August 25, 1910. 



The Weekly Fbrists' Review. 



15 



Pot these off when big enough to han- 

 dle. Grow along on a light bench, and 

 by the middle of November you will 

 have fine, stocky little plants to plant 

 out. 



Annual Lupines. 



Lupines are still a good deal of a 

 novelty in winter and early spring, in 

 the markets. They are a welcome addi- 

 tion to the everyday florists' flowers 

 and are eagerly sought for by the up- 

 to-date store florists. Lupines require 

 a cool house, 45 to 50 degrees at night. 

 They can be flowered in deep boxes or 

 benches. The latter give more root 

 run and better spikes. The seed should 

 be sown in rows eighteen inches apart, 

 rather thinly. They soon germinate 

 and should be grown as cool and airy 

 as possible in the early stages of 

 growth. A pink variety that is adver- 

 tised a good deal, and sometimes sold 

 as hybridus roseus, makes an excellent 

 forcing variety and will easily bloom 

 for Christmas if sown by the first week 

 in September. L. mutabilis is a charm- 

 ing variety, with larger spikes than the 

 pink variety. The colors are blue and 

 white, and cream and pink. L. Hart- 

 wegii is another beautiful variety, 

 which produces fine spikes under glass. 

 There are pure white and azure blue 

 varieties of this. If a bench is not 

 yet at disposal, start a number of seeds 

 separately in 3-inch pots outdoors and 

 transplant later. 



THE IiOBD & BUBNHAM MODEL. 



At the Rochester convention the 

 Lord & Burnham Co., New York, ex- 

 hibited a model greenhouse, 5x9 feet, 

 so accurately built that every part of 

 the construction was clearly shown. It 



A Complete Greenhouse in Miniature. 



was based on the plan used by the 

 company in the erection of a house for 

 the Kobert Craig Co. at the new plant 

 in Norwood, Pa. As stated in The Re- 

 view's report of the convention, the 

 model embodied every essential item of 

 the construction, including the giant 

 arch with V-shaped truss; also the con- 

 crete walls, with real wrought iron flat 

 posts, carrying the shaft for a side 

 ventilator, the sash being hinged di- 

 rectly to the eave plate. 



SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS. 



Taking the Buds. 



The time of taking the buds is really 

 the most critical time in chrysanthe- 

 mum growing, because if the bud is 

 taken too early it will not give the best 

 results, and if it is taken too late the 

 flowers lack depth, are small, and unsat- 

 isfactory generally. Much has been 

 written on this subject and still the 

 average grower is somewhat befogged 

 when he reads about crown and second 

 crown and terminal buds. 



Older readers of these notes will re- 

 call that I wrote for years trying to 

 elucidate this knotty subject of bud 

 selection, by giving the reader dates 

 after which it was safe to take the bud 

 without worrying whether it was a 

 first or tenth crown. The terms "first 

 and second crown" are misleading, be- 

 cause a. grower who planted his stock 

 in April might have some of his varie- 

 ties showing three crown buds by the 

 first week in August and it might still 

 be too early to take the bud witn 

 safety, while another grower who might 

 be handling stock rooted in May or 

 early June, and not getting a first 

 CTown to show before August 20, could 

 tike it wit^h perfect safety. For most 



exhibition varieties, and a great many 

 of the commercial kinds also, we have 

 for years set our date around August 

 20, as the earliest time to take the 

 buds. 



Some varieties, such as Mrs. D. V. 

 West, F. S. Vallis and the old Mme. 

 Carnot, can be safely taken any time 

 after August 1, while Col. Appleton and 

 some of the pink varieties are better on 

 a bud early in September. 



I do not refer in these notes to the 

 specially early varieties, such as Golden 

 Glow, which is perhaps even now in 

 flower, or Monrovia, which has buds 

 just commencing to show color; nor do 

 i refer to the very late varieties, such 

 as Jeanne Nonin, W. H. Chadwick, W. 

 R. Brock or others, which should be 

 taken on late buds and as late as pos- 

 sible, but I am referring to the greater 

 bulk of exhibition varieties, which is 

 what the average grower is handling. 



It is, of course, impossible for a 

 grower with a large batch of plants to 

 get all the varieties ready to take the 

 bud just when one wants, and in^ such 

 a case they should be taken as soon as 

 possible after the date given. 



Crown or Terminal Buds. 



Those who have not been accustomed 

 to handling the crown bud will look at 



it and then rub it off because they do 

 not see any small buds around it. A 

 true crown bud only has growth shoots 

 around it, and if any or all of these 

 shoots are carried on instead of being 

 pinched off, they will eventually pro- 

 duce other buds at the terminus of their 

 growth. These later buds have nothing 

 but small buds around them, and that 

 is the meaning of the term, *' crown or 

 terminal buds." 



As a general rule, the commercial 

 florist feels safer with a terminal bud, 

 but he loses many dollars and consider 

 able credit for his growing skill by not 

 studying the crown bud and knowing 

 "where he is at." If crown buds are 

 showing a little too early they can be 

 held somewhat stationary for a week or 

 more, by permitting the surrounding 

 growth shoots to make one leaf and 

 then pinching them. This will act as 

 a safety valve for the flow of sap, and 

 the bud, when the shoots are finally re- 

 moved, seems to . come away without 

 any trouble. 



In some sections of the country the 

 growers can handle an earlier bud than 

 in others. This is particularly true in 

 the mountainous sections and the most 

 northerly part of the country, the cooler 

 nights evidently being what the bud re- 

 quires for its final development. 



Growers in the extreme south may 

 not have any success with a crown bud 

 as early as August 20, although recent 

 letters from Missouri and Mississippi 

 indicate that it is the best time for the 

 growth as far south as that section. 



The systematic grower will always 

 have a notebook and, when he is han- 

 dling new varieties or experimenting, 

 he will mark the plants and enter the 

 record in the notebook, leaving room for 

 the final result to be marked alongside. 

 This record will be of the greatest 

 value from year to year, as few of us 

 are blessed with memories sufficiently 

 long to keep track of such small details, 

 and it is just these details that make 

 success or possible failure. 



Charles H. Totty. 



We sold out quick. The Review cer- 

 tainly is a great advertising medium. — 

 W. C. Rockwell, Bradford, Pa. 



