Mlil»iPI"«JlM(. ^.,H.^H.J«y!,.flfffM«Wf5^»«W!55' 



IS 



ijT 



The Florists' Review 



OCIOBBB 3, 1912, 



~ 1 



\ 

 I 



i 



BP 



ac 



ac 



f SEASONABLE 'j»^ 



i ^ SUGGESTIONS \ 



2> ^ 



» 

 • 



Lilies. 



Just as soon as the multifloruin and 

 giganteum forms of Lilium longiflorum 

 arrive, pot them and place in a shed. 

 «;eliar, frame, or under a greenhouse 

 bench,, where a temperature of 50 de- 

 grees at night is maintained. Kemem- 

 ber that Easter, 1913, comes extreniely 

 early and unless a brisk heat is at coni- 

 uiand for the plants once they are fairly 

 started into growth, it will not be easy 

 to have them on time. The giganteums 

 love heat from the start and a sure 

 way to spoil them is to stand them 

 when potted in a cool, damp place, one 

 in which Dutch bulbs would revel, but 

 which this lily abominates. The mul- 

 tiflorums will succeed in a lower tem- 

 perature, but do well treated the same 

 as the giganteums. 



If you are growing any of the For- 

 mosa bulbs they should now have 

 growths several inches long, and if you 

 want some early flowers a few plants 

 should be placed in a brisk heat. The 

 J^^ormosa is the cleanest of all the lilies. 

 It flowers somewhat .erratically; some 

 plants wiU be eighteen inches high 

 when in flower; others, under the same 

 treatment, five to six feet. While it 

 will stand forcing, the finest plants are 

 grown in an average night temperature 

 in winter of 50 degrees. For cutting 

 this is far ahead of giganteum or mul- 

 tiflorum, and no florist with any call 

 for lilies, especially in a cut state, can 

 well afford to be without it. 



Canterbury Bells. 



Those invaluable biennials, the Can- 

 terbury bells, can now be lifted and 

 potted where they are wanted for spring 

 flowering. Usually 8-inch pots will 

 hold them, unless of extra size, when 

 10-inch may be necessary. Use a good, 

 Strong soil for them. See that you get 

 a nice ball with each plant, and after 

 potting keep outdoors until frost ar- 

 rives of sufficient severity to threaten 

 breaking the pots. 



Anyone who has once grown Cam- 

 panula Medium in pots for spring trade 

 will never want to be without it again. 

 It makes a superb pot plant and a late 

 batch, which can easily be timed for 

 Memorial day, will be found valuable. 

 The single varieties are superior to the 

 double and hose-in-hose sorts as pot 

 plants, flowers of the two latter being 

 too heavy. Now, if you remembered to 

 sow your Canterbury bells in April or 

 May, all will be strong and bound to 

 flower. However, where sowing was 

 delayed until July, a small proportion 

 only are likely to flower. 



Bambler Boses. 



Keep the canes securely tied up on 

 the rambler roses intended for forcing, 

 so that they may get all possible sun 

 and become thoroughly ripened. The 

 pot-grown plants ripen up the best and 

 these are better if kept drier at the 

 root now, to check the growths and 

 harden up the canes. By the middle of 

 October any of the ramblers which are 



growing in the field can be carefully 

 dug up and potted. After potting, give 

 them the sunniest possible location. Tie 

 up the shoots and spray freely until 

 the plants start to establish themselves 

 in the pots. .... - • ,,. 



Berried Plants^- 



W. W. Wilmore. 



at intervals and located where th,> 

 plants can not get wef feet, will carr • 

 over any of this class of spring plants 

 with practically no loss. Use some well 

 decayed manure in the compost, espe- 

 cially for the painsies. Set the littlo 

 plants moderately close in the rows. 

 Soak well with water and give a light 

 shade during the middle of the day. 

 when the sun is bright. All the pro- 

 tection needed by these plants is a 

 coating of perfectly dry leaves and the 

 sashes then placed over these to keej^ 

 them dry. Wet leaves will soon rot 

 off a host of plants if allowed to stay 

 over them, and if little or no ventila- 

 tion is given. 



