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14 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



Ja.nl'auv 25, un-2. 



STBONO-STEMMED MUMS. 



Is there any method of growing chrys- 

 anthemums in greenhouses by which 

 stiff, strong stems can be secured? All 

 the mums seen in this part of Utah, ex- 

 cept the ones we grow, are shipped in 

 from California and, of course, are out- 

 door-grown. V. A. A. 



Chrysanthemums grown in light, well 

 ventilated houses have excellent stems, 

 and will always be far superior in qual- 

 ity to the outdoor stock referred to. 

 Cuttings taken from the middle of 

 April until the end of May will give 

 plants which will produce fine flowers. 

 Benching should be done not later than 

 the end of July, and a month earlier is 

 better. There are some varieties which 

 are naturally weak necked, but there 

 are dozens of splendid sorts with rigid 

 stems. Do not let your plants become 

 too potbound before benching them. 

 Give them a reasonable space to grow 

 in, and good soil. Soil containing three 

 parts fibrous loam, one part rotted cow 

 manure and some fine bone is suitable. 

 Spray freely during the hot weather. 

 Never mind how hot the day may be; 

 the plants are refreshed by waterings 

 overhead and frequent dampings of the 

 floors. Gradually decrease the syring- 

 ings as cool weather advances. Never 

 grow your mums warm; they want 

 abundant ventilation on every possible 

 occasion and there are really no days 

 in your latitude when the ventilators 

 need be closed. C. W. 



YELLOW SPOBT OF BYEON. 



I grew fifty plants of Alice Byron 

 and this fall I had a sport from it. 

 The sport came from the bottom of 

 the plant and I let it grow because it 

 was so strong. When it came in bloom 

 it was pure yellow. It grew four feet 

 high and the flower was a little larger 

 than Major Bonnaffon. The shape of 

 the flower is the same as President 

 Taft. I would like to have your ad- 

 vice what to do with it. Let me know 

 through your paper if this mum is a 

 new one. If so, state how I can get it 

 established. J. G. 



I do not know of a yellow sport from 

 Alice Byron, but it is entirely within 

 the bounds of possibility for one to 

 come. J. G. should propagate all the 

 plants he can from this particular 

 variety, and after another year he may 

 have enough blooms to exhibit this 

 sport before a committee of the 

 Chrysanthemum Society, who are ex- 

 pert growers and in a position to tell 

 him whether it is a genuine sport of 

 Byron or something else that might 

 have been inadvertently mixed with 

 this variety. C. H. T. 



FELTHOUSEN'S STAET. 



At Schenectady, N. Y., E. V. B. Felt- 

 housen has the commencement of an 

 extensive new range in two Lord & 

 Bumham houses, one 20x170 and one 

 30x170, planted August 1 with chrysan- 

 themums in solid beds, from which a 



cut of 9,300 blooms were marketed. 

 The houses are connected with a pot- 

 ting shed. One house is shown in the 

 accompanying picture. The range on 

 the old location will eventually be 

 torn down and removed to the new 

 place farther out, where there is plenty 

 of room, excellent soil and a good wa- 

 ter supply. In addition to being a 

 thorough craftsman, Mr. Felthousen 

 has held a responsible position in the 

 city (post-oflice for a quarter of a 

 century. M. 



CHBYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. 



C. W. Johnson, secretary of the 

 Chrysanthemum Society of America, 

 supplies a tabulated copy of the work 

 of the examining committees for 1911, 

 which has been published in The Re- 

 view from week to week during the 

 season, and the following announce- 

 ments: President Charles H. Totty has 

 appointed the following gentlemen to 

 serve as the executive committee: 

 Elmer D. Smith, Adritn, Mich.; David 

 F. Roy, Marion, Mass.; William Turner, 

 Oceanic, N. J. 



Elmer D. Smith & Co. offer for the 

 Chrysanthemum Society 's exhibition 

 for 1912, for the best twelve blooms 

 of Chrysanthemum Manhattan shown 

 in one vase, on long stems, a first prize 

 of $15 and a second prize of $10, open 

 to private gardeners only. 



inferior ones. I am sending a sample 

 of the dried b"uds and the inferior flow- 

 ers. There are 526 in pots now, and 

 the pots are full of fresh roots. The 

 soil I used in which to grow them 

 consists of a mixture of three bushels 

 of loam, one bushel of rotted manure, 

 one bushel of leaf soil, one-half bushel 

 of peat, plenty of fine charcoal and 

 enough sand to make it porous. Kindly 

 let me know it I should grow the plants 

 in partial shade all of the time or only 

 through the summer. I put them in 

 the house from the frames the last 

 part of September in a temperature of 

 52 to 55 degrees, and some I have in a 

 house at a temperature of 60 to 65 de- 

 grees at night. J. W. 0. 



CYCLAMEN MITE. 



Will you kindly advise me what is 

 the matter with my cyclamens! They 

 have formed nice plants, but they are 

 not flowering as they should. They 

 have had lots of buds, but when they 

 were about one inch long they dried up, 

 and what buds did make flowers were 



Your compost was just what cycla- 

 mens like, with the possible omission 

 of the peat. Your treatment also seems 

 to have been correct. You have been 

 unfortunate enough to have had a bad 

 attack of cyclamen mite. This causes 

 the leaves to become somewhat de- 

 formed, but practically all flowers are 

 useless, as you describe yours as being. 

 Many good growers, who have given 

 their plants every care and possible at- 

 tention, have had plants ruined as yours 

 are. No remedy for this mite is known. 

 I have used about every known insec- 

 ticide on affected plants, without result. 

 Some growers claim good results from 

 the free use of tobacco dust, but I 

 h$ive been unable to get much comfort 

 from it. All you can do is to throw 

 away every plant and start afresh. It 

 is no use carrying them over, as the 

 probability is that they would be just 

 as bad another season. 



The plants while in coldframes need 

 protection from the sun's rays all 

 through the hot months. In hot weather 

 the sashes are better only used in case 

 of drenching rains, lath shadings being 

 used above the plants, the shades being 

 elevated above the plants six to eight 

 inches. Gradually reduce the shade as 

 summer declines. Reverse sashes at 

 night and on cloudy days. After being 

 taken into the greenhouse, little or no 

 shade should be needed. C. W. 



Chrysanthemum House of E. V. B. Felthousen, Schenectady, N. Y. 



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