21 



responsible for the intensity and orientation of the "trade 

 winds" in the area just off the California coast. 



The arrival of swell from distant storms is entirely 

 independent of the local weather, so in the discussion of 

 wave generation areas, only storms in the north and south 

 Pacific Oceans which are of sufficient strength and properly 

 situated to send waves to Santa Monica Bay are considered 

 (Fig. 7). 



Wave Generation Areas 



Southern Gulf of Alaska Cyclones 



Most cyclones in the Norxh racific Ocean originate in the 

 vicinity of Japan and then move northeastwardly along the 

 Aleutian Island chain, where many die out in the Aleut ion low 

 pressure area. Most, however, succeed in reaching the Gulf 

 of Alaska and some reach the North American continent. The 

 area of strong winds in these cyclones is usually located 

 in their southwest sectors so that heavy swell is sent out 

 in a southeast direction toward the United States. This 

 swell is unable to penetrate into Santa Monica Bay due to 

 the configuration of the California coast. Probably about 

 two-thirds of this moderate to heavy swell approaches from 

 between 290© and 330°. Thus, Santa Monica Bay is ideally 

 situated behind Point Arguello and Point Dume to be protected 

 from swell of this origin. 



If one of these storms takes an unusually southern route, 



swell from it will reach Point Dume. Even when this occurs, 



the swell will be greatly reduced in height by refraction 

 around the point before entering the bay. 



