

 taking buds is from August 15 onwards 

 in order to get the largest flowers. Later 

 buds produce smaller flowers. 



Single-stemmed plants grown for ex- 

 hibition and flowered in 6-inch pots 

 should be rooted at the end of May or 

 early in June, grown right along in pots 

 and never allowed to suffer for want of 

 water or nourishment. I believe 6-inch 

 pots nearly always are used for flower- 

 ing this type of piant. F. S. will find 

 explicit directions on how to grow pot 

 plants in Herrington's chrysanthemum 

 book. C. H. T. 



I would say that the cause of the 

 flower wilting is its inability to take up 



THRIPS. 



I enclose some chrysanthemum foliage 

 with insects on the back. Please tell me 

 what it is and how to get rid of it. 



M. E. A. 



The insects belong to the numerous 

 family of thrips and with the flowers 

 developed there is nothing much that can 

 be done to clean them out at this time. 

 Another year I would suggest that 

 M. E. A. syringe his foliage underneath 

 irequently and this will prevent the 

 thrips from getting such a foothold. 



C. H. T. 



NEV CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



At the meeting of the Pittsburg and 

 Allegheny Florists' and Gardeners' Club, 

 evening of November 6, there was a beau- 

 tiful display of chrysanthemums, both 

 from home and distant growers. Prom- 

 inent among them stood a group of new 

 varieties from the E. G. Hill Co., Rich- 

 mond, Ind. So fine were these that a 

 special committee was appointed to re- 

 port on them, John W. Jones, the presi- 

 dent of the club, being chairman. The 

 other members were P. S. Randolph, Rob- 

 ert Chive and William Falconer. 



Grandest of all the blooms was Des- 

 troyat, a large pale pink, which lights 

 up beautifully at night. Mr. Randolph 

 declared it is the best pink chrysanthe- 

 mum he ever saw. Others were: Mme. 

 L. Roussel, incurved golden bronze, large 

 and full, one of the finest of its color; 



