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Decbmber 7, 1911. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review. 



21 



Table Decoration of Sioele Chryianthemums by the E. Wienboeber Co., Chicago. 



BT7LBS FOB EASTEB. 



Will it be too late, the second week 

 in December, to put in hyacinth, tulip, 

 narcissus and Easter lily bulbs for 

 Easter sales f How deep should the 

 bulbs be potted? Would it be all right 

 to put them out in a coldframe and 

 cover with ashes and then put boards 

 over the frame? I have no sashes. How 

 deep should the ashes be over the top 

 of the pots? Or could I put the pots 

 of bulbs in a cellar, and would the 

 treatment be the same there? 



G. C. H. 



It is getting late to pot up bulbs of 

 any kind for Easter flowering and with 

 the Dutch bulbs especially you will 

 not get so good results as if the bulbs 

 had been potted or boxed in October. 

 Use a compost of three parts well de- 

 cayed fibrous loam, one part old cow 

 or horse manure and plenty of sharp 

 sand for the tulips, hyacinths and nar- 

 cissi, and less manure for the Easter 

 lilies. Merely cover the hyacinth bulbs, 

 but the tulips and narcissi should be 

 potted a little deeper. Soak thoroughly 

 with water before placing in the frame 

 or cellar. They can be kept in a cold- 

 frame by covering with six inches of 

 fine ashes and over these a bed of 

 straw and matched boards in lieu of 

 sashes, but a cellar would be far pref- 

 erable if there is no furnace heat near 

 them, as they can be more readily ex- 

 amined and watered when necessary. 

 Cover with ashes three inches thick in 

 the cellar. They must not be housed 

 until*the pots are full of roots and the 

 tips are two to three inches long. 



In potting the Easter lilies use single 

 bulbs to 5-inch or 6-inch pots, accord- 



ing to size. Barely covet the bulb 

 and leave ample space for filling in 

 with loam above it. After potting, pre- 

 suming that you have longiflorums or 

 multiflorums, stand in a shed or under 

 a greenhouse bench in a temperature 

 of 55 degrees at night. Water moder- 

 ately until the pots are full of roots; 

 then place in a night temperature of 65 

 degrees in order to get them for Easter, 

 which comes April 7 next year. 



C. W. 



WOBMS DESTBOYING VIOLETS. 



I am growing violets and this year 

 have lost a great many plants through 

 white, red-headed worms. Could you 

 inform me of any means of destroying 

 them? J. H. 



I am not acquainted with the worm 

 referred to. This and all other worms, 

 grubs, etc., infesting the soil, are most 

 easily destroyed by the use of carbon 

 bisulphide. This will not harm the 



plants. Make holes twelve to eighteen 

 inches apart each way and pour a small 

 teaspoonful of the carbon in each hole, 

 immediately covering it. Go all over 

 your beds this way and you are sure 

 to clean out anything in the worm line 

 in the soil. This is best done when the 

 soil is quite damp. Do not use any 

 naked lights while using the carbon, as 

 it is of an explosive nature. For worms 

 eating the foliage a poison spray is 

 necessary. Arsenate of lead is effect- 

 ive and safe, but would whiten the 

 leaves and render them unfit to use. 

 Paris green, at the rate of one "ounce 

 to fifteen gallons of water, will not hurt 

 the leaves. Use a little lime with it, to 

 help prevent burning. C. W. 



GAS ON VIOLETS. 



I have a house 20 x 66 feet, with an 

 average height of six feet, covered 

 with hotbed sashes, which was planted 

 to single violets in August. During 

 the hot weather following they became 

 infested with red spider. The sashes 

 were not put on the house until the first 

 part of November, after one hard 

 freeze, thinking this would eradicate 

 the red spider, but it has not entirely 

 done so. The violets are in ground 

 beds; all heating pipes overhead. Can 

 I get rid of the red spider by the use 

 of cyanide gas and what proportion 

 can I use with safety to the violets? 

 W. D. H. 



I have not dared to use gas on vio- 

 lets, but the Ehinebeck growers use it 

 almost entirely. I would prefer E. E, 

 Shuphelt or some other specialist should 

 answer this. Our local specialists here 

 never use gas. C. W. 



