1 



10 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



OCTOBEB 13, 1910. 



DISEASE IN THE GIOANTEUMS. 



One of the advantages of giganteura 

 lily bulbs for forcing has been their 

 freedom from disease, but that the im- 

 munity is not to be perpetual is shown 

 by the accompanying illustration, which 

 is from a photograph made in Japan 

 July 30 of the present year. This shows 

 a field of giganteums attacked by the 

 plant- louse. Those who are engaged in 

 the import bulb business seek to ex- 

 clude such bulbs from their stock, but 



because they cannot be planted over 

 successfully, the bulbs eventually find 

 their way to the market and later into 

 American greenhouses, where they of 

 course fail to give the results expected. 

 Growers who have thought that all that 

 it was necessary to do was to specify 

 that they were to receive giganteums 

 may find that it will be necessary to 

 take precautions to see that they get 

 the right article. Not only will gigan- 

 teums be short this year, but there will 

 be all sorts of qualities. 



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SEASONABLE 



SUGGESTIONS 



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Iiilium Harrisii. 



To have Lilium Harrisii in flower for 

 the holidaj's, the plants must be pushed 

 right along now. A night temperature 

 of 68 to 70 degrees, with a free use of 

 the hose overhead and a weekly fumiga- 

 tion to keep aphis in check, is what 

 they need. Apply liquid manure twice 

 a week. While we are still enjoying 

 warm and summer-like weather, we 

 must not forget that in November and 

 December the light and solar heat are 

 greatly lessened, and the flower buds to 

 be on time should be so that they can 

 lie counted a month hence. 



Formosa Lilies. 



Formosa lilies do not all start at 

 once, as the Harrisii invariably do. 

 Some may be a foot or more high while 

 others have not pushed through the soil. 

 The earlier ones can be given a house 

 with more heat, say 60 degrees at night. 

 Their flowers will be useful in January, 

 when flowers are generally not over- 

 abundant. These Formosas grow all the 

 way from a foot to six feet high and 

 are quite a variable type. They are, or 

 have been, free from disease. Their 

 flowers are fine and possess excellent 

 texture, rendering them ideal for mar- 

 ket purposes. The number grown will 

 be immensely increased this year, espe- 

 cially in view of the report of serious 

 damage to crops of multiflorums and 

 giganteums in Japan. 



Primulas. 



In order to have plants of Primula 

 obconica and Sinensis in nice flower for 

 ('hristmas, they should now have a tem- 

 jierature of 48 to 50 degrees at night. 

 Anything higher will make them drawn 

 and spindly. If not wanted until later 

 in the winter, the night temperature 

 should not exceed 42 to 4.5 degrees. 

 Quite a few flower spikes will now be 

 pushing on many of the plants, and as 

 there is some sale for pot stock at 

 Thanksgiving, the earliest can be used 

 for that occasion.- Do not crowd the 

 plants. It is a good plan to elevate 

 some on inverted pots, especially the 

 larger ones. Be careful about feeding. 

 Any strong dose will do a lot of harm, 

 which no after care can remedy. Weak 

 cow manure water with some soot in it 

 once a week will keep the foliage that 

 healthy dark green one loves to see. 

 Unless wanted early, the primulas can 



be kept in a well built frame for some 

 weeks longer. It is better to afford 

 them a little shade during the hottest 

 part of the day, the Chinese section 

 needing it more than the obconicas and 

 Kewensis. 



Hydrangeas. 



Any hydrangea plants still in the field 

 should be potted at once. The advan- 

 tage of earlier potting is that the plants 

 have a chance to pretty well fill the pots 

 with roots before winter sets in, and 

 they are thus the better fitted for forc- 

 ing. Established plants in pots and 

 tubs may now have their water supply 

 gradually reduced, in order to harden 

 up the wood and make it of that nutty 

 brown color which is so desirable. 

 Means must be taken to protect the 

 plants from severe frost. If still green 

 and soft, a temperature of 20 to 22 de- 

 grees will blacken the foliage and prob- 

 ably kill many of the flower buds. 



Sambler Boses. 



Crimson Eamblers, and possibly some 

 of the pink varieties, which usually con- 

 tinue to grow later than the older vari- 

 ety, should now be completing their 

 growths, if pot grown, and the water 



supply should be decreased to assist in 

 hardening up the wood; not to the ex- 

 tent of dust dryness, by any means, as 

 this would mean shriveled rather than 

 well hardened wood. The plants should 

 have all possible sun, and to somewhat 

 counteract reduced moisture at the root 

 the plants can have a spraying with the 

 hose once or twice a day. After the 

 middle of the month those with the best 

 ripened wood can be laid on their sides. 

 Soaking rains will have a tendency to 

 keep them soft and growing. It is yet 

 somewhat early to dig up and pot field- 

 grown ramblers. 



Canterbury Bells. 



The present Ts a suitable time to dig 

 up and pot a. number of strong plants 

 of Canterbury bells, giving a preference 

 to the single or calycanthema (hose-in- 

 hose) varieties. Stand the pots outdoors 

 and leave them there until sharp frost 

 necessitates their removal under glass. 

 They should have some frost before 

 forcing, which should not begin before 

 Christmas. If lifted with a good bunch 

 of roots, the plants will show little signs 

 of a check after potting. 



Freesias. 



It is time to place the earliest batch 

 of freesias in a house kept at 50 to 52 

 degrees at night, provided they are 

 wanted for Christmas flowering or the 

 early part of January. Be sure they are 

 well supplied with water, and when the 

 pans are well filled with roots, use weak 

 liquid manure once in four or five days. 

 Avoid strong doses, which will cause 

 the ends of the foliage to become 

 brown, just as fumigation will do. Any 

 bulbs not yet placed in pans or flats 

 should be got in now. They will only 

 dissipate their strength if allowed to 

 remain out of the soil any longer. 



POTTINO GIGANTEUMS. 



When the bulbs of black-stemmed gi 

 ganteums are received in October, should 

 they be potted and left outside for a 

 couple of months, or brought inside at 

 once and placed under carnation benches 

 for a while? B. M. G. C. 



Giganteums and any other lilies, with 

 the exception of candidum, should after 

 potting be placed under sash protection 



Field of Giganteunu in Japan Afiected by Plant Loose. 



