MAncH 5, 1914. 



4-tiiiMim 



The Florists' Review 



21 



will work untold destruction. Fumiga- 

 tion will destroy some, but cutting out 

 affected growths as soon as noted is 

 the surest, though most radical remedy. 

 Do not keep the cattleya house too 

 warm; 55 to 58 degrees at night is suffi- 

 cient. Except during severe weather, 

 some ventilation may remain on all 

 night, for eattleyas, above all orchids, 

 love fresh air. 



Dendrobiums. 



At this season dendrobiums make a 

 splendid show, which in variety far 

 surpasses the eattleyas. D. nobile and 

 its many forms, Wardianum, Ains- 

 worthii, Cybele, chrysodiscus, splendid- 

 issimum grandiflorum, euosmum, Juno, 

 and many other charming hybrids are 

 now at their best. Practically all these 

 dendrobes are of easy culture and no 

 commercial florist need be afraid of 

 them. In repotting be careful not to 

 use too large receptacles; small pots, 

 pans or baskets grow the best plants. 

 Use some sphagnum moss in the fern 

 fiber. Any growths which have started 

 from nodes on the old pseudo-bulbs 

 should be cut off and placed six or 

 eight together in 5-inch or 6-inch pans. 

 They will make splendid plants in a 

 couple of seasons. D. nobile and many 

 hybrids can be propagated by cutting 

 up the bulbs, which have flowered, into 

 pieces, laying them on shallow flats of 

 moss and spraying occasionally. After 

 roots and young growths are nicely 

 started they can be put several together 

 in small pots or pans, and be kept in 

 a warm, moist atmosphere, such as all 

 this family of dendrobes revel in dur- 

 ing the growing season. 



SNAPDRAGON TURNING YELLOW. 



Enclosed you will find a snapdragon 

 plant with the edges of the leaves 

 turned yellow. A number of my plants 

 are affected this way and I am at a loss 

 to know what the trouble is. If you 

 can tell me the cause and remedy for 

 it, the advice will be much appreciated. 

 ^ E. L. 



The foliage has a scorched appear- 

 ance. Snapdragons will not stand any 

 heavy fumigation. Hydrocyanic acid 

 gas, tobacco stems, or almost any of 

 the tobacco extracts will scorch the 

 foliage in this way. You must fumi- 

 gate moderately where they are. Some- 

 times defective glass will focus the 

 sun's rays and cause spots on the foli- 

 age. If the edges of the leaves were 

 really yellow, and not brown, denoting 

 an absence of chlorophyl in them, you 

 should give the plants an application 

 of some fertilizer such as soot, or Bon 

 Arbor, either as a surface dressing or 

 in liquid form. This will quickly im- 

 prove the foliage. C. W. 



FOOD FOR CINERARIAS. 



I have a good sized batch of cinera- 

 rias, most of which are in bud, and a 

 good many are showing color. After 

 they have reached this stage, is there 

 anything with which I can feed them to 

 cause the flowers to develop fully and 

 open more quickly? Of course, it is 

 understood that I do not wish to harm 

 the plants in any way. /It seems to me 

 the flowers develop siMvly, and quite 

 often by the time they are fully in 

 bloom the lower foliage is no longer as 

 pretty as it should be. My plants are 

 looking fine now, and, if I could give 

 them something to bring them into 





Planting Plan for a Pennsylvania Garden. 



bloom more quickly, there would be no 

 trouble in selling them. I shall be 

 grateful for any advice through The 

 Review. J. B. 



The proper time to feed cinerarias, 

 and, in fact, any flowering plants, is 

 before the flowers open. Feeding after 

 the blooms are expanding has a tend- 

 ency to make thefh softer and more 

 flabby, in addition to taking away 

 some of the rich coloring. A weak dose 

 of cow or sheep manure water, with 

 some soft coal soot added, can be given 

 once in four or five days for a short 

 time, but cease feeding as soon as some 

 of the flowers are fully open. Feeding 

 will not make the flowers open more 

 quickly. To have cinerarias of good 

 quality, they must be grown cool all the 

 time; 40 to 45 degrees at night is suf- 

 ficient. Also, keep your plants shaded 

 from direct sunshine. C. W. 



