TABLE OF CONTENTS 
Theory of surface waves. . . Pre Shem a Nea porch toys on eve te yusec tearm led wo hee cmte 
Waves of infinitely small omahindo. J CaSO POS he Tet Gee Ge adcats “Fo sute 
Wravesiofeimiteramplitudes..22 5 6. os sets see eee eta en's, B. Bowens ack 
Propagation of a disturbance through a seston arartomnlly undisturbedi ovate), cepre: teiaeu eaters 
General considerations and observations. ..........2..+.+-22-2252 2.00 
Grouppvelocityzandienergy flows)... 2 3 sik ee se eae es Sad Bitibnle ce Ws ers 
Transmission of energy by wave motion. ..........2.....2.2e... 
Approximate solution to equation (15) .........2...... Oe Wea cages Mister 
Significance of the solution ........2.2... SMA Sua cik cor ietauear res cers date ecifOR ot 
nereyatrausier irom wind tO waves :). . . .- 2 692 sw 6s et we ee Sa rarer 
innergyatranster by;mormal pressure. = fo 6. s =< © 2 sos 8 pe ete cee aw 
Energy transfer by te as SLOSS pte cen erene Vek Sibel alas te a 
Friction. . . EM ee sale eres ES eee eis, oa ie nialleae 48 
Theory for the moti a WAVOSWheciviepecmal chest ts 6 ec orehr: 
oieniticant,.and\:conservative,. WAVES. . <5 «2. «2-1. = 1 «5s ee te ws 
Energy budget of conservative and of Roniieanthy WAVES)! v5. oj coy See See ete 
The fundamental equation. . . . eral ese one Sa ne ie ea 
Observations of wave age and wave Sicqumners 
Derivation of an equation for wave age and Preopnecel 
Evaluation of numerical constants . . . RS Oh ono) acts 
Wave velocity, wave height, fetch, and dueation : 
General case. . .. . ee ear et ae leslie Aan ON ines sn ce. wipers Sle et 
Wandkandiwavierenergyne, 46, 0 ons «we Gl cn we 8 A de ew A 
Observations of the growth of waves .........,-+.-..2... 
Wave age and steepness. .......-.-.. 2... er eee Sst aap oer ae 
Wave height against fetch and sind ViGLOCHUVe ues tine pate a cate ou skis eee acl 
Wave velocity against fetch and wind velocity. .........2.2.2......46-. 
Wave height against duration and wind velocity ................... 
Wave velocity against duration and wind velocity ...........2.2..+.e+.-. 
Wiavienheishtrapainstntetchiyec. sve cates ie) pre Me vee Sey ey Seats whos be ae ce ey 
Wavelheishtiendgwindiduration= 4) cm 4 so 50s)e hog seme 6 ees ey we es : 
Waveyheizhtrand windevelocitys Js a. i ee el ce sw es he) ee le Ne 
Wiavenvclocitysandswindivelocity: sie). etn ei le ks) ee © ele es ne ys : 
ibheonryelorktherdecay-OlsweVvesreiis: aie eee ees) SU juste, leds ce woe hore he Oh ea eee 
Wnergyebuacetiemeaiaiecmer aed fetes Mattes Sa ben Gey yee ch ellbciote. ao vs. jouer yey gil's 
Wave period and distance from the generating area. . . . ......- 2+ soe 
Travel time and distance from the generating area. . . . . ~~... 2-2 eee 
Wave height and distance from the generating area. . ......-..-.+2.-.-. A 
Intensity and distance of storm from which swellcomes. ........ 50400 
The energy front. ........ AS ee eed Pe ee De bo ooo Oooo DOO OOO 
OO OMAAnL SP LW We 
