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October 10, 1007. 



The Weekly Florists' Review* 



. RED SPIDER AND STIGMONOSE. 



1 enclose a growth from one of my 

 Enchantress plants, in a diseased con- 

 dition, and would be thankful if you 

 could inform me what the ailment is, 

 liow it is caused, and what the cure is, 

 if you know of any. 



How often should fine bone be given 

 to the plants, which are budding fast? 



F. N. B. 



Your case is identical with that of 

 E. L. B. and is covered fully in my 

 answer to his query, under the head of 

 * ' Punctures by Insects, ' ' on page 9 of 

 the Review of October 3. You have 

 both red spider and stigmonose infest- 

 ing your plants. 



Do not be too liberal with the bone 

 this early in the season. If you mixed 

 H fair quantity into the soil at plant- 

 ing time, and if the plants are growing 

 strong, a light application in connection 

 with a mulch at this time will likely 

 prove beneficial. Then do not give any 

 more for two months. After February 

 you can give a light dressing of bone 

 every six weeks with good results, but 

 up to that time it is not wise to indulge 

 in too much feeding. A. F. J. B. 



RUST ON CARNATIONS. 



I have heard that good results may 

 be obtained from the use of a solution 

 of arsenic as a remedy for the rust of 

 the carnation — about one ounce of a so- 

 lution known as Fowler's solution to 

 eight gallons of water. I should be glad 

 to have your advice before trying such 

 a remedy. J. W. G. 



Some years ago we used the arsenic 

 solution in combating rust on carna- 

 tions, and with more or less success. 

 We have since found, however, that we 

 can control it much more easily and 

 with less danger to the crop. We have 

 seen serious damage to the crop result 

 from the improper use of this article, 

 and unless you can be sure of just what 

 you are doing I would advise you to 

 leave it alone. We find that by keeping 

 the foliage of the plants dry and keep- 

 ing the atmosphere charged slightly with 

 sulphur fumes, the spores of the rust 

 will remain inactive and harmless. You 

 will now be running a steam pipe in 

 each house at least a part of almost 

 every night, and if you will drop a pinch 

 of sulphur on that pipe every few feet 

 it will answer the purpose. Dusting the 

 plants with sulphur and lime will also 

 prove effective. By picking off all the 

 affected leaves and burning them you 

 can destroy millions of the spores in a 

 short time. A. F. J. B. 



COMPRESSED AIR SPRAYER. 



I am a beginner at greenhouse work 

 and would like to know what would be 

 the best kind* of sprayer to get for gen- 

 eral use among carnations and chrysan- 

 themums, with special reference to keep- 



ing down thrips and aphis. I note in 

 the Eeview of August 15 thsit Mr. Baur 

 recommends a compressed air sprayer for 

 thrips, but does not mention any par- 

 ticular style. Would a small force pump 

 with a fine nozzle be satisfactory? 

 H. P. 



There are a number of compressed air 

 sprayers on the market, all of which I 

 understand are good. The principle upon 

 which they operate is much the same, 

 which is to partly fill a tank with spray- 

 ing liquid and then pump into it enough 

 air to cause enough pressure to force 

 the liquid out through the spraying noz- 

 zle. We use tlie Simplicity style of 

 sprayer and like it very much. I like 

 these better than the force-pump spray- 

 er, because after pumping them up you 

 are free to devote all your attention to 

 the spraying. Before we bought this 

 sprayer we used an ordinary brass syr- 

 inge with good effect, but we find this 

 sprayer a groat saver, not only of time, 

 but also of spraying material. With a 

 stead}' spray you walk right along and 

 do not go over a large part of the 

 space a second time, as one is likely to 

 do when attention is drawn away every 

 few seconds. The sprayer soon pays for 

 itself. . ' A. F. J. B. 



AMERICAN CARNATION SOCIETY. 



Car nations Registered. 



H. A. Jahn, New Bedford, Mass., reg- 

 isters Carnation Lloyd, white, flowers 

 three and one-half to four inches; free 

 and continuous bloomer; habit the very 

 best; seedling of 1902; parents two pedi- 

 greed seedlings dating back to Scott and 

 Hinze's White. 



Premium List. 



The annual premium list of this so- 

 ciety will soon be issued and any one 

 having special premiums to offer is re- 

 quested to send full particulars for the 

 same to Albert M. Herr, Lancaster, Pa. 



FORCING WHITE LILACS. 



T have some white lilacs in the garden 

 which were forced under glass in the 

 spring of 1905. Can they be forced 

 again with good results this sea.son? 

 Please give directions how to do it. 



Morris. 



Lilacs, like some other shrubs of a 

 like nature, can be reforced after two 

 st-asons' rest. Our experience has been, 

 however, that pot-grown plants will give 

 better results. Lift and pot the lilacs 

 at once. Keep outdoors until frost has 

 removed the leaves, then store in a cool 

 pit, shed or cellar until you want to force 

 tliem. I would not advise starting before 

 January 1. A warm, moist house and 

 frequent sprayings overhead are needed 

 fnd the plants should be removed into 

 a cooler house as the flowers expand, 



C. W. 



i 



FsEASONABLE 



^^^^'•n 



SUGGESTIONS 



Vc^^t^*^^ 



Lcrraine Begonias. 



Now is the time that popular winter 

 bloomer. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, is 

 growing raj^idly. The plants should 

 double in size this month, if well looked 

 after. They now need a warm house; 

 one with a rather moist atmosphere and 

 little shade suits them well. Keep the 

 shoots pinched and siake out the plants 

 with thin sticks. Leave them a little 

 Icnger than the shoots, so that you can 

 give them an additional tie later. 



If any Lorraines are not yet in their 

 flowering pots or pans, lose no lime in 

 shifting them. X'se plenty of flaky leaf- 

 nold, well rotted manure and san<l in 

 preference to a heavier comnost. Pick 

 off any flowers appearing. You do not 

 want any of these much before Christmas. 

 Do not try to grow Lorraines in a coM 

 house. They will endure 50 degrees at 

 night while blooming and be of improved 

 quality, but 10 degrees higher is needed 

 for a while. 



Poinsettias. 



Late propagated cuttings of poinset- 

 tias which are in small pots can still 

 be made up into pans, in which they al- 

 ways sell much better than in jutts. 

 Some growers plant a few small pteris 



or nephrolepis ferns in the pans. They 

 make the pans much more attractive, and 

 also assist in covering the lower part 

 of the stems, which a little careless wat- 

 ering will quickly defoliate. 



Poinsettias should now be in a house 

 kept not below 55 degrees at night. 

 With careful watering they will stand 

 5 degrees lower and hold their foliage 

 well. This cannot be done if the man 

 in charge persists in giving each plant 

 a regular morning allowance of water, 

 no matter whether it be wet or dry. 

 With foliage of a dark green color down 

 to the pots, poinsettias are very attract- 

 ive ; far too often we see long, naked 

 stems. 



The plants are now growing rapidly. 

 Stake Ihem wherever necessary and, if 

 any are well rooted in the pots or pans, 

 give them weak manure water or a top- 

 dressing of some such chemical as Clay's 

 Fertilizer. 



Azaleas. 



The Belgian-grown azaleas will soon 

 be arriving in quantity and where many 

 are grown this will entail a good dea! 

 of labor in potting. Quite a few of the 

 balls nmy have become very dry in tran- 

 sit. It will be unsnfe to pot them in 

 this c(tndition. Soak in water for a 



