The Weekly Florists' Review. 



AcausT 13, 1968. 



dition to those already named, included 

 David B. Ogden, Angus Gray gardener; 

 John Harrison, Vernon H. Grant gar- 

 dener; Mrs. Edward Coles, William Mc- 

 Gravaghan gardener; Edgar Scott, A. 

 Mitchell gardener; Mrs. Markoe, James 

 Crawford gardener; Alfred M. Coats, 

 John Brown gardener, and Louis B. Mc- 

 Cagg. 



Robert Cameron had charge of the 

 arrangement of the exhibits. K. Fin- 

 layson and W. N. Craig were judges. 



There were no medals, cups or prize 

 money awarded at the show; this being 

 considered, the splendid show was all 

 the more remarkable. With some of 

 these added as incentives for another, a 

 magnificent show will be assured. The 

 attendance of prominent cottagers and 

 others at the show was large, and it is 



probable that the Bar Harbor flower 

 show will now become one of the recog- 

 nized events of the season in the beau- 

 tiful Maine watering resort. 



A banquet, generously furnished by 

 the Mount Desert Nurseries, was tender- 

 ed to the gardeners and others interested 

 in floriculture in the island at the Mount 

 Kebo Valley clubhouse, on the evening 

 of August 7. There were about fifty 

 present. At the close of the banquet 

 short addresses were delivered by Will- 

 iam Miller, who presided; Charles Shand, 

 Kenneth Pinlayson and W. N. Craig, 

 and hopes were expressed for the for- 

 mation of a horticultural society or a 

 gardeners and florists' club as a result 

 of the first successful exhibition. These 

 sentiments seemed to find general ap- 

 proval. W, N, C. 



?^.<<^.<»^H 



SEASONABLE 



SUGGESTIONS 



i. 



Primulas. 



The plants of the several primroses, 

 more especially the Sinensis class, should 

 go into their blooming pots during the 

 present nionth, if wanted in bloom for 

 Christmas. At this holiday there is al- 

 ways a good sale for nicely flowered 

 primulas, more particularly the crimson 

 and scarlet varieties. In potting, avoid 

 a heavy soil for the Chinese section. Use 

 a good proportion of leaf-mold, some 

 sand, well decayed cow manure and loam. 

 You want the compost fairly porous to 

 keep it sweet, so do not ram it hard, 

 as you would the soil for an azalea 

 or erica. P. obconiea and the pleasing 

 new Kewensis do ])etter with a rather 

 heavier soil. They also should be in their 

 flowering pots not later than Septem- 

 ber 1. 



As a rule, o-inch and 6-inch pots are 

 as large sized as there is much call for 

 commercially. Late sown stock can be 

 flowered in 4-inch pots, but for these the 

 demand will not be so good. Keep the 

 plants «haded from bright sun. Remove 

 the sashes on dull days and evenings, but 

 avoid drenching rains, which will sodden 

 the earth in the pots badly. Keep all 

 flowers removed as tlioy appear. 



Cyclamens. 



As the nights grow cooler cyclamens 

 grow faster. Let them have the night 

 dews and spray overhead early in the 

 afternoon of warfn. days. Stir the sur- 

 face soil. Renuue weeds, and water care- 

 fully. Keeu/fobacco stems renewed about 

 the plants>s() that thrips and aphis can- 

 not secuae a foothold. If thrips has 

 appeared? smoke on two successive even- 

 ings, avoiding heavy doses, which may in- 

 jure the plants at this warm season. 



If you want your plants for Christ- 

 mas blooming, it is well to have them 

 rooting freely around the sides of the 

 pots before housing time. If, on the 

 other hand, you prefer to have them in 

 late winter or early spring, there is no 

 rush about getting them into flowering 

 pots for a nionth yet. 



Smilax. 

 If you have not yet found time to 



plant a bed or bench of smilax, do so 

 as soon as possible. There is still time 

 for the production of nice strings before 

 the holidays. Stock from 2-inch to 3- 

 inch pots will be found all right. Get 

 your strings in position before the young 

 growths have had time to become en- 

 tangled. Look over plants set out some 

 time ago and see that the shoots are 

 clinging to the strings. Old beds, which 

 have been rested, should now be started 

 up, cleaning away some of the old sur- 

 face soil and giving them a good top- 

 dressing first. 



Rambler Roses. 