A PLANTING PLAN. 



/ Will you kindly advise me as to the 

 [most attractive way of planting the 

 Vombination of ten flower beds shown 

 in the diagram which I am enclosing? 

 In giving your instructions, please 

 write in the diagram the names of the 

 plants to be used, or refer to the differ- 

 ent beds by number. I shall have at 

 planting time a general stock of good 

 bedding plants, including the follow- 

 ing geraniums: Paul Crampel, 8. A. 

 Nutt, Beautc Poitevine, E. G. Hill, A. 

 Ricard, La Favorite, Mme. Landry, etc. 

 I should like to use some good, short, 

 hardy plants, that are good for cutting 

 also. B. J. P. 



In selecting plants for your beds, I 

 have given the chief consideration to 

 two points, the necessity of using 

 plants which are continuous bloomers 

 and the necessity, also, of choosing 

 colors which will not clash badly. Of 

 course, if the whole planting were con- 

 fined to two colors, such as pink and 

 white, or red and white, or these colors 

 with the addition of yellow, a better 

 harmony could be had than if both red 

 and pink were used. For these reasons 

 I have kept the high colored geraniums 

 at the ends. By short, hardy flowers 

 for cutting, I am uncertain whether 

 you intend merely hardy annuals or 

 the inclusion of perennials; I have as- 



sumed, however, that you meant the 

 former. In referring to the grounds to 

 be planted, I shall designate the beds 

 by the numbers on your diagram, 

 which is here reproduced. I would sug- 

 gest the following plants as suitable 

 for your purpose: 



Bed No. 1 — Canna King Humbert or 

 William Saunders; border of Coleus 

 Golden Bedder. The bed would thus be 

 scarlet, with a yellow border. 



No. 2 — Geranium S. A. Nutt; border 

 of Geranium Mme. Salleroi, making the 

 bed dark red, with a variegated border. 



No. 3— Same as No. '2. 



No. 4 — Geranium La Favorite, white. 



No. 5 — Heliotrope, light variety pre- 

 ferred; border of sweet alyssuin. A 

 pale blue bed, with a white border. 



No. 6 — Center, Canna Florence 

 Vaughan or some other good yellow 

 variety; double row or band of Salvia 

 Bonfire, scarlet; border of Coleus 

 Golden Bedder, yellow. 



No. 7 — Petunias, single white or 

 pink and white; all white would be 

 best. Dot plants of same color of ten 

 weeks ' stocks. 



No. 8 — Verbenas, pink. Dot plants 

 of pink ten weeks' stocks. 



No. 9 — Ageratum, light variety, such 

 as Princess Victoria Louise; border of 

 Alyssum Little Gem, making a pale 

 blue bed, with a white border. 



No. 10 — Geranium Beaute Poitevine, 

 pink; border of Alyssum Little Gem, 

 white. 



If you wish, you can leave out the 

 borderings from all but the two central 

 beds, as beds of one solid color are in 

 excellent taste. The bordering of 

 alyssum is liked by many; so, also, is 

 the bordering of Mme. Salleroi. You 

 could have more variety of plants in 

 the beds, but you will find that you get 

 a far better effect by blocking the 

 colors more. In planting bed No. 6, be 

 sure to keep the plants in straight 

 lines. If the beds numbered from 6 to 

 10, inclusive, had corresponded with 

 the other five, I should have liked them 

 better, but as they are probably al- 

 ready in place, this cannot well be 

 changed. 



By dotting plants I mean to place 

 them rather thinly over the bed. In a 

 bed of pink or red, use white or yellow, 

 and vice versa. Asters, gladioli, an- 

 nual larkspurs and other plants can be 

 used in this wav. C. W. 



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