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16 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



KEBRUARt 16, 1912. 



Next take a piece of ^-inch pipe and 

 cut a thread on one end long enough 

 sit. that the pipe can be screwed through 

 the bushing from the inside, and pro- 

 ject far enough outside so that an el- 

 bow can be screwed onto the threaded 

 pa*djecting end. This small pipe is for 

 oil. 

 ■ After getting the- ^4 ■ inch pipe 

 threaded and through the bushing, a 

 careful measurement should be made, 

 aibd the pipe should be cut to such a 

 length that whmi therbushing in which 

 it is fastened is screwed into the %-inch 

 tee the y^-ineh pipe will pass through 

 the tee and the %-inch pipe and just 

 come flush with the outside of the cap 

 on the nozzle end of the %-inch pipe. 

 This end of the small pipe would best 

 be cut with a hack saw; or, if cut with 

 a roller cutter, the end of the pipe 

 should be reamed out jUBt-^©nough to 

 remove the burred or crimped-in edge 

 of the pipe, and the outsixlfe should be 

 filed down smoothly and evenly all 

 around and made small enough so that 

 where it comes through the %-inch cap 

 there will be a small space all around 

 about the thickness of the point of a 

 knife blade. This space is for the es- 

 cape of steam from the %-inch pipe, 

 which thus acts as a steam jacket to 

 the %-inch pipe which conducts the oil. 



About six or eight inches from the 

 nozzle end of the burner three small 

 holes should be drilled, an equal dis- 

 tance apart, around the %-inch pipe. 

 These holes should be threaded and 

 small screw bolts or set screws set in, 



openings with brick, leaving an open- 

 ing about two and a half inches square, 

 near the center, for the introduction 

 of the burner. 



Before closing the fire-door opening 

 the grates should be covered with some 

 pieces of sheet iron, and on top of the 

 sheet iron should be placed a few inches 

 of ashes. Leave a space uncovered at 

 the front edge, about six inches square, 

 to supply air to the fire. These open- 

 ings should be as nearly as possible 

 directly under the nozzle end of the 

 burner, which should project into the 

 furnace or firebox far enough to come 

 well over the front edge of the grate. 



In setting the burners I think it well 

 to pitch them slightly toward the cen- 

 ter. This relieves the side walls of the 

 furnace, and in case only one burner 

 is being used, which often happens, the 

 flame is better located. 



Connecting the Burners for Steam. 



In connecting up the burners we run 

 a i^-inch pipe from the dome of the 

 boiler to the front and down one side 

 of the front of the boiler to a point 

 on a level just below the flue doors, 

 putting in a valve at a convenient 

 height on this vertical section and 

 screwing a tee vertically onto the lower 

 end. Put a drain cock into the lower 

 end of this tee, to drain the condensa- 

 tion from the feed pipe before starting 

 the fire. 



Into the side of this tee -connect a 

 line of pif>e, running across the front 

 of the boiler above the fire-door open- 



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W. H. Gulp's Sketch of the Oil Burner He Uses. 



projecting through and centering upon 

 the %-ineh pipe, thus gripping it and 

 adjusting its position to an exact cen- 

 ter in passing through the cap at the 

 nozzle of the burner. 



Setting the Burners. 



The burner is now completed and 

 only needs to be properly connected to 

 begin its service. As previously stated, 

 it is best on most boilers to provide a 

 pair of these burners, although in small 

 boilers, as well as in those of medium 

 size, of the firebox type and with one 

 furnace door, one burner w^ould prob- 

 ably do the work satisfactorily. 



Remove the doors and close up the 



ings and connecting by means of tees 

 and nipples with each burner. Each 

 connection should have its own valve 

 and a union between the valve and the 

 burner. 



Connecting for Oil. 



The oil should come from a feed tank 

 so set that gravity will run the oil to 

 the burners; a height of four or five 

 feet above the burners will do. A 

 %-inch or %-inch pipe will do for the 

 main feed pipe, which should branch 

 to '4-'nch when near the burners. This 

 main feed pipe should have a stop cock, 

 and in addition there should be a 

 1/4-inch valve for regulating the flow 



of oil to each burner, with a union be- 

 tween valve and burner. These oil feed 

 pipes connect to the 14-inch elbows on 

 the back of the burners. 



Setting the Feed Tank. 



The feed tank may well be of gal- 

 vanized iron, about 24-gauge and large 

 enough to hold 100 gallons or a little 

 more. It should be set where it will 

 not get very cold; somewhere in the 

 potting shed, overhead and near a 

 steam pipe is a good place. The feed 

 pipe should come from the side, about 

 one inch from the bottom, and a drain 

 cock should be set in below the feel 

 pipe outlet, to drain off any water 

 which may possibly accumulate in the 

 tank. 



The oil is pumped by a common tank 

 hand pump from the oil reservoir into 

 the feed tank. Our reservoir is made 

 like a cistern and walled with cement, 

 and is below the floor of one of oui 

 sheds. 



Operating the Burners. 



These burners, like all burners which 

 use steam for vaporizing, will not work 

 unless there is some steam for them to 

 use. Therefore, after the boiler is once 

 steamed up, it is well not to let the 

 steam pressure get below five or ten 

 pounds, unless another boiler is steamed 

 up and may be called upon for a sup- 

 ply of steam to the burners; or a small 

 auxiliary boiler can be used for a sup- 

 ply of steam till the steam in the main 

 boiler is up. 



When we close down our fires in the 

 morning, which we usually do if the 

 sun is shining and the weather will 

 permit, we cut oflf the steam from the 

 houses as soon as the boiler pressure 

 gets down to about ten pounds. We 

 close all drafts and dampers in the 

 chimney and hold the heat in the fur- 

 nace and boiler all day easily, and the 

 steam pressure will stay around the 

 10-pound mark till time to fire up in 

 the evening. 



When we start the fire we usually 

 run the pressure to the 20-pound mark 

 or higher before turning the steam into 

 the houses. We do this because we find 

 the burners work better at twenty or 

 twenty-five pounds than at a lower pres- 

 sure. At the higher pressure the steam 

 is hotter and will more perfectly vapor- 

 ize and atomize the oil. 



The Trick of Firing. 



One of the great secrets of success 

 with this burner is its adaptability. 

 The hotter the fire you need, the hotter 

 and higher the steam pressure you can 

 carry. On some cold nights we carried 

 thirty pounds and got results in the 

 firebox that would be almost impossible 

 with coal. 



The burners should supply an almost 

 white-hot flame, with no smoke, and 

 the quantity of oil and steam should 

 be so proportioned that enough steam 

 is used to vaporize and atomize the oil 

 properly without sufficient excess to act 

 as an extinguisher to the flame. 



A low lattice wall of fire-brick across 

 the furnace, about three feet from the 

 nozzle of the burner, is a good thing. 

 It steadies the flame and also spreads 

 it. These brick become extremely hot 

 and their presence is a benefit in aid- 

 ing the perfect combustion of the oil. 

 Our lattice wall fell down after a few 

 weeks and the top of the rough pile of 

 fire-brick in the furnace seems to serve 

 the same purpose. W. H. Gulp. 





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