AUQDST 15, 1912. 



The Florists^ Review 



41 



PBOPAGATINa. 



While it would be the height of folly 

 to start any general propagation of ge- 

 raniums in the warmer states, in some 

 of the more northerly ones frost occurs 

 as early as the end of August and there 

 it is necessary to take cuttings during 

 the present month. Opinions differ as 

 to the best method of propagation. The 

 writer has seen large batches rooted in 

 flats outdoors exposed to the elements, 

 and others have equally good results by 

 keeping them under glass. I always ad- 

 vise letting the cuttings lie on the bench 

 a few hours before placing them in the 

 sand or soil, as the danger of damping 

 off is thus considerably reduced. Shade 

 is not necessary for the rooting of ge- 

 raniums unless there should be a spell 

 of intense heat, when a light covering 

 may be necessary. As the cuttings 

 grown outdoors contain a great deal 

 more sap than such as are produced 

 under glass, it is well to water carefully 

 for a time to prevent damping off. 

 There is, of course, far less danger of 

 this, happening with the cuttings placed 

 in clear sand than in sandy loam. Last 

 year 'I tried charcoal passed through a 

 fine screen and freely mixed with the 

 sand, and this seems to make an ideal 

 rooting medium, reducing at the same 

 time the likelihood of any damping off. 



SCENTED GERANIUMS. 



Shoots of the scented geraniums are 

 a common feature in the large markets 

 nowadays and in order to have them of 

 good length, some plants should always 

 be carried over summer in pots out- 

 doors. Where this has not been done, 

 if cuttings are put in at once they can 

 be grown along and will give some nice 

 shoots for cutting toward spring. The 

 cuttings will root readily in flats in a 

 coldframe and should be potted off as 

 soon as rooted. 



WINTEE-PLOWERINO GERANIUMS. 



A recent query received was, ' ' Where 

 should I grow my winter-blooming ge- 

 raniums during the summer, outdoors or 

 under glass!" While there are some 

 who claim to have better results by 

 keeping the pots outdoors during the 

 hottest months, I have seen some 

 batches badly attacked by bacteria 

 when this had been done. With plants 

 kept constantly under glass, no disease 

 has appeared, to my personal knowl- 

 edge, and the plants flower just as 

 freely as if they had been kept outside 

 during the hot months. Some pinching 

 "»ay be necessary until the middle of 

 September to make the plants neat and 

 bushy. In giving the last shift, some 

 well decayed cow manure or a little 

 spent mushroom manure may be added 

 to the soil, also some fine bone. Do not, 

 However, make it too rich, as that 

 means a soft growth which always flow- 

 u® ,P°orty. Pot firmly always; this in 

 Itself helps to promote a hard and 



shorter-jointed growth. Spread the 

 plants out occasionally. Keep all flower 

 trusses and dead leaves removed and 

 scratch over the surface soil if it shows 

 any signs of " scumminess. " 



USE FOR CHARCOAL. 



We have a way of getting all the 

 fine charcoal we want and would like 

 to know the different ways we can use 

 it to the best advantage. S. B. 



Fine charcoal is useful for mixing 

 in soil for such plants as cyclamens, 

 primulas, begonias, gloxinias, calceola- 

 rias and others of a soft-wooded na- 

 ture. It may also be used to advan- 

 tage in compost for palms and ferns. 

 It holds and gives oiit moisture and 

 helps to keep the soil pure and sweet. 



It may also be advantageously used in 

 propagating benches when mixed with 

 the sand. It prevents fungous growth 

 from appearing. In a lumpy state it 

 may be used in compost for orchids, 

 gardenias, eucharis, pancratium«>- ama- 

 ryllis, nerines and many stove plants 

 requiring rather porous soil. It may 

 be freely used in soil for hyaciatiis, 

 tulips, narcissi, freesias and other 

 bulbs. C. W. 



PLANTS FOR AMERICAN FLAG. 



Kindly let me know the best plants 

 to use for an American flag bed about 

 four feet six inches high, red, white 

 and blue. We are going to put a flag 

 in front of our home next spring for 

 advertising. D. & F. 



For red, use Alternathera brillian- 

 tissima. This is better than A. parony- 

 chioidcs major, which grows rather too 

 robustly. In white-foliaged plants, 

 Santolina maritima, if well sheared, is 

 satisfactory. Alyssum Little Gem is 

 frequently used, while Echeveria se- 

 cunda glauca will grow well in dry 

 locations and can always be depended 

 upon. Blue plants are limited in num- 

 bers. One of the lobelias, such as 

 Emperor William, single, or Kathleen 

 Mallard, double, would be the best for 

 your purpose. 0. W. 



KEEPING THE STEMS LONG. 



Why is it that the sweet pea stems 

 gradually get shorter after the first 

 crop, when liquid manure is fed regu- 

 larly! W. S. S. 



In order to have stems of good length 

 throughout the season, it is necessary 

 not only to feed with liquid manure, but 

 also to apply top-dressings of fine bone 

 or pulverized sheep manure. After ap- 

 plying a top-dressing, loosen the surface 

 with a digging fork or hoe before water- 

 ing. It is not possible to have long 

 stems the entire season through, but a 

 proper temperature and judicious feed- 

 ing will much improve them. C. W. 



SOIL FOR WINTER SWEET PEAS. 



What is the proper method of prepar- 

 ing the soil in solid beds for growing 

 winter-flowering sweet peas! 



W. S. S. 



Good drainage is essential. Provide 

 this by using a good layer of stones, so 

 that water will pass away freely. The 

 best soil is a medium heavy pasture 

 loam, well enriched with cow manure. 

 I also like to add some bone meal. If 

 your loam is heavy and retentive, horse 

 manure should be used, but cow manure 

 seems to suit sweet peas better than 

 any other. Now, as to depth, you can 

 grow good peas in eight inches of soil, 



you make it eighteen inches there 

 be no need to change the soil each 

 year. If given a liberal coating of cow 

 manure and well trenched over before 

 planting, the sweet peas will do well in 

 it year after year, as specialists have 

 proved. Considerable is heard of the 

 ground becoming "sweet pea sick.'* If 

 one crop is continuously grown in the 

 same soil year after year, this is likely 

 to occur, but if you follow your sweet 

 peas with early and midseason chrysan- 

 themums, tomatoes or cucumbers, all of 

 which can be cleared by the last part of 

 October, you will find that the change 

 of crops puts the soil in an excellent 

 condition for the next sweet pea crop. 

 You can start your seed in flats or pots 

 in another house and have them ready 

 to plant when other crops are cleared 

 and beds prepared. C. W. 



SWEET PEAS IN MUM HOUSE. 



Can sweet peas be grown successfully 

 in a mum house, run at 45 to 50 degrees, 

 night temperature! W. S. S. 



Sweet peas will grow well in a house 

 run at 45 to 50 degrees at night. Main- 

 tain the lower temperature until the 

 flowering stage is reached, after which 

 hold the night readings as near 48 to 50 

 degrees as possible, with a rise of 5 to 

 8 degrees on dull days and 10 to 15 de- 

 grees on sunny days. C. W. 



