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10 



The Weekly Florists^ Review^ 



AUQDST 31, 1911. 



from carrying away the mulch. The 

 covering should not be heavy. Without 

 it the late frosts will heave many of the 

 plants out of the ground and the losses 

 are likely to be considerable. 



October is an excellent month in which 

 to plant the bulk of perennials. Some 

 sorts, such as Anemone Japonica, Lo- 

 belia cardinalis, pompon chrysanthemums, 

 incarvilleas and some others, should not 

 be planted until spring. Iris, both Ger- 

 man and Japanese, will succeed far bet- 

 t r and show a far smaller percentage 

 of loss if planted late in August or dur- 

 ing the first half of September. Too deep 

 planting will kill them. They are also 

 liable to rot if on ground not well 

 drained, and a heavy mulch is also in- 

 jurious. Peonies will do well planted 



either in September or October. The 

 earlier ones w.ll do the best. Phloxes, 

 delphiniums, aconitums, aquilegias, etc., 

 do well set out in October. 



Possibly the reason some of your 

 shrubs died was that you brought the 

 roots in direct contact with the layers 

 of manure. No shrubs or trees want 

 manure about their roots when planted. 

 Keep it below, or, better stUl, use it 

 above as a mulch. Thousands of shrubs 

 are killed annually by purchasers who 

 get the erroneous idea that they will 

 hurry them along by using manure freely 

 in the soil at planting time. When ma- 

 nure is used at all, it must be thoroughly 

 incorporated with the soil and should al- 

 ways be well decayed. C. W. 



DISCOLORED BOSE FOLIAQE. 



I am sending you under separate 

 cover some samples of rose foliage, the 

 condition of which I am at a loss to 

 account for. The plants were set out 

 in May. They were good, healthy 

 plants at the time and appeared to be 

 doing well until a couple of weeks ago, 

 when the foliage on some of the plants 

 commenced to turn like the samples. 

 The leaves on our rose stock turned 

 like this two years ago and the plants 

 gradually died. We shall be glad if 

 you can give any remedy for it, or 

 suggest any cause for' the disease, as 

 the plants have received the best of 

 attention, and until the last two sea- 

 sons we have never been similarly 

 troubled. E. E. G. 



The foliage f prwarded has a browned 

 and burnt-like appearance around the 

 edges. There are several possible rea- 

 sons for this trouble. If you are in 

 the habit of fumigating with hydro- 

 cyanic acid gas and have given an 

 overexposure or used it on a warm 

 night, occasional plants through the 

 house will be similarly affected. Too 

 much ammonia in the atmosphere is 

 another possible cause. Sometimes 

 growers mulch with fresh cow manure 

 in the hot weather and, unless there 

 is an abundance of ventilation night 

 and day, some of the foliage will be 

 affected in this way, plants at times 

 losing all their leaves. 



I would advise keeping some air on 

 all night as long as you can. Do not 

 close up the house tightly at all. It will 

 also be the best of economy to use a 

 little fire heat on damp and cloudy 

 days and every evening after this 

 time; also avoid doing any damping 

 in the house after 2 o'clock, so that 



a dry, buoyant atmosphere will pre- 

 vail at night. C. W. 



SPOTTED BOSE LEAVES. 



Can you tell me the reason for the 

 enclosed rose leaves being spotted t 



H.Y. 



I presume the leaves are from plants 

 under glass. They were quite dried up 

 when received. As near as I can 

 diagnose, there is black spot on your 

 rose foliage. This is liable to attack 

 American Beauty, as well as Richmond 

 and one or two other varieties to a 

 less extent. The usual cause is syring- 

 ing too late in the day. If the foliage 

 is damp at nightfall, you are pretty 

 sure to get a dose of the dreaded black 

 spot. An atmosphere overcharged with 

 moisture is also bad and'will help pro- 

 duce the same disease. The remedy 

 is to do all the watering and syring- 

 ing early in the day. Never syriiige 

 on dull days. If, perchance, a clear 

 morning gives place to dark skies and 

 rain, take a cane and go over your 

 plants, tapping them to throw off as 

 much water as possible. Keep some 

 steam or hot water in the mains. Do 

 not close the house up tightly, but 

 leave on a little air all night for some 

 time yet. Later in the season this 

 black spot is a disease to be feared, 

 but if you use due care in syringing 

 and are not niggardly on coal it can 

 be kept away. 



