10 



The Weekly Florists^ Review* 





A"; 



•» r 





Pebbdaby 24, 191U. 



anthemums steadily grows and before 

 long America will become a formidable 

 rival to Great Britain — even if it may 

 not be so regarded at the present time." 

 In his introductory notes the following 

 paragraphs are found: 



"During a visit I paid to America in 

 November, 1909, I was able to jnake ar- 

 rangements with C. H. Totty, of Madison, 

 N. J., to act as my agent in the United 

 States for all the varieties of chrysan- 

 themums distributed from Merstham. 



"Mr. Totty is a man who combines 

 great business capacity with sound, prac- 

 tical knowledge of horticulture. Like 

 most of the foremost growers whom I 

 met in the States, he is an Eng- 



lishman, having been born in Shropshire. 

 He owns extensive nurseries at Madison, 

 where one may see the finest glass houses, 

 the most modern appliances and the latest 

 labor-saving devices to be found any- 

 where — and that is saying a good dieal 

 when one is speaking of America. The 

 produce raised by Mr. /Totty finds a 

 ready market in New York, about thirty 

 miles away. He has gone in enthusiasti- 

 cally for chrysanthemums, and has built 

 up a reputation as a successful grower, 

 not only of commercial kinds, but also 

 of exhibition varieties. A near neighbor 

 of Mr. Totty is W. Duckham, who man- 

 ages the estate of Mrs. D. Willis James, 

 of Madison. Chrysanthemum lovers in 



America are under a debt to Mr. Duck- 

 ham, who, for years past, has spar.<l 

 neither trouble nor expense to introdr.',e 

 the latest and best novelties. Some ,>f 

 the most popular varieties to be seen t 

 the principal exhibitions in the Uniti 1 

 States at the present day have becor <» 

 known through Mr. Duckham 's e - 

 fhusiasm. Like his friend, Mr. Tott^ , 

 he first saw the light in the old countrv, 

 being a native of Plymouth. He lei 

 England for America nearly twenty year 

 ago, and through his wide experience o, 

 gardening, sound judgment and go-ahea 

 methods he occupies a front-rank plac 

 in th^ horticultural world of the States. ' ' 



Bee. 



RUST ON UNRCX)TED CUTTINGS. 



I have read with great interest for a 

 year or two the replies of A. F. J. B. 

 to carnation growers who ask him ques- 

 tions about their troubles, and I am go- 

 ing to ask him what I can do with a 

 batch of Winsor and Victory cuttings 

 that are now in the sand. They were 

 nice and clean when I got them from 

 another grower, but now, after they have 

 been in the sand for a week,* rust is com- 

 ing on them quite badly. I do not like 

 to throw them away, as I have about 10,- 

 000 of them and they cost $100. I have 

 grown carnations for ten years, but 

 never before had the rust to amount to 

 much. This is my first attempt with 

 Winsor and Victory. Can I use a dip of 

 some kind when I put the next lot in the 

 sandf G. A. B. 



There is practically nothing you can 

 do for a cutting that has become affected 

 with rust before it is rooted. The rem- 

 edies advocated for rust could not be 

 used on unrooted cuttings, as they produce 

 conditions under which no carnation cut- 

 ting could be expected to survive unless 

 it were rooted. Keeping the foliage dry 

 is the secret of preventing rust, and when 

 rust makes its appearance it is customary 

 to apply dustings of lime or sulphur, 

 which take the moisture out of the at- 

 mosphere, producing a condition which 

 is abnormal to a degree. 



The cutting, until it is rooted, must 

 have an atmosphere which is bracing, 

 and that means at least moderately 

 charged with moisture. The cutting is 

 not able to draw moisture from below 

 as well as a rooted plant, and until it is 

 in a condition to do so you must aid it 

 in drawing moisture from other sources. 

 Too much spraying is usually the cause 

 of rust in the cutting bench, or perhaps 

 there are other sources which are produc- 

 ing similar atmospheric conditions. I 



have always advocated as little spraying 

 as possible as long as the cuttings can 

 be held up fresh by other means. 



I would advise pulling out all cut- 

 tings affected with the rust, to prevent 

 its spreading to those unaffected. Do 

 not try any dipping of the unrooted cut- 

 tings. There is nothing we know of 

 that will kill rust without also killing 

 the cutting. Your only remedy lies in 

 the prevention, as suggested above. 



A. F. J. B. 



SALT SOLUTION FOR SPIDER. 



In the Review of January 20 I note 

 the following direction : "To destroy 

 red spider, use salt water and wash it 

 off, but only on bright days." I should 

 like to know how strong the salt solution 

 should be made. How much salt is used 

 to each gallon of water? Is the salt 

 water applied with force, or simply 

 sprinkled on from a watering can? How 

 long after the salt water has been ap- 

 plied should the washing-off be done? 

 Do you wash it off with the hose, just 

 as we syringe? J. T. 



We use about a 2-inch potful of salt 

 to three gallons of water. This we spray 

 on the plants with our compressed air 

 sprayer. We use a medium fine nozzle, 

 which produces a fine spray and with 

 which we are able to cover every part 

 of the plant without saturating every- 

 thing. 



A few hours after it is applied we 

 use the hose to wash it off. Produce a 

 sharp spray, such as you use in syring- 

 ing, and reach every part of the plant if 

 possible. This is not so much to wash 

 off the salt, as the salt would do no dam- 

 age if it stayed on, but it is to wash off 

 all the red spider, many of which will 

 be half dead and more easily dislodged 

 than could be done ordinarily. 



If you have spider on your plants you 

 should make haste to get rid of them be- 

 fore warm weather comes. You will find 

 it a mighty hard problem to get rid of 

 them after April 1. A. F. J. B. 



BLOOMS FROM OUTDOOR STOCK. 



Kindly give the method of culture of 

 carnations for blooms in summer from 

 outdoor stock, buying rooted cuttings or 

 plants, and planting out in the open. 

 Can they be grown for blooms with any 

 degree of success in the open during 

 summer and fall from early spring 

 planted stock? Would it be well to 

 shade with slats, and should they be 

 given much water? What is the best 

 method of fertilizing? What varieties 

 are best for this punrpose? I am lo- 

 cated in northern Georgia. T. P. H. 



Carnations can be grown quite profit- 

 ably for summer blooming, especially 

 where there is trouble in getting good 

 asters. In many localities it seems that 

 the soil is so impregnated with the aster 

 blight that it is impossible to get a 

 good stand of asters any more. In such 

 cases carnations can be made to take 

 their place to a great extent, although 

 they can hardly be grown so clieaply. 



For blooming outdoors you want cut- 

 tings struck quite early. Then push 

 them along by shifting and topping as 

 needed, until by planting-out time you 

 will have them in 3-inch to SV^-inch pots 

 and carrying several good shoots to each 

 plant. Plant these out in beds, allowing 

 about eight inches each way between the 

 plants. As soon as the plants begin to 

 grow and rains become more infrequent, 

 give them a good, heavy mulch of rotted 

 stable manure. Then water whenever 

 necessary to keep the soil fairly moist 

 and be sure that you soak them thor- 

 oughly each time you water them. A 

 good soaking once each week will be bet- 