 Pot grown plants of Crimson Rambler 

 roses kept under glass until early in 

 July \yill now have their growths almost 

 completed. Give them a sunny spot and 

 use the hose on them once a day, so that 

 spider can get no foothold. The shoots 

 of all ramblers sliould be securely tied up 

 to secure their proper ripening. This 

 is especially necessary in the case of the 

 pink varieties, which, with their Wichu- 

 raiana blood, have a natural tendency to 

 run over the ground. A temporary fence 

 to which the plants can be tied is some- 

 times used and it has nnu-h to recommend 

 it. as strong winds cannot then blow the 

 jilants around. 



Eucharis Amasonica. 



Eucharis Amazonica is a useful Christ- 

 mas flower. If properly rested and start- 

 ed up six weeks before the holidays, it 

 should be in season in a night tempera- 

 ture of Gii to 70 degrees. Many fail to 

 flower this plant, owing to keeping it in 

 too dark a house. It needs but little 

 shade at any time, just sufficient to pre- 

 vent burning of the foliage. To time a 

 good crop for Christmas, the plants 

 should be rested after September 1. They 

 will need syringing to keep mealy bug 

 in check. This should provide all the 

 root moisture the plants require. If in 

 pots, the resting can be done in any 

 house where the temperature does not go 

 below 50 degrees at night. 



Abutilon Savitzii. 



Cuttings of that useful colored-leaved 



bedding abutilon, Savitzii, if inserted 

 now will soon root, and if grown along 

 through the winter will make nice little 

 stock plants to propagate from in spring. 

 Souvenir de Bonn or any others of the 

 variegated class may also be propagated 



now. 



Brief Reminders. 



If you have forgotten to sow pansies, 

 do so without delay. Remove any cov- 

 erings from seedlings as soon as they ap- 

 pear. 



Chrysanthemums will now need lots of 

 attention in disbudding and tying. It 

 will not pay to neglect this. Do not 

 forget a spraying with nicotine extract 

 or kerosene emulsion once a week for 

 aphis) 



Keep antirrhinums headed back where 

 intended for bench planting later. Grow 

 them cool and avoid getting them pot- 

 bound, 



• Watch the little seedling cinerarias 

 carefully. Transplant them before they 

 crowd each other. 



Scratch the soil over on the early 

 mignonette bench. Keep abundant venti- 

 lation on all the time. 



If stevias are planted out it will pay 

 to put a stake to each. Pinching is still 

 in order for these. 



Trim genistas into shape from time to 

 time to keep them shapely. 



Put in a batch of marguerite cuttings 

 as soon as you can sec.ure suitable wood. 



Prepare the loam pile for bulbs and 

 get an adequate supply of flats, pots and 

 pans in readiness. 



It is better to cut gladioli with two 

 or three flowers expanded only. The 

 balance open just as well in water as on 

 the plant. 



Spray dahlias with kerosene emulsion 

 where the bug which stings the shoots 

 is troublesome. 



Avoid putting on heavy shadilig after 

 this date. The sun's power will soon be 

 on the wane and plants are better grown 

 without dense shade. 



CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS. 



Can chemical fertilizers, such as phos- 

 phates, ammonia and nitrate of soda, be 

 used on pink or yellow mums up to the 

 time Avhen the flowers show color, or can 

 they be used at all to advantage and 

 without changing the color? A. W. 



Chemical fertilizers, such as nitrate of 

 soda, phosphates and ammonia, can be 

 used with advantage up to the time the 

 buds show color. It is, however, very 

 easy by an overdose to destroy the colors 

 of pinks and reds, and care should be 

 taken to reduce the strength and also 

 the quantity as we come closer to the 

 flowering period. Ribes. 



TO DESTROY SNAILS. . 



Will you kindly tell us what to do 

 about the snails in our houses? Can we 

 do anything to get rid of themf 



W. G. M. 



There are a number of ways to de- 

 stroy snails. The most common one is 

 to lay baits of leaves of cabbage and 

 lettuce or slices of potatoes, examining 

 these every day and laying fresh baits 

 as the old ones shrivel. If you are grow- 

 ing pot plants on benches, remove these 

 and give the bench a dressing of air- 

 slaked lime, or water it with boiling 

 water applied through an ordinary water- 

 ing pot. Under the benches scatter some 

 lime or fine salt. If you are growing 



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