November 25, 1900. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review^ 



15 



CAHNATION NOTES— EAST. 



Disbudding. 



Although the operation of disbudding 

 is generally conceded to be indispensable 

 in the production of high grade blooms, 

 it is doubtful if it is practiced to the 

 extent it should be and with a clear 

 understanding of the advantage to be 

 derived. Too often it is regarded as a 

 necessary evil, as something to be gotten 

 over with the least possible exertion or 

 perhaps postponed until the mass of sur- 

 plus buds presents so distracting an ap- 

 pearance as to dishearten the most pa- 

 tient grower. 



Primarily the object sought is to di- 

 vert the energy which would otherwise 

 be used in the development of side buds, 

 into increased growth in the main one. 

 We cannot, however, hope for an increase 

 equal to the growth which would have 

 taken place in these side buds, had they 

 been allowed to remain, but we may be 

 sure that if removed soon after appear- 

 ance, there is no appreciable loss of plant 

 energy. Inasmuch as only a part of the 

 conserved energy will be utilized to in- 

 crease the size of the bloom, a portion 

 will go to strengthen the stem, calyx, etc. 



Some years ago the question was put 

 to me if disbudding did not cause ab- 

 normal growth in the partially developed 

 main bud, thereby increasing the ten- 

 dency to burst. Kepeated experiments 

 fail to prove this theory correct. In fact, 

 the evidence would seem to show improve- 

 ment in the opposite direction, provided 

 the operation is properly conducted. 



When and How. 



Instead of allowing a mass of side 

 buds to accumulate, these should be re- 

 moved gradually and as soon as of 

 suflBcient length to be readily caught 

 hold of. The removal in a short time of 

 considerable growth, whether buds or 

 cuttings, will cause a check in the plants 

 and consequent splitting of calyxes. Be- 

 sides, the benefits of the operation are 

 lost if not performed when the buds are 

 in the young stage. 



On the other hand, there is such a 

 thing as disbudding too early, causing in- 

 jury to stem or leaves, and especially is 

 this true if the bud directly under the 

 main one is removed prematurely. 



Under no circumstances is it excusable 

 for injury to be done to the foliage, for, 

 as everyone is aware, the carnation is not 

 provided with a superabundance of leaves 

 along its stem, and it is difficult to im- 

 agine a more inartistic bloom than one 

 with its stem skinned to a bare pole. 



Those of you who regularly read that 



ably conducted department of the Ee- 

 viEW, * ' The Retail Florist, ' ' will perhaps 

 remember Miss Blair's just criticism, 

 some time ago, of the careless manner in 

 which some carnations were disbudded. 

 It clearly shows that the divine flower is 

 not judged wholly by size of bloom, 

 rigidity and length of stem, etc. To 

 pass that most critical and withal final 

 test, the feminine eye, it must needs pos- 

 sess qualities impossible for mere man 

 to fully appreciate. Geo. S. Osbobn. 



PCX)R GROWTH AND FEW BLOOMS. 



I think perhaps you can give me some 

 suggestions which will help me. I am 

 located in northeastern Colorado and this 

 is my first season. My carnations, when 

 benched, were in good condition, except 

 that they were somewhat affected with 

 rust. They do not seem to have made 

 the growth or flowers that I had hoped 

 for by this time, in certain parts of the 

 bed, and the only cause I can see is 

 that I evidently got more manure in 

 that part and it was horse manure. At 

 the time I thought the manure well rot- 

 ted, but I now see that it might have 

 been more decomposed. You see, we 

 had to put this soil and manure directly 

 into the benches, because we had not at 

 that time any compost heap started. 



The bench that puzzles me the most 

 probably had the largest quantity of 

 manure in it. It is located against the 

 west side, so that the west wall of boards, 

 from the bench to the gutter, shades the 

 plants along the back edge of the bench. 

 T^e back edge is quite wet from drip all 

 the time, so that I seldom water it, and 

 yet the plants at the back seem to be 

 growihg more thriftily than those nearer 

 the Walk. Some myosotis planted along 

 the edge next to the walk is somewhat 

 yellow, evidently showing lack of chlo- 

 rophyl in the leaves. 



Now, I am puzzled whether the plants 

 at the back really will make any more 

 flowers than the others, Or whether they 

 are only stretching up for want of light. 

 Our house is really remarkably light 

 except for this. Perhaps the plants in 

 the front of the bench are not getting 

 enough water. I keep the soil moist. 

 There are pipes under this bench. Does 

 the fact that the plants next the outside 

 are possibly cooled by the outside wall 

 have anything to do with it? 



Could I improve the soil by taking 

 out a little and adding some buffalo 

 prairie grass, sandy soil, on top to take 

 its place, or do you think the plants will 

 take a hold after a little and make up 

 for lost time? They are now of a darker 



color than the ones growing more rapidly 

 and there are always a few of the bot- 

 tom leaves turning yellow. L. J. E. 



After reading your letter carefully, I 

 am inclined to suggest that your plants 

 along the front of that west bench would 

 enjoy a little more water. Those in the 

 rear of this bench are probably getting 

 more than they need, but they would 

 stretch up that way even if they had 

 only the proper amount of water. I 

 would suggest that next summer you put 

 in glass from the gutter down to the 

 edge of the bench, to eliminate this draw- 

 ing up. 



I understand that in certain parts of 

 Colorado it is impossible to get a really 

 good natural soil. You will just have 

 to experiment for yourself until you find 

 where you can get the most suitable soil 

 for growing plants. Your proportion of 

 manure and soil is all right for some 

 soils, while for others it would not do. 

 Not knowing anything about your soil, 

 I cannot advise you. Again I say, ex- 

 periment. A. F. J. B. 



RUST ON HARLOW ARDEN. 



Will you tell us what the trouble is 

 with the carnations from which the in- 

 closed leaves were taken? All our Har- 

 lowardens are getting into this condition. 

 i« A. F. C. 



Your Harlowardens are affected with 

 the common carnation rust. This disease 

 is not difficult to control, but if allowed 

 to go unchecked it will do enormous 

 damage. We attribute it usually to im- 

 proper watering and syringing, connect- 

 ed with unfavorable atmospheric condi- 

 tions. At this time of the year great 

 care must be exercised in these respects, 

 to prevent not ^only rust, but all other 

 spot diseases as well. 



By careful watering I do not mean 

 scant watering, and the same holds good 

 with the ventilating. The carnation en- 

 joys liberal watering at all times, when 

 in full growth, providing the drainage 

 is ample. You should, however, from 

 early in October on, syringe as little 

 as possible, and only to keep red spider 

 in subjection. We find that syringing 

 once a week is sufficient, as a rule. There 

 are always certain spots in your houses 

 which are more favorable to red spider 

 than the rest of the house, and these 

 you must syringe oftener. By keeping 

 the foliage dry you wUl keep the ruit 

 spores in a dormant condition. The 

 brown, powdery substance constitutes the 

 spores by which the rust multiplies. 



It will do little good, however, to stop 



