OCTOBER 1, 3908. 



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 Thc Weekly Florists^ Review* 



J5 



HARDY ROSES FOR FORCING. 



I have a fine lot of roses. Some are 

 hardy perpetuals, such as Ulrich .Brun- 

 ner and others of that class, and some 

 are hybrids, such as Etoile de France, 

 Helen Gould and others. I would like 

 to have them in bloom for Decoration 

 day. Please tell me how to construct a 

 coldframe, when to put them' in and 

 what treatment to give them over winter 

 in New Jersey. Gt. W. R. 



You do not state whether the roses are 

 being grown in the open ground or are 

 in pots, or boxes. In the latter case 

 they will not require placing under cover 

 before the middle or end of November 

 in your latitude. Give them full sun- 

 shine and gradually withhold water in 

 order to check further soft growth and 

 help to harden and ripen the wood. The 

 plants should by no means become dust- 

 dry, for that would cause shriveling and 

 injury. 



If the roses are growing in the open, 

 they should be potted or placed in boxes 

 about the end of October. This will 

 allow them to become somewhat estab- 

 lished before they are placed under glass 

 for forcing. Keep them outdoors about 

 a month after lifting them. 



If you have a shed or cold cellar, you 

 could pack the pots and boxes with 

 leaves or straw, and it would be an ad- 

 vantage to have the temperature down 

 to freezing each night or even below it. 

 Otherwise you can construct a frame to 

 hold them, on a sloping piece of ground, 

 in order to be sure that no water will 

 lodge there. Use 2-inch planks for the 

 sides and give a pitch of six to eight 

 inches for a 6-foot sash. Bank up loam 

 around the sides of the planks for added 

 warmth. Dig out the frame to the re- 

 quired depth after construction. The 

 hybrid perpetuals should be all right 

 with merely the sash covering, but the 

 hybrid teas will be better off with a 

 scattering of dry leaves among them. 

 Air the frame during all mild spells in 

 winter and use board shutters over the 

 glass to keep snow from breaking it. 

 If the soil in the pots is allowed to be- 

 come fairly dry, there will be little prob- 

 ability of the frost breaking them. It 

 would be as well, however, to pack be- 

 tween them with leaves. 



If you prefer to wait until late winter 

 before potting your plants, dig a trench 

 outdoors and bury the plants, covering 

 with a good coating of straw after frost 

 has firmed the ground well. Take out 

 the plants and pot them about the end 



of February. Results will not be so good 

 in this case as if the plants had been 

 potted in the fall. 



To have the plants in bloom for Memo- 

 rial day, start them in a temperature of 

 40 to 45 degrees at night, raising the 

 night readings to 50 or 55 degrees later. 

 It takes a good deal of nice judgment 

 to time these roses exactly. If the month 

 of May proves hot, it may be necessary 

 to move them to a cooler house. Ten 

 to twelve weeks should suffice from the 

 time the plants are started until they 

 are well in bloom. The hybrid teas will 

 come in rather earlier th^tn the hybrid 

 perpetuals and could be started two 

 weeks later. C. W. 



VENTILATION. 



In a case like this, what should be 

 done : In a rose house extending east and 

 west, with the wind coming from either 

 east or west, how should ventilation be 



(raiVERY now and then a well 

 l*>9 pleased reader speaks the wofd 

 which is the means of bringing a new 

 advertiser to 



w 



Such {riendly assistance is thoroughly 

 appreciated. 



Give us the name of anyone from 

 whom you are buying, not an adver- 

 tiser. We especially wish to interest 

 those selling articles of florists' use 

 not at present advertised. 



FLORISTS' PUBLISHING CO. 

 530-60 Cazton Bldg. Chicago 



attended to when the temperature rises 

 quite high, so as to prevent a draft from 

 coming in? E. P. L. 



This querist omitted to state whether 

 the house was provided with ventilators 

 on both sides. The best method would be 

 to find out by experiment, as it is almost 

 impossible to answer such queries without 

 being on the ground to see conditions, 

 lay of land, etc. Ribbs. 



BURNT SPOTS ON FOLIAGE. 



Would you kindly advise me as to the 

 cause of spot on the inclosed Beauty 

 foliage? This appeared last fall, but to 

 no great extent, and as it was confined 



to a few plants in the middle of the 

 house, . I concluded that it was scorching 

 and that it originated from the sun's 

 rays penetrating through a defective 

 piece of glass while the plants were still 

 wet from syringing. 



This year it has made its appearance 

 again and is distributed all over the 

 house, though not to any alarming ex- 

 tent. I may add that watering, airing, 

 syringing, cultivating and tying get first- 

 class attention, practically the same as is 

 advised in the Review from time to 

 time. Except for this trouble, the plants 

 are in splendid condition. A. M. R. 



The spots are caused by imperfections 

 in the glass. These imperfections are 

 frequently so small as to be practically 

 invisible, and to locate them requires pa- 

 tience and time. During bright sunshine 

 the bright, burning spots, as shown on 

 the foliage, can by the shadows be traced 

 to the defects in the glass. A small 

 brush, dipped in boiled oil and attached 

 to a long handle, can then be applied to 

 the defects. 



This scrutiny should be made during 

 every hour of sunshine, so that all the 

 spots may be located and obscured. 



RiBES. 



THRIPS. 



I am sending you four American 

 Beauty buds. We have had some discus- 

 sion as to what is the trouble with these 

 buds, and would thank you if you could 

 tell us what the trouble is and what 

 would be the best remedy for same? 



E.N.S. ^ 



These buds are infested with thripff. 

 By pulling one of the buds apart you will 

 find the little pest at the base of the 

 petals. They are lively and it requires a 

 quick eye to detect them. 



There are many remedies recommended 

 from time to time. None of them are 

 effective unless persisted in. Hydro- 

 cyanic acid gas, one ounce to each 1,000 

 cubic feet of space, will destroy (so it is 

 claimed) ninety-two per cent of the pests. 

 If this is persisted in for a few weeks 

 the logical conclusion is that the few 

 remaining in a few weeks will be past 

 doing much damage. Fumigating with 

 tobacco to which has been added some 

 red pepper, once a week, has kept them 

 from giving trouble with my roses. This 

 has been the remedy practiced for years 

 with good effect. Ribes. 



NAME OF PLANTS. 



Please give us the name of enclosed 

 cuttings of geranium, also bloom and 

 leaf of another plant, which we would 

 like the name of. C. J. A. 



The geranium appears to be Alphonse 

 Ricard, but specimens were badly wilted. 

 The other plant is Echeveria secunda 

 glauca. c. 



LATE PLANTED DAHLL\S. 



It is significant that those who planted 

 dahlias late this year are less annoyed 

 by lack of bloom, on account of blighted 

 plants, than are those who planted early. 



To take my own case, for example, I 

 had about 100 plants growing splendidly 

 early in June, which a month later were 

 a sorry looking spectacle. On the other 

 hand, the ones I planted as late as the 

 middle of June grew without hindrance 

 and are now in full bloom, while those 

 first planted, and almost wholly blighted, 

 are only now coming into bloom. B. 



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