480 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



January 3, 1907. 



was raised by crosging B. socotrana with 

 B. Nuttalense. 



' ' The work of raising new varieties 

 proceeds steadily, and we were shown a 

 small batch of a new seedling in which 

 the flowers were large, single and of a 

 «oft orange shade. For its color alone 

 this is a most desirable addition, while 

 as a parent it will probably be of special 

 value and interest." 



CATTLEYA LABIATA CANDIDA. 



Cattleya labiata var. Candida is a 

 beautiful and attractive variety which 

 flowered in Julius Roehrs Co. 's large col- 

 lection of orchids in October of this 

 year, among a lot of semi-established 

 plants. It is a vigorous specimen, con- 

 sidering that the leading bulb gave two 



succeeding leads in sheath, of which one 

 was in floAver at the time the photograph 

 was taken, giving four flowers on one 

 spike. The second sheath, which flow- 

 ered three weeks later, threw three more 

 flowers on one spike, the plant being es- 

 tablished in a 5% -inch pot. 



Sepals and petals are almost pure 

 white. Jt is a finely shaped flower, with 

 a splendidly tinged purple lip in the 

 back part of the throat. 



Several other splendid varieties were 

 in flower at the same time, such as Cat- 

 tleya labiata var. Mrs. Julius Eoehrs, 

 also a fine form of this useful species of 

 orchid, which was exhibited in Boston 

 this fall, at the Massachusetts Horticul- 

 tural Society's chrysanthemum show. 



Thomas Knight. 



grees to 58 degrees at night, with a day 

 temperature ranging from 65 degrees to 

 80 degrees, according to intensity of sun- 

 shine. 



Being of quick growth they should al- 

 ways have plenty of space on the bench to 

 insure a free circulation of air among 

 the foliage and so secure a stocky growth. 



ElBES. 



HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 



I wish to plant a few hundred hybrid 

 perpetual and climbing field-grown roses 

 into pots for counter trade next spring. 

 What time should I plant them to have 

 them in bud and bloom by Memorial day? 

 I will have to buy the dormant plants 

 and wish to know if it will injure them 

 if frozen in transit. L. M. B. 



PROPAGATING BEAUTIES. 



Owing to the large foliage and extra 

 size of the cuttings. Beauty cuttings re- 

 quire mere room in the bench than most 

 other varieties. Because of the large foli- 

 age, unless they are set widely apart 

 they retain the moisture too long, causing 

 spot and. rotting the leaves. Wherever 

 these leaves overlap the foliage will be- 

 come yellow and, in consequence, be of 

 no more use to the cutting. For this 

 reason great care must be exercised in 

 watering, syringing and ventilating so 

 that the foliage may be entirely dry be- 

 fore night. 



To preserve the leaves on Beauty cut- 

 tings requires constant care and watch- 

 fulness, particularly as regards the tem- 

 perature of the sand and house, as cut- 

 tings which have lost their foliage, al- 

 though they may be nursed along and 

 grown into presentable plants, never pos- 

 sess that vitality so essential to success- 

 ful Beauty culture. A temperature of 62 

 •degrees in the sand with a house temper- 

 ature of 52 degrees to 54 degrees will 

 cause a good root formation in twenty- 

 eight or thirty days without in the least 

 impairing the vitality of the plants or 

 •causing them to shed their leaves. 



The foliage being large and requiring 

 a fair supply of water to keep it fresh, 

 should also for the first ten days, or un- 

 til the callus has formed, be shaded from 

 intense sunshine, after which the shading 

 can be entirely removed. 



No delay should take place after the 

 roots have formed until they are potted 

 as this rose, above all others, being of 

 such a rank growing nature, if checked 

 at this stage will scarcely ever recover 

 suflBciently to make a plant fit for bench- 

 ing. 



After being potted the young plants 

 should be placed where they will have 

 plenty of air and light and should be 

 watered until the soil in the pots is uni- 

 formly moist. This can only be deter- 

 mined by turning a few out of the pots 

 and examining the balls. 



If the weather is bright they should be 

 shaded from bright sunshine until root 

 action has recommenced, when the shad- 

 ing should be entirely removed. They 

 succeed well in a temperature of 56 de- 



It is a pity you did not think of this 

 last November, when the nurserymen 

 were digging their field-grown roses. 

 Then you could have potted them and had 

 them down outdoors, covering pots and 

 tops with three or four inches of soil, a 

 plan which we entirely believe in. Now 

 the ground is frozen this is not so easy, 

 for, outside, it will be diflBcult to find 

 any dry soil for covering. It is frozen 

 one day and mud the next. Order your 

 plants at once; and here I must answer 

 the question about freezing: 



It will do no harm if the tops of these 

 roses should be frozen. We know the 

 hybrid perpetual roses and Eamblers are 

 subjected to zero weather during the 

 winter, without harm, and the roots, or 

 rather the soil around them is often 

 tight, but when dry the roots should 

 never be frozen. There are many trees 

 and shrubs, perfectly hardy, the roots 

 of which must often freeze solid during 

 winter; but they are in a natural state, 

 gradually and naturally thawing out, and 

 receive no harm. But it is quite a dif- 

 ferent condition when the roots are de- 

 prived of their natural element, the soil, 

 and then exposed to frost. 



Nurserymen, I know, are particular 



Caltleya Labiaia Var. Gindida. 



