

Skptkmbbb 10, 1008. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 



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BUD ON DUCKHAM. 



What is the time to take the bud on 

 William Duckham chrysanthemums in 

 order to get the best flowers? 



W. W. D. 



The proper bud to take on William 

 Duckham is a crown bud taken from 

 August 18 to 30. If a bud is taken much 

 earlier the flower is short-petaled and 

 the individual petals are green at the 

 tips, making the flower unattractive. If 

 the later bud is taken, in .September, 

 while the petal is large and of good 

 color, the flower comes hollow in the cen- 

 ter and in some cases drops its petals. 

 If W. W. D. gets it as near as possible 

 to the dates I have mentioned he will 

 have little cause to complain of the size 

 or finish of this variety. 



MILDEW AND RUST. 



Please tell me what the enclosed chry- 

 santhemum leaves are aflFected with and 

 the remedy. I have several varieties 

 that are more or less affected with the 

 same disease, though none so badly as 

 the Mrs. Cunningham and Harrison 

 Dick, from which the enclosed leaves 

 were taken. I used a soil prepared last 

 fall, consisting of two parts soil and 

 one part decayed cow manure. When I 

 gave the last shift I added a 6-inch pot 

 of fine bone meal to a barrowful of 

 soil. They are now in 7-inch pots. I 

 feed them once a week with liquid ma- 

 nure and give free ventilation, with 

 top, sides and doors open. E. L. B. 



These plants are affected with chry- 

 santhemum mildew and also show signs 

 of being attacked with rust. For mil- 

 dew, dust the leaves with flowers of 

 sulphur and air-slaked lime, finely sifted, 

 in equal proportions, 



Eust is encouraged by a cold, damp 

 atmosphere and makes rapid advances 

 as the nights begin to cool. The follow- 

 ing mixture- usually is effective : Copper 

 carbonate, one ounce; ammonia, enough 

 to dissolve the copp«r; water, nine gal- 

 lons. 



The copper carbonate is best dissolved 

 in large bottles, where it will keep with- 

 out spoiling and should be diluted with 

 water as required. Ribes. 



CHRYSANTHEMUM GOLDEN GLOW 



The writer, having some experience 

 with this August flowering mum, feels 

 that too much cannot be said in its 

 favor, except with regard to its name. 

 The name brings to the vision that very 

 common flower, rudbeckia, yet in size 

 and beauty and foliage there is no com- 

 parison, as the mum has a 5 1^ -inch 

 flower, of beautifully incurved form and 

 bright, clean golden yellow in color. 



This variety can easily be brought into 



flower by the middle of August and 

 from then till the middle of September 

 and likely later. The store man should 

 hail the coming of this mum with much 

 interest, as at the present time there 

 is scarcely anything else good on the 

 market. Though asters are yet on the 

 market, the customer should be excused 

 if he is tiring of asters for the season, 

 while good roses are scarce and quickly 

 perishable, and carnations are poor. 



It is a boon to the flower-loving and 

 plant-buying public and should give the 

 plant grower an immense home demand 

 for young plants in April and May for 

 outdoor planting, as the flower will ma- 

 ture before hard frost almost anywhere 

 in this country. J. H. Myers. 



TAKING THE BUD. 



Willyou please tell me if there is any 

 set rule for taking the bud on mums? 

 It so happens that I have several varie- 

 ties that are new to me and I am at 

 a loss as to which bud should be taken. 

 The stock is for the Boston market. 



M. O. 



There is no set rule for bud selection; 

 you cannot treat all varieties alike. The 

 commercial grower does not figure much 

 on the earliest buds, excepting on the 

 earliest varieties, but the exhibitor, who 

 wants the very largest flowers, must, in 

 the majority of cases, get the crown bud 

 from the middle of August onward. 



That novices may understand the dif- 

 ference between what are known as 

 crown buds and terminal buds, it might 

 be said that crowns are the buds that 

 form in the earlier stages of the growth 

 of the plant, the terminal bud being the 

 terminus, or finish of the growth. The 

 difference between the buds may be 

 known in several ways, the time they are 

 prouuced being one way. The earliest 

 buds are usually crowns. 



The crown bud always has two or more 

 growth shoots that appear around it, 

 and these shoots, if not removed, will 

 grow on, and, taking the nourishment 

 from the bud, will render the latter use- 

 less. If the date is not too early, the 

 surrounding shoots can be rubbed off 

 and then the bud will develop properly. 



The terminal bud is surrounded by a 

 cluster of smaller buds, and appears in 

 September or later, according to the 

 time the plants are set out. The flower 

 produced from a terminal bud is never 

 so large as from crown buds. In some 

 cases it is more highly colored, some of 

 the pink varieties showing this condition. 



"How early can I take a crown bud 

 with safety?" is often asked. This will 

 vary with varieties and localities. In 

 New Jersey it is safe after August 20 

 to take buds of any varieties except a 

 few late kinds. Some growers in the 

 middle west say they can do little with- 



crown buds taken in August, as the air 

 is much drier and the buds shrivel in- 

 stead of swelling. At any rate, by the 

 second week in September your buds 

 should be selected. 



It is a good way, particularly where 

 one is trying new kinds, to tie a label 

 on certain plants, giving the time of tak- 

 ing the bud. This gives a certain rec- 

 ord when the plant flowers as to which 

 buds produced best results and is valua- 

 ble as a guide for future years. It is 

 impossible to carry such data in one's 

 head from year to year, and a notebook 

 is something almost every successful 

 mum grower carries. 



A WHITE THAT SHOWS COLOR. 



I have some chrysanthemums which 

 were bought for White Jerome Jones. 

 They are not white. I would call them 

 a very nice apricot and have no fault 

 to find with the color, but they come 

 single, or semi-double at the best, all 

 with a very distinct yellow eye. Can 

 you tell me why? 



Last year Maynell had a very weak 

 neck. Just as the bloom was getting 

 about right it would hang over. The 

 stem close to the bloom seemed to be 

 hollow and soft. I think they were a 

 little that way the year before, but am 

 sure I had them right the first year or 

 two. W. C. 



The variety White Jerome Jones has 

 a tendency to show color if grown very 

 cool after the buds show color. If the 

 temperature is kept at 60 degrees or 

 over, this trsiit will disappear. 



They are also inclined to come single 

 or semi-double, but this fault can also 

 be remedied by judicious feeding. With 

 the liquid food from manure, add nitrate 

 of potash in the proportion of one pound 

 to fifty gallons of water. 



Weak necks are frequently caused by 

 want of ventilation; sometimes, also, by 

 too much humus in the soil and too much 

 water. Varieties so inclined require spe- 

 cial treatment in these respects. 



BiBEB. 



FEEDING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



Now that the manuring of the plant 

 is so much better understood than for- 

 merly, we hear less of loss through the 

 damping off of the florets. This mishap 

 may be caused by other things, but the 

 chief cause is too much artificial ma- 

 nure applied to the soil, such as sulphate 

 of ammonia and nitrate of soda, which 

 injures the finer roots, causes a check, 

 and lowers the health of the plants. I 

 have noticed that a sudden burst of sun- 

 shine following dull days will also set 

 up damping of the fioreto, which is most 

 marked on excessively manured plants. 

 Chrysanthemums in the open air, where 



