TH, •V7IWJlWl,''-'*5TTt ; 



MAY 9, 1907. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review^ 



im 



iiots, and these can be set along the 

 laths or anywhere at flowering time. 



Some splendid growers of my acquaint- 

 ,iice grow their finest flowers exclusively 

 n pots and boxes. My only objection 

 () it is that it takes considerable time. 

 \ man can look after many more plants 

 II a bench than he could if those same 

 iilants were in pots. 



Specimen Plants. 



As these plants are ready, move them 

 I'rom 6-inch to 8-inch pots, never permit- 

 : ing them to become pot-bound in the 

 oast degree. Let the soil be good rotted 

 •;od, chopped not too fine, with all the 



fiber retained, and a fourth part of well- 

 rotted manure, with some bone added. 

 If you are so unfortunate as not to have 

 any fibrous sod, use coarse sand in the 

 soil, so it will not pack into a solid 

 mass. The mechanical condition of the 

 soil must be right, because it is a long 

 while to next November and it is an 

 easy matter to get a plant waterlogged 

 and unthrifty. 



Attend faithfully to the pinching of 

 the main shoots, and as the plant begins 

 to round out, put a stake here and there 

 to tie the main branches, so that they 

 will not get broken by the wind. 



Charles H. Totty. 



^.^"^^^"^ ''.***■*■ ' 



YOUNG STOCK. 



It is rare to find a house in which 

 there are no defects in the glass, and 

 these defects are certain to cause blister- 

 ing and burning of the tender leaves if 

 not attended to. These defects should 

 be located as early in the season as pos- 

 sible, as burns caused by them have a 

 very debilitating effect. Select a very 

 bright day, when the burning spots can 

 be easily detected, and touch them with 

 either a solution of alum or boiled oil. 



It does not require a big splotch of 

 paint, which is unsiglitly, to eliminate 

 the siK)ts, which are usually minute and 

 consequently hard to locate. This search- 

 ing for the burning spots cannot be done 

 in an hour, as tl • sun shadows are con- 

 tinually shifting, but should be perse- 

 vered in as long as the sun continues to 

 shine on the glass or until the burning 

 spots have all been subdued. 



Beauty foliage, even on the old plants, 

 is liable to sufl'er. and a.s the most valua- 

 ble leaves at this season are usually 

 above or overhead, it is diflicult without 

 a close examination to detect the dam- 

 age. A close inspection shouM be made 

 daily. 



Preparations for planting should now 

 be made by getting the soil into proper 

 condition and having all tools, etc., in 

 good working order. The work of that 

 busy season will be greatly expedited by 

 having all supplies, such as nails, lum- 

 ber and all other necessaries, in stock 

 and in their proper places, so that no 

 time may be lost in getting the benches 

 repaired, filled and planted. 



An old friend, a prominent grower, 

 has just called my attention to the fact 

 that for the last two seasons 1 have 

 neglected to say anything on the subject 

 of fumigation as connected with rose 

 culture under glass. This subject has 

 been discussed by so many able growers 



that I: felt as if I had nothing new or 

 interesting to set before my readers; 

 lienre the omission. 



In a future issue I intend to give, to 

 the best of my ability, my ideas and ex- 

 perience along these lines. 



I am always thankful to any of our 

 readers who call my attention to any 

 omissions or to any subjects which they 

 wish discussed. Ribes. 



MILDEW ON ROSES. 



In a recent issue I see the old rem- 

 edy of blowing flowers of sulphur again 

 recommended. It is a troublesome, not 

 to say slovenly process, and now entirely 



unnecessary, thanks to Campbell's in- 

 vention. The sulphur vaporizer throws 

 a thin film of sulphur evenly over every- 

 thing within range, and, provided the 

 directions are strictly adhered to, it is 

 done practically without risk. I have 

 used the apparatus several vears with- 

 out mishap and look upon it as a desid- 

 eratum attaint. It is, in fact, what 

 for years we longed for, and I notice 

 from your advertisement columns that 

 though it is a British invention, it is 

 obtained at several addresses in the 

 United States. It renders us quite in- 

 dependent of hot pipes for diffusion. 

 Farnham, Surrey, C. BEXNEfT. 



LATE PLANTING. 



I have under construction one green- 

 house* 21x75 feet in which roses will be 

 grown. It will be six weeks or two 

 months before all my material for roof 

 construction will be here and, of course, 

 after it arrives several days more before 

 house will be completed. Since that 

 would make it about July 15 to August 

 1, it would be late to plant roses. Is it 

 considered practical to set plants in 

 benches before the roof is completed? 

 What roses would be best suited to grow 

 in the same house? J. X. H. 



Roses being so sensitive to overwater- 

 ing and climatic conditions, it is not 

 a safe practice to plant the benches be- 

 fore having the houses glazed. It is 

 much better to keep going along by 

 repotting and, even though the planting 

 may be late, you will get better results 

 arid eliminate many of the risks. 



A beginner should plant those varie- 

 ties which possess vigor and immunity 

 from fungous diseases, among which are 

 Golden Gate, Ivory, Chatenay and Rich- 

 mond. These varieties are also good all- 

 round j)roducers and do not require the 

 same amount of scientific care as do 

 Bride and ]\Iaid. It may be well to try 

 these in small quantities in order to 

 gain experience. Ribe.s. 



CARNATION NOTES.-WEST. 



Field Planting. 



By the time this appears in print, 

 planting in the field will be in full 

 swing, an<l the quicker it is ended the 

 better for the j)lants. Up to this date. 

 May 6, we have been having light frosts 

 almost regularly, which liave caused 

 more or less hesitancy in making a bo- 

 ginning. They have not been lieavy 

 enough to do any real damage to plants 

 that are not too soft, but while frosts 

 occur quite regularly one can not tell 

 when the temperature may take an ex- 

 tra dip and cause irreparable damage 

 to any tender plants that may be out. 



In my locality there has been rather 

 less than the average amount of rain 

 this spring and the soil is turning up 

 in fine condition, especially where it was 



plowed last fall. Wherever this condi- 

 tion prevails an early completion of 

 field j)lanting is especially advisable, 

 while the sun is comparatively weak and 

 the i)lants can get hold of the soil before 

 it dries out too nuich, even if it does 

 not rain for sonu> little time. If your 

 carnation field is in close proximity to 

 the water supply you need not consider 

 tins proposition so much, but if it lies 

 some distance away and artificial water- 

 ing is ini])ractical, then it i)ays to take 

 advantage of every little ]>oint. 



Watering in the Field. 



I am not an advocate of artificial 

 watering for the carnation field after 

 the ])lants are in active growth ; in fact, 

 I prefer to grow them rather on the 

 <lry side, but when they are first planted 

 out it would be folly to allow them to 

 suffer for want of water. One good rain 

 a few days after setting out will usu- 



