■■•"■ -" ' r- 



1812 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



May 2, 1907. 



tion to nymphseas and nelumbiums are: 

 Cyperus papyrus, Egyptian paper plant; 

 Limnocharis Humboldtii, water poppy; 

 Eichhornia crassipes major, water hya- 

 cinth ; Myriophyllum proserpinacoides, 

 parrot's feather; Aponogeton distach- 

 yum, cape pond weed; Pistia Stratiotes, 

 water lettuce; Pontederia cordata, pick- 

 erel weed; Sagittaria Montevidensis, 

 giant arrowhead; Limnocharis Plumieri, 

 Typha latifolia, the well-known cat-tail, 

 and Saururus cernuus, lizard's tail. 



Hardening: Off Bedding Stock. 



Some attention should now be given 

 to the gradual hardening off of many of 

 the bedding plants. Too little attention 

 is generally given to this, with the con- 

 sequence that the plants, when set out, 

 stand still for a long time, or even de- 

 teriorate. It means a little more work 

 to move your plants around into cooler 

 quarters before planting them outdoors, 

 but it will pay you to do it. Geraniums, 

 if you are getting crowded for room, 

 will now do well in frames. So will 

 verbenas, dianthus, Drummond's phlox, 

 petunias, ageratums and a number of 

 other sorts. Coleus, alternanthera, Sal- 

 via splendens, heliotrope and other ten- 

 der plants must still be kept in the 

 greenhouses. Place a layer of coal 

 ashes to set the pots or flats on; it 

 keeps worms away. See that the sashes 

 are tight and be sure to close them on 

 cool nights, but gradually increase the 



toothsome chewing for the cut-worms 

 which invariably do an immense amount 

 of damage each spring. The earliest 

 asters should be sufficiently hardened to 

 plant out by the middle of the month 

 and ten weeks' stocks can go out any 

 time. A light freezing will not hurt 

 them. By planting out the hardier sorts 

 now the work will be a little less 

 strenuous toward the end of May. 



Brief Reminderi* 



A second sowing of sweet peas is now 

 seasonable. Cover the seeds to the depth 

 of three inches. The early sowings 

 should now be appearing above ground. 

 Support them with brush or wire netting 

 as soon as possible and thin out if they 

 have come up too thickly. 



Narcissi and tulips will now be in 

 bloom in the open. Take note of desir- 

 able bedding sorts for future use. The 

 public parks and gardens usually have 

 names attached and it will pay to visit 

 one at the height of the bulb season. 



Evergreens do well transplanted dur- 

 ing the first half of May. Cool, cloudy 

 days are the best for this work, but we 

 cannot always get such. Do not allow 

 roots to be planted dry. Mulch after 

 planting and a syringing overhead will 

 be appreciated. 



If you have forgotten to plant out 

 any gladioli in the rush of other work, 

 get a batch out at once. 



See that flats and pots of young seed- 



Eupatorium Veinmannianttm. 



ventilation until on warm days they can 

 be fully exposed. Plants treated in 

 this way will do much better than if 

 taken right outdoors from a warm green- 

 house. 



Field Planting. 



You will probably have your young 

 carnation stock in frames before now, 

 if they are not already planted out, and 

 your violets should be getting hardened 

 oflf. Better to have these well hardened, 

 for the tender, coddled plants make 



lings are more fully watered. A little 

 carelessness may mean a serious loss. 

 Leave night ventilation in your houses 

 now, if nights are warm. 



Ericas, such as melanthera, gracilis 

 and caffra densa, can be plunged or 

 planted outdoors any time now. They 

 ought to have been pruned back some- 

 what after flowering. 



Keep pansies, myosotis, daisies and 

 similar spring flowering plants fully ex- 

 posed now. It will keep them stocky. 

 As they like an abundance of water, do 



not allow them to suffer from a uu>,i 

 of it. ''''^ 



Perennial phlox cuttings put in .^j^ni 

 will root freely now and make 'u\^a 

 plants for late flowering. Cuttings TDot 

 easily, treated the same as chrysauthe- 

 mums. 



Planting of perennials should be , om- 

 pleted as soon as possible, unless . uick 

 is in pots, in which oftse it can be ca ie^ 

 on for some time yet. 



Plan to reserve a sufficient stock of 

 all bedding plants for propagating • ur. 

 poses another fall. It is best to set 

 them on one side and mark "not for 

 sale, " or " sold. ' ' 



If you are getting crowded again in- 

 doors, pull out some of the carna: ^ns 

 which have seen their best days nd 

 utilize the space for other plants. 



If you run your carnations late, ] mt 

 a few tomatoes up the posts. If you 

 cannot sell them all, you can prob 'oly 

 use them at home. 



EUPATORIUM WEINMANNIAN 'M. 



Eupatoriums and their near relat-vos, 

 the hebecliniums, are, with few excjp- 

 tiona, natives of our hemisphere. Of 

 the several hundred species known to 

 botanists only a limited number mrrit 

 horticultural recognition. They are eil her 

 summer-flowering herbaceous plants or 

 casual inhabitants of greenhouse or con- 

 servatory, where, in a temperature of 

 50 to 55 degrees, with abundant Jiglit 

 and water given, some varieties have 

 proven to be more or less ornamental 

 winter-flowering pot plants. To the best 

 type of the latter class belongs Eupa- 

 torium "Weinmannianum, a native of 

 tropical South America. 



This species is of simple culture. Cut- 

 tings strike easily in spring. They 

 should be well established in 3-inch pots 

 in May. If pot culture is intended, I 

 would advise to plant now five to six 

 plants together in, perhaps, a 7-inch size. 

 Eupatoriums are gross feeders and re- 

 quire a rich, loamy soil. When moviu{j 

 them outdoors always plunge your pots 

 in the ground to prevent the soil from 

 drying out too quickly. On hot days 

 water freely morning and night and, 

 after your plants are well rooted, give 

 manure water once a week. Thus treat- 

 ed they should be specimen plants from 

 one and a half to two feet high when, 

 in the autumn, time for housing arrives. 



Eupatorium Weinmannianum also docs 

 well when planted out in the open 

 ground over summer, especially the kcc- 

 ond year. The bushes should be «iit 

 back somewhat right after flowering, or 

 when moving thera outdoors. On a 

 sunny place, during the growing season 

 they need plenty of moisture and fi"C- 

 quent cultivating. If taken up caio- 

 fully in the fall, and shaded for a !< w 

 days after potting, they lose hardly a y 

 leaves. 



The specimen illustrated was a t\ ••- 

 year-old plant, which had been gro n 

 in the open ground the previous si* '■ 

 mer. It was flowering in the grc i- 

 houses of Clay Kemble, Esq., in La • 

 rock. Pa., and bore its blossoms " 

 through the months of December a ' 

 January without showing the least si " 

 of fading. 



Eupatorium Weinmannianum is, ^ 

 course, not a commercial plant in t o 

 present sense of the word; neither r - 

 its handsome flowers, when cut, vc 

 lasting material for vases. Neverthel* ' 

 a few well-grown specimens covered wi !' 

 their large white, or pinkish-whi '■ 



