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The Weekly Florists' Revk^Hr, 



August 12, 1900. 



DISBUDDING. 



When to Do It. 



Disbudding, as practiced by up-to-date 

 growers, requires some study and cfire in 

 order to get the best results from the 

 operation. Some growers even yet, and 

 especially where new varieties are in 

 question, disbud by simply nipping out 

 the bud as soon as it is formed. As the 

 wood at this stage is soft and the eyes 

 are far from ripe, the result is usually 

 a crop of lateral buds of little or no use 

 commercially, and incapable of forming 

 eyes fit to produce long stems with good 

 buds for a future crop. By allowing the 

 bud to remain on the stem until it shows 

 color, the stem becomes woody, and con- 

 sequently the eyes have time to develop 

 and ripen and attain a condition that by 

 proper selection will produce long stems 

 and good buds. 



In selecting the eyes to be left, the 

 variety of the stock must be considered, 

 as it is not always profitable to treat all 

 varieties alike in this respect. In soft 

 wooded roses, such as Chatenay, where 

 the growth is rank, it is better to leave 

 five or six buds, while in such hard 

 wooded varieties as Richmond and Lib- 

 erty three eyes are suflBcient. 



A Crop For Thanksgivioe. 



To secure a crop for Thanksgiving, 

 calculations should be made as to the 

 time required to develop a crop after 

 disbudding, so that the crop may be on 

 time. 



Where the plants are robust and a tem- 

 perature of 56 to 58 degrees at night, 

 with a day temperature of 75 to 80 de- 

 grees during bright weather, is main- 

 tained, it requires about six weeks to de- 

 velop a crop on the varieties mentioned, 

 and it is good policy to allow even a week 

 more of a margin, to be certain. 



As the nights begin to get cool, some- 

 times accompanied by showers, ventila- 

 tion requires greater attention, and it is 

 frequently advisable to resort to firing to 

 keep the atmosphere in tone. By care 

 and attention to ventilation and to the 

 quality of the atmosphere in the house, 

 a great many of the ills which the rose is 

 heir to can be obviated. Ribes. 



CARE OF OLD ROSE PLANTS. 



I wish to ask for information in re- 

 gard to caring for old plants. I have a 

 few benches of Richmond, Killarney, 

 Maid, Bride and Golden Gate, which I 

 had planned to grow another year. I 

 rested these during May, removed about 



one inch of soil from the benches and 

 replaced with fresh soil, then cut the 

 plants back and started them up about 

 the middle of June. The buds have been 

 pinched twice, and in some instances 

 three times, and I think that I will let 

 the next bud flower. About two weeks 

 ago I gave all the plants a good mulching 

 of well rotted cow manure. 



Will it be advisable to apply the com- 

 mercial fertilizer, dry blood, at this time 

 to make better flowers? Please state the 

 properties contained in dry blood and 

 when it should be used on the young 

 plants, as well as on the old ones. Also 

 in regard to this budding of young roses, 

 is it best to let the bud mature before 

 cutting it out, or are there any evil ef- 

 fects from pinching it when it first ap- 

 pears? A. G. L. 



So far these roses have been treated 

 all right, although it might have been 

 better to remove a little more of the top 

 soil. 



In regard to disbudding, that has to be 

 regulated in a great measure by the time 

 the first cut is required. From the time 

 of the disbudding, it requires at this sea- 

 son at least six weeks to develop a crop. 



There will be no need to apply any of 

 the commercial fertilizers until the pres- 

 ent feeding (mulch) has been partly ex- 

 hausted. It would be better, while the 

 first crop is maturing, to apply a little 

 feeding in a liquid form. 



Dried blood is a rich manure and 

 should be applied sparingly, especially to 

 plants under glass during hot weather. 

 When thoroughly dried it contains: Car- 



bon, 51.950; hydrogen, 7.165; nitroj^'en 

 17.172; oxygen, 19.295; ashes, 4.418. The 

 ashes contain various salts, as chloiide 

 of sodium and phosphate of lime, witli a 

 little oxide of iron. * RlBEs. 



ROSE LAMAHQUE. 



Lamarque stands at the head of the 

 list of climbing roses for California. It 

 is not only a vigorous grower and f;ee 

 bloomer, but the flowers average high in 

 quality. I have never seen blooms of 

 Lamarque that were of finer quality than 

 those on the plants shown in the phoio- 

 graph, not excepting those grown under 

 glass in the east in past years. The 

 plants shown have nearly covered my 

 woodshed in five years from the cutting. 



This rose propagates most readily here, 

 around Monterey Bay. I inserted 114 

 cuttings in a row in the garden in Janu- 

 ary, and 102 rooted and made good 

 plants without further attention. 



G. L. G. 



GLOXINIAS AFTER FLOWERING. 



What should be done with gloxinias 

 when they have finished blooming? 



A. F. C. 



Do not suddenly withhold all water, as 

 is too often done, or you will ruin the 

 plants. Gradually reduce the supply of 

 moisture at the roots. Keep the plants 

 where they can get plenty of sunshine, 

 and after the foliage has all ripened, store 

 the pots away in a dry shed or room 

 where the winter temperature will not 

 fall below 50 degrees. Often the pots 

 are laid on their sides below benches. 

 This is convenient, but decidedly slovenly. 

 In such places such vermin as sow bugs 

 are likely to burrow into the soil and de- 

 stroy many of the tubers. If you wish 

 to economize space, the tubers can be 

 shaken out and stored in dry sand over 

 winter. C. W. 



WicKFORD, R. I. — Peter S. Byrnes is 

 building two greenhouses at his place on 

 West Main street. 



Marshpield, Wis. — R. I. Macklin has 

 enlarged oflSce, store and boiler room and 

 will add to bis glass. 



Rose Lamarque. 



