10 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



Afbil 28, 1908. 



13, his wife, Mrs. Rose Bendt, died of 

 the same disease. She died in ignorance 

 of the fact that her husband had passed 

 away before her. Next day a double fu- 

 neral service was held and the two bodies 

 were placed in the same grave. Dorothy 

 Bendt, the 13-year-old daughter, who was 

 also stricken down by the fever, is now 

 said to be convalescent. It is believed 

 that an oyster stew, partaken of by these 

 three members of the family April 1, was 

 the cause of the diseaie. Of the family 

 of four, Nellie, aged 6, was the only one 



who did not eat any of the oysters, and 

 she has remained well. 



It is rumored that there may be trou- 

 ble in settling Mr. Bendt 's estate, as no 

 will has been found. The estate is val- 

 ued at nearly $200,000. Mrs. Bendt was 

 a widow when she married the florist, and 

 had two children who are with relatives 

 in Germany. As she survived her hus- 

 band, some lawyers are of the opinion 

 that the children of her first marriage 

 will be entitled to one-third interest in 

 the estate. 



HARDY OUTDOOR ROSES. 



[Synopsis of a paper by David McFarlane, of 

 Tarrytown, N. Y., read before the Tarrytown 

 Horticultural Society, continued from the Review 

 of April 9.] 



Hybrid Perpetuals for Cuttin£. 



The best way to grow hybrid per- 

 petual roses for cut blooms is in rows 

 in the garden. I would advise every 

 one to give them plenty of room between 

 the rows, three feet or more, and they 

 may be set fifteen to eighteen inches 

 in the rows. This enables you to draw 

 up the soil to the heel of the plants for 

 winter protection, before placing the 

 manure around them. Another advantage 

 it lends in spring is, that M-hen you re- 

 move the manure the cavity in the center 

 will hold ^uite a lot of it, and where 

 it can be deeply forked in this will 

 cause fresh root action over a wide space. 

 As the root is the driving power for 

 the top and our aim is to produce a 

 good bloom oir a long stem, with good 

 foliage, I have never seen this method 

 fail even on light, sandy soil. 



Most men, who have written on the 

 subject of the rose, advocate the soil 

 to be left good and firm and only forked 

 up to a depth of a few inches in the 

 spring. This is contrary to my experi- 

 ence for good results. I never hesitate 

 to put the fork as far in as the foot 

 will send it, seven or eight inches away 

 from the neck of the plant. No doubt, 

 by this operation a great many roots 

 are broken, but it is at a time when 

 the plant is dormant and we have just 

 cut all of its top away, and I think 

 that the young roots will work through 

 the loose soil with such vigor as will 

 soon more than compensate for the rough 

 pruning they have received. 



Hybrid perpetual roses should not re- 

 main undisturbed more than seven or 

 eight years. They should then either be 

 replaced with young 2-year-old stock or 

 carefully lifted, placed over a chopping 

 block and all the thick, fiberless roots 

 removed with a sharp hatchet. Roses 



treated in this way are, in many cases, 

 as good as younger stock. Care should 

 be taken not to treat all in one season, 

 as hybrids give poor results the first 

 season after being planted. 



Roses grown for cutting or exhibition 

 purposes should be disbudded, leaving 

 only the strongest bud on each shoot, 

 which is generally the center one, and 

 where roses are grown especially for 

 exhibition the small, weakly shoots may 

 be removed at an early stage. The latter 

 is, however, seldom necessary where the 

 operation of pruning has been perfectly 

 performed in early spring; for in that 

 operation no wood should be left that is 

 likely to throw up a weak growth. 



Climbing Roses. 



No class of rose has gained in popu- 

 larity in the last fifteen years as have the 

 climbing roses. This, I may say, is due 

 to the Crimson Rambler, which is now 

 no more a stranger to the humble cottager 

 than to the millionaire. The Crimson 

 Rambler may justly be credited with 

 the stimulant it created among hybrid- 

 izers, the results of which are now dem- 

 onstrated to us with a vast variety pf 

 sterling merit, for which the Yankee 

 hybridizer deserves a good share of the 

 credit. 



