January 17, 1907. 



The Weekly Florists" Review^ 



619 



Rooting Rose Cuttings at the Establishment of Peter Reinberg, Chicago. 



growers, eliminating none because of 

 their supposed tenderness. Bather bear 

 in mind the colors most desired. Plant 

 in beds or rows. If conditions are right 

 the product should be considerable the 

 first summer. 



In the fall after hard frosts and be- 

 fore winter, usually in Ohio about No- 

 vember 1, carefully loosen the soil 

 around the stem of each plant; bend the 

 plant flat to the ground and cover en- 

 tirely with at least two inches of soil; 

 three inches will be better. When com- 

 pleted, the bed or row should show no 

 signs of the contents. On top of this 

 place a good coating of strawy manure. 

 It is better to defer this last operation 

 for a couple of weeks, or until the 

 ground is frozen an inch or more in 

 depth. Evergreen boughs, corn fodder 

 or other litter on top of the whole will 

 be an advantage in the northern lati- 

 tudes, but not absolutely necessary. 



The object is not to prevent the roses 

 from freezing, but to rather prevent 

 their thawing on every bright day dur- 

 ing winter. The reasons for this are 

 apparent and need no explanation. 



The following year, when outdoor 

 vegetation shows signs of spring, un- 

 cover the plants carefully and straighten 

 by firming the soil with the foot. Then 

 use the knife fearlessly. Cut everything 

 back to mere stubs, and short stubs at 

 that. Leave nothing over two inches 

 from main stem. In this manner^ you 

 concentrate all growth into the base 

 buds. 



The tenderest roses should winter per- 

 fectly in this manner any place in the 

 United States. In our northern lati- 

 tudes there are localities where they are 

 subject to thaws and warm spells in 

 winter. There I would advise a heavier 

 covering for reasons above stated. Re- 



peat the process from year to year, 

 bearing in mind to loosen the soil around 

 the stems before bending down. The 

 reasons for this are apparent. Use the 

 knife more freely each season, aiming 

 to hold the bushes to a medium size. In 

 fact, they should not be allowed to in- 

 crease much after the second season. 

 To maintain fertility depend upon the 

 top dressing of manure and bone meal. 

 I should perhaps say that while all 

 varieties will prove hardy under this 

 treatment, not all varieties will pro'duce 

 good results. There are some sorts of 

 teas and hybrid teas that are especially 

 good outdoor bedders. These are what 

 you want to tie to. S. C. Tempun. 



SWEET PEAS CLOSING. 



What is the best way to keep sweet 

 peas after being cut? Mine close tight 

 after being' cut. S. P. 



Sweet peas open very slowly in dark, 

 dull weather and unless fully open will 

 close on the plant about 5 p. m. We 

 think you have picked the flowers before 

 they were sufficiently open. Unlike many 

 of our commercial flowers, which increase 

 in size when cut and put in water, the 

 sweet peas, especially cut before they are 

 fully out, do not develop a particle after 

 being cut. Let your flowers be more 

 fully open and I don't think you will 

 complain of their closing. W. S. 



one of the ways has been the frosting 

 of the show windows. Burning gas in 

 the windows to keep off the frost is un- 

 satisfactory. Many storemen run electric 

 fans in the windows and this in a meas- 

 ure keeps down the ice, but it is detri- 

 mental to the stock in the window. For 

 this purpose the Pharmaceutische Zei- 

 tung recommends the application of a 

 mixture consisting of fifty-five grams of 

 glycerine dissolved in one liter of sixty- 

 two per cent alcohol, containing, to im- 

 prove the odor, some oil of amber. 'As 

 soon as the mixture clarifies, it is rubbed 

 over the inner surface of the glass. This 

 treatment, it is claimed, not only pre- 

 vents the formation of frost, but also 

 stops sweating. ' 



PREVENTS FROST ON WINDOWS. 



One cold day last winter when B. 

 Eschner, whom everybody knows, was sit- 

 ting, with his ear muffs down, his mittens 

 and his rubbers on, behind a frost-cov- 

 ered hotel window waiting for train time, 

 he ran across the following in a paper: 



' ' This has been a bad winter for the 

 storekeeper in more ways than one. And 



LATE BULBS, 



I have a number of bulbs left from 

 my fall sales 'and have net had time to 

 get them out and would like to know if 

 there is any way I can use them. Can I 

 get them ready for Kaster? I have tu- 

 lips, narcissi, Dutch and Roman hya- 

 cinths. W. C.W. 



You can plant your tulips, hyacinths 

 and narcissi in flats three inches deep 

 and place them in a frame and cover 

 with three or four inches of soil. They 

 will be in fine order for Easter forcing 

 and you will find the quality of flowers 

 quite as good as those you planted in 

 October and November. 



As a proof of this, some years ago it 

 froze up before we had filled an order 

 for a customer in the fall and we had to 

 wait until our January thaw, which usu- 

 ally occurs. It was the middle of Janu- 

 ary before we got them into the ground 

 and they gave us splendid flowers in 

 April and May. Get your bulbs into 

 good, friable soil at once and you are 

 all right. W. 8. 