:^i ..w •..[., 



The two principal berried plants for 

 Christmas are the solanum, or -Terusa- 

 1am cherry, and the ardisia. There is 

 rarely any trouble in ripening the for- 

 mer before Christmas in any ordinary 

 greenhouse, but the ardisias, unless 

 given a light and sunny bench, are 

 liable to have their berries only half 

 ripened, in which condition they are 

 not salable. As berried plants are lit- 



tle called for except at Christmas, no 

 effort should be spared to have the 

 berries well colored. A high tempera- 

 ture is not to the liking of ardisias; 

 55 degrees at night is better than 5 to 

 10 degrees higher. Christmas peppers 

 also, if they appear at all late, should 

 have a light, moderately warm bench 

 and be freely sprayed on clear days. 



Spring Bedding Plants. 



The various bedding plants used as 

 a groundwork in bulb beds and which 

 have other manifold uses in spring, in- 

 cluding pansies, violas, forget-me-nots, 

 daisies, etc., in the colder states are 

 better wintered in coldframes. Occa- 

 sionally, if left outdoors, they will win- 

 ter well, while other winters will 

 largely decimate them. Frames, if aired 



WTLMOBE OF DENVEB. 



The first published portrait of W. W. 

 Wilmore, the Denver dahlia grower, ap- 

 pears on this page. Mr. Wilmore is a 

 modest gentleman and he has not had 

 his picture taken in years and years — 

 except this snapshot caught by a ko- 

 daker in the Wilmore fields, about a 

 mile west of the Denver city limits. 

 Mr. Wilmore makes his home in a pret- 

 ty bungalow in the midst of his irrigated 

 dahlia fields, 5,000 feet above sea level. 

 He has grown the flower twenty-six 

 years and of late has raised countless 

 seedlings. Among those he has named 

 and introduced are: Manitou, brought 

 out in 1908, a flower of immense size, a 

 specimen being fully seven inches in 

 diameter, of an amber bronze color 

 with a pinkish shade; The Baron, a 

 pale yellow show dahlia with white 

 tips; Portola, a pale pink show dahlia, 

 margined with clear orange bands; 

 Ventura, a yellow shading to light 

 orange, with rather short stems; Gold 

 of Ophir, a large decorative flower of 

 strong yellow color; Mrs. Winters, a 

 superb white decorative flower, well and 

 widely known; Gypsy Maid, cactus, with 

 long, orange scarlet, pointed petals; 

 Annie Moore, cherry and white; Bon 

 Ton, and White Century, a single flower 

 like a giant daisy. 



DAHT.TAS; BY A SPECIALIST. 



[A paper by W. F. Fletcher, of De« Moines, 

 read before the Society of Iowa Florists at 

 lt8 recent convention.] 



It has been my great pleasure to de- 

 vote much of my time during the last 

 few years to the culture of the dahlia, 

 the most beautiful of the autumn flow- 

 ers, yet I find there is so much I have 

 not learned about this, my favorite 

 flower, that I hardly feel qualified to 

 point the way for others. 



While I feel strongly tempted to 

 dwell on the history of the develop- 

 ment of the dahlia, I believe what we 

 as florists are most interested in is the 

 most profitable varieties to grow and 

 the better methods of caring for them, 

 including propagation, soil, culture, 

 pests, cutting, digging and storing. 



Varieties for Profit. 



There are so many varieties listed 

 by the growers of this country and 

 Europe that any choice is naturally a 

 matter of personal preference. We find 

 from experience that it is more profit- 

 able to grow only a few varieties of 

 the various types, instead of a large 

 list. The cactus, decorative and peony- 

 flowered types are the most salable, 

 though a few of the show type are in 

 demand. My choice of varieties of 

 the various types includes the follow- 

 ing: 



[Oonttnueil on pass 82.7 



.-. ■.,<^....j.i,:»..>l,j... ..^^.,.1 .^. 