For covering arbors, trellises, fences, 

 pillars, or planting along sides of build- 

 ings and high walls, in conjunction with 

 other climbers, nothing is more effective 

 than these rambler roses. The best and 

 hardiest varieties ar^ found in the ram- 

 bler or polyantha class. Some of the 

 Wichuraiana hybrids are extremely use- 

 ful for this purpose, but some of them, 

 cannot be classed as hardy roses, many of 

 them having too much tea blood in 

 them to be able to stand our winters. 

 I have seen large plants of Gardenia, 

 Jersey Beauty and Evergreen Gem com- 

 pletely killed with a moderately cold win- 

 ter. They are better, generally, for cov- 

 ering banks and low projecting rocks, 

 and when mixed with honeysuckle are 

 extremely valuable for landscape work. 



The following are good varieties of 

 climbing roses: Dorothy Perkins, Lady 

 Gay, Dawson, Leuchstern, Psyche, Crim- 

 son Rambler, Sweethieart, Debutante, 

 Lynch 's Hybrid and White Wichuraiana. 



Use and Arrangement. 



Pillars and various shaped trellises 

 may be covered with roses in the front 

 and rear yards of the small cottager and 

 many of the strongest growirijg hybrid 

 perpetual varieties, as well as the so-call- 

 ed pillar rose, may be used for this pur- 

 pose. Some of the best are: Baltimore 

 Belle, Queen of the Prairies, Gem of the 

 Prairies, General Jacqueminot, Mme." • 

 Plantier, Magna Charta and Marshall P. 

 Wilder. 



Climbing and pillar roses must not be 

 cut far back in spring, but the oldest 

 wood should be cut out occasionally. This 

 is best done just after the flowering 

 period, taking care that you have a good 

 young growth from the bottom for every 

 old one you cut out. All that will be 

 necessary in spring will be to cut back 

 to suit the space desired to be covered. 



Pests. 



The rose, like all other good things 

 in floriculture, has its bug enemies. White 

 scale, or rose scale, is often troublesome 

 on climbing, pillar or standard roses. 

 Where the wood is over a year old it is 

 generally the worst. A thorough spraying 

 with Pratt's Scalecide, one part Scale- 

 cide to twenty of water, applied with 

 a fine nozzle in late fall or early spring, 

 will kill this pest. 



Caterpillar must be carefully guarded 

 against. I generally find one application 

 of powdered hellebore suflScient to keep 

 this in check. This should be applied 

 about May 20. The best way, I find, is 

 to use it in liquid form, one tablespoon- 

 ful of hellebore to fourteen quarts of 

 water, sprayed on in the afternoon of a 

 bright, dry day. One should not wait 

 until reminded by the half -eaten leaves 

 before using hellebore, as the caterpillars 

 are sure to visit you about the time I 

 have stated. 



Another great enemy of the rose is 

 a little white thrips. This seldom at- 

 tacks the roses in the open garden, but 

 look out for your climbers on buildings 

 or pillars, if any way shaded by trees. 

 I find a strong application of tobacco 

 water the best for keeping this thrips 

 in check; but, generally, it has to be 

 repeated at intervals throughout the sea- 

 son, commencing about May 10. Aphis 

 is sometimes troublesome. If so, tobac- 

 co dust, applied late in the evening, is 

 the surest remedy. 



But the worst of all bugs that we 

 have seen in late years is the genuine 

 rose bug that devours the finished prod- 

 uct and has vexed all admirers of the 

 rose along this section of the Hudson 

 river for the last few years. I have 

 seen arbors of roses with the blooms lit- 

 erally cohered with these bugs and 

 scarcely one perfect bloom free from its 

 ravages. Killing by hand seems to be the 

 only way to destroy this pest, but even 

 this is sipall satisfaction, for we are un- 

 able to save our blooms. If I could pre- 

 scribe a remedy to eradicate this pest 

 this paper would have been at least worth 

 the ink that has been spilled upon it. 



THE QNERARIA. 



The cineraria is one of the most beau- 

 tiful and useful winter-flowering plants 

 for the greenhouse and for house decora- 

 tion. It is of easy culture, but when 

 well grown will well repay the grower 

 for all the extra care and trouble 

 taken with it. No private gardener can 

 afford to be without the cineraria, for 

 it is one of the showiest plants at his 



