NOVBMBEB 28, 1907. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



n 



method of planting them in water two 

 or three feet deept C. H. K. 



Nymphsea tuberoBa rosea is a beauti- 

 ful shade of pink, similar to the well- 

 known Cape Cod pink water lily, but of 

 a more robust constitution. N. odorata, 

 the white and sweet-scented pond lily 

 of North America, is more in evidence 

 on the markets than any other variety. 

 All the N. Marliacea forms are fine and 

 perfectly hardy. Albida is white, with 

 sepals tinged with pink. Carnea is soft 

 flesh, rosea, deep rose, and chromatella 

 deep yellow. Any of the foregoing are 

 reliable. I think it might be well to 

 grow more than one color if you are 

 intending to market them. 



Nymphaeas, like all aquatics, like full 

 sunshine, water and rich soil, which 

 should consist of strong turfy loam well 

 mixed with old cow manure. If pre- 

 pared several months before being used, 

 all the better. If placed in boxes four 

 feet square and twelve to fifteen inches 

 deep, the water will not be dirtied so 

 much every time anyone wad^s in to 

 pick the flowers. Press the soil firmly 

 with the feet and cover with sand two 

 inches thick. If you do not care to 

 trouble with the boxes, put a foot of 

 earth all over the bottom of your pond. 

 In this they will grow well. Allow each 

 plant not less than fifty to sixty square 

 feet of surface. 



Planting may be done as early as 

 April or as late as September. Late 

 fall planted tubers will start better the 

 following season than spring planted 

 stock. A depth of two or two and a half 

 feet of water is ample. C. W. 



lilium:candidum and HARRISn. 



I have just completed building an even- 

 span greenhouse, 16x50, and have it 

 partly filled with violets and carnations. 

 The temperature at night runs about 48 

 or 50 degrees. I have just potted a lot 

 of narcissi, some Lilium Harrisii and 

 some candidum. The narcissi I have put 

 in the cellar of my dwelling. Will I also 

 have to put the lilies away to root, and 

 for how long? I would like to have them 

 in flower as soon as proper conditions 

 would admit. J. O. B. 



The Harrisii can be stood under a 

 bench in your greenhouse, if there is not 

 too much drip through it. The plants 

 may also be stood in a frame, cellar or 

 frost-proof shed. No frost should be al- 

 lowed to reach them. Keep somewhat 



Notice the Twig and the Bird's Nest. 



on the dry side until the pots are well 

 filled with roots. 



Lilium candidum should be kept out- 

 doors after being potted, until quite 

 sharp frost arrives, when a coldframe 

 covering is desirable. Allow the plants 

 to freeze, for they will force all the bet- 

 ter for it. Many failures in the culture 

 of this beautiful white lily are due to 

 the growers persisting in treating it as 

 they would Harrisii, which is entirely 

 wrong. Better not attempt to force any 

 of the candidums before January 1. Fifty 

 to 52 degrees at night is warm enough. 

 The Harrisii, when well rooted and 

 started to grow, can be grown 10 degrees 

 warmer. C. W. 



f n^ n^n.v.ii».^»Tv.<^y#^v^^,^ ^,^,^,^^^^,^^,^^,^^,^^,^;yi^^- 



SEASONABLE 



SUGGESTIONS 



[ M?V^y#^^y^^.^^^^^,^^,^^,^^^, ^^^,^^,^^^,^^ 



.%<f»>''yc»>^l*^'Mc»>V.-»{; 



Asparagus Sprengeri. 



Asparagus Sprengeri, so indispensable 

 to the everyday florist, is of easy cul- 

 ture, but, like everything else, it repays 

 a little extra attention. To supply an 

 abundance for cutting, bench culture is 

 to be preferred, although where space is 

 limited baskets will produce a surprisine 

 number of sprays. Even narrow benches 

 along the sides of the paths can be re- 

 lied upon to give lots of sprays for cut- 



ting, more especially if the plants arc 

 fed well. 



Look over the stock in the benches and 

 remove any sprays which are becoming 

 yellow or mouldy, as sometimes happens 

 where the growth is dense. Afford a sur- 

 facing of well-decayed barnyard manure 

 to plants needing some stimulant, scratch- 

 ing over the surface soil before spread- 

 ing it on. Do not cut the plants too 

 closely, or you will seriously cripple 



them. It is bad policy to cut them down 

 bare, as we have sometimes seen, with 

 the idea of giving them a clean start. 

 It is much better to always leave a few 

 sprays on each plant. 



Antirrhinums. 



After the chrysanthemum season has 

 passed flowers of all kinds sell more read- 

 ily and those who can grow a good batch 

 of antirrhinums will always find a market 

 for them, especially if the most desirable 

 colors only are grown. Plants set out 

 in benches early in the fall are now 

 producing nice spikes, not, of course, of 

 such quality as may be had toward spring, 

 but a nice vase makes a pleasing type 

 as compared with the rather stereotyped 

 roses and carnations. When chrysanthe- 

 mums have been cleared from the 

 benches and antirrhinums planted in 

 their stead, a night temperature of 48 to 

 50 degrees is ample. Keep all prema- 

 ture flower stems pinched back. Stir 

 the surface soil frequently and encour- 

 age growth in every possible way. Be 

 careful not to overwater; rather keep 

 somewhat on the dry side at this dark 

 season. 



Eub all side shoots from the flower 

 stems on the early crop if you want 

 extra strong spikes. It will be neces- 

 sary to reduce the number of shoots on 

 each plant. This will be more necessary 

 on seedlings than on the young stock 

 raised from cuttings. See that plants 

 are staked and tied in good season. Bent 

 and twisted spikes are of no value, A 

 mixed assortment of colors is also unde- 

 sirable. Batches of pink, yellow, pure 

 white and clear red invariably take well. 

 Afford a little manure water to early 