We have had a hot summer and the 

 undue forcing has made roses softer 

 than usual. A sharp watch is there- 

 fore necessary to keep black spot, 

 aphis and mildew in check. It is early 

 for black spot. The soft growth due 

 to heat makes the plants more suscepti- 

 ble, however. C. W. 



WINTERING HABDY BOSES. 



We are growing several thousand 

 hybrid perpetual and hybrid tea roses 



in the field and are anxious to learn 

 the best method of wintering them. 

 Can these roses be heeled in deep 

 frames in soil or sand? Can they be 

 safely wintered with a protection of 

 manure around the outside an^ with 

 sashes over the top? If you know of 

 any better way, we should be pleased 

 to have you tell us of it. We live in 

 central Ohio. L. S. C 



The hybrid perpetual roses should 

 winter outdoors in your latitude if the 

 earth about them is drawn up to the 

 stems to the height of six or eight 

 inches before the ground freezes. If 

 these are wanted for spring sales, your 

 plan of heeling them in frames, with 

 sashes over them, will be all right. Do 

 not put the sashes on until the soil 

 about the plants is well frozen. Air 

 out freely during any open spells dur- 

 ing the winter, to dry up any moldi- 

 ness appearing. Soak the roots of the 

 roses well with water if heavy rains 

 are not forthcoming after they are 

 heeled in. If the roots get at all dry, 

 they may apparently winter well, but 

 will speedily go to pieces when planted 

 out in the spring. This is the trou- 

 ble with many roses which are lifted, 

 tied in convenient bundles and heeled 

 in sand or loam, which is too often far 

 drier than it ought to be. 



Hybrid teas are more tender than 

 hybrid perpetuals. The same winter 

 treatment under sashes is excellent for 

 them. Where frames, sheds or cellars 

 are not at disposal, any of these roses 

 can be wintered successfully by dig- 

 ging trenches on land with a good 

 slope, where water can not stand, and 

 burying the plants entirely, doing the 

 work just before freezing weather. 

 . C.W. 



PUBLICATIONS BECEIVED. 



["ChrysantheinaniB and How to Grow Them, m 

 Garden Plants for Outdoor Bloom and for Out 

 Flowerg Under Glass," by I. L. Powell. Double- 

 day, Page & Co., New York. Size, 6%x8 inches; 

 201 pages; thirty-one full-page halftone Illustra- 

 tions. Price, net, $1.10; postage, 10 cents.] 



"Chrysanthemums and How to Grow 

 Them," by I. L. Powell, is one of two 

 books that have just been published 

 a ^'additions to the series of volumes 

 entitled the Garden Library. 



In ,any attempt to form an opinion 

 of a book of this sort — a handbook or 

 manual, for daily guidance in some one 

 of life's industries — the first question 

 that arises, and demands an answer is: 

 "Does the author possess a practical 

 knowledge of the subject, a knowledge 

 derived largely from personal experi- 

 ence, or is he a mere spinner of theo- 

 ries?" In this case the author is so 

 widely known among florists that, as 

 chairmen of public meetings are wont 

 to say, he needs no introduction. He 

 is head gardener on the estate of Sam- 

 uel Thorne, at Millbrook, N. Y. He 

 is a member of the Chrysanthemum So- 

 ciety of America and also of the So- 

 ciety 0f American Florists. And he 

 has skill in writing as well ^s in chrys- 

 anthemum growing; the language of 

 his book is clear and pointed. 



A few of the chapter titles might 

 be mentioned, as giving some idea of 

 the helpful character of the book. On 

 picking up the volume, the reader be- 

 gins, as is befitting, with "Points for 

 the Beginner," and advances through 

 "Preparing the Soil and Propaga- 

 tion," "The Science and Practice 

 of Feeding," "Growing Exhibition 

 Blooms," "Growing for Commercial 

 Purposes," etc., until he ends with 





